Bedding material for new deck hatch installation ?

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5200 absolutely does offer greater sealant properties - this is the whole point: if it adheres better, it will protects better against water intrusion.

I agree with most of what you are saying, and yes - using 5200 may not be the best approach, or not as good as an epoxy job, it maybe harder to remove etc. That's all true and I believe it.

BUT

If I'm bedding something permanently into fiberglass or wood using sealant, and I want to maximize prevention of water intrusion, I am going to use 5200 rather than anything else (that I know of).

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do not use epoxy to attach plastic ports to FRP
you need a flexible adhesive bond
that said make sure that the surfaces are a tru match before install
you may need to build a bezel to get a good fit
epoxy is good for this but thickened gel coat will work for surface offset under 0.25 inches
use cotton fiber filler I also add some glass microspheres to increase plasticity
 
There is a solved issue for bonding to aluminum.
wet the surface with goo of choice and actively sand the aluminum through the goo the goo will get gray from the aluminum but you will stop the surface of the aluminum from oxidizing
@!#$% Messy but works with caulk and epoxy because you are bonding to the parent material and not the oxide coating
 
fwiw my go to is the white sika flex poly u when it's above the water line . it does not go off in the tube as fast as 5200 and at $5-6 a tube it doesn't really matter. it's great around the house to, dries fairly quickly , some what removable , sticks well IF you prep correctly, remains flexable and it's paintable. below the water line 5200.
 
Name those spots :)
Are you serious?
Anything thru hull, for example water intakes (wake boat ballast).
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Or - trim tabs, when mounted with SS screws because thru-bolting not possible due to lack of access.

If I HAVE TO put any screws into the transom which I would always rather not do - they are going in bedded with 5200.

(not a completel list)

Snaps (into fiberglass) for the two part cover (bow/cockpit) - what else is better than 5200????? I think every boat gets the snaps, sooner or later. The Parker will not, though!

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5200 absolutely does offer greater sealant properties - this is the whole point: if it adheres better, it will protects better against water intrusion.

I agree with most of what you are saying, and yes - using 5200 may not be the best approach, or not as good as an epoxy job, it maybe harder to remove etc. That's all true and I believe it.

BUT

If I'm bedding something permanently into fiberglass or wood using sealant, and I want to maximize prevention of water intrusion, I am going to use 5200 rather than anything else (that I know of).

--
I think you're mistaking sealant properties for adhesive properties. It's a common mistake; but they're two distinct things.

Yes, the sealant has to adhere to both surfaces in order to effectively seal out water. However, beyond basic adhesion, greater adhesive strength doesn't offer any benefit. Whether you have adhesive sealant with 10psi or 500psi of tensile strength, if the two materials being sealed are held together mechanically and the sealant isn't being subjected to any load, the sealant effect is the same; adhered is adhered. Greater adhesive strength simply makes it more difficult to separate the surfaces in the future if need be.

If, on the other hand, the sealant is serving the dual purpose of preventing water intrusion and holding the two surfaces together, then yes, an adhesive sealant such as 5200 is a good choice. Admittedly this is a gray area, because there are cases in which the adhesive sealant can add strength to a mechanically bonded application. In this case the removability of the fitting needs to be weighed against the possible benefit of greater adhesion.

Even the example of through-hull fittings is somewhat debatable. A properly installed through-hull fitting is mechanically fastened to the hull, either by use of a stem nut or a flanged seacock. The sealant exists to prevent water intrusion around the imperfect mating surfaces of the outer/inner hull. In this case, 5200 is still not a bad choice, as the chances of you having to remove that through-hull fitting are probably pretty low, and the strength of the adhesive on the surfaces of the nut/seacock may help to prevent them from working loose. But from a purely sealant standpoint, the mechanical fastening should be carrying the load and therefore the adhesive is not strictly necessary.

At the end of the day, it's important to remember that a lot of this is really academic in nature. These products all perform a similar task, just with varying properties. Provided the materials you're sealing are compatible with the sealant you're using, the surfaces are prepared according to the manufacturer's instructions, and the proper curing times and conditions are observed... you're going to be just fine regardless of the product you're using. The reverse isn't quite as true; if you need an adhesive you need to choose a product that is designed to perform that function. But a LOT of this topic is the maritime equivalent of Ford vs. Ram vs. Chevy, much like any discussion about electronics, outboards, reels, rods, and beer.

Except for silicone. Don't use silicone.
 
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Swatski I work on a Lot of different boats....

I bet you have never had to remove some of those things......
You sir are using the Wrong product......As stated......Those Stainless Thru hulls are mechanically mounted. But you have literately Glued them to the hull now.

You could remove the nut [if you can?] and those would not fall out or leak.

Yes I know All about DeBond.......Debond works IF you can get it to all the product....Not just what you see exposed.

This involves the use of Razor knife, hammer, Putty knife, and I've used a Multimaster tool also. It always screws up surrounding fiberglass......and all this is not necessary if the proper product is used.

Oh and I also have to cut Oak Wedge blocks to get things apart sometimes......And Yes all while using De Bond.
 
Are you having trouble getting them out........or Keeping them sealed?

What comes to mind are products used in the automotive industry....Strip Calk will stay pliable. It can be formed like Play-doe.......And then there is windshield sealent.....It's available in different dia. sizes.....Once that is stuck.....It will have to be cut out.

The Strip Calk is probably where I'd be headed....They sell is by the box....a whole box of 12in long pieces. NAPA and auto body supply should have it. Usually Gray in color.
 
I bet you have never had to remove some of those things......
Why would I do that?

With all due respect, your angry comments about my tru hulls in this case are hard to take seriously.
Just like plywood core in my Parker, any thru hulls are permanently mounted/glued/encapsulated into the hull.

Things like rod holders, speakers, etc. can, and conceivably should, be sealed with non-permanent sealants. Hatches? - if in the deck, I consider anything going mounted into plywood core permanent, inclusive of Parker deck, PH roof - anything plywood cored.

What would you use for cover snaps going into hull cap fiberglass? I use 5200.

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Well....like I said in the beginning of this thread....

5200 is the most used and abused product in the marine industry.

I'm not going to change your mind ....So we'll just leave at that!
 
Well....like I said in the beginning of this thread....

5200 is the most used and abused product in the marine industry.

I'm not going to change your mind ....So we'll just leave at that!
We always call it POO
and when you open a tube go out and look in your locked car with the windows rolled up and you will see it already on the steering wheel
 
We always call it POO
and when you open a tube go out and look in your locked car with the windows rolled up and you will see it already on the steering wheel
So true. The stuff is designed to wick and spread... and it does!
 
My experience is never use 5200 when 4200 will do the job. I’ve been a professional boat builder (many decades ago!) We used elephant snot (5200) to bed deck hardware such as sail handling winches. The hardware positions were determined by a collection of very experienced sailors including America’s Cup crew (in 12-meters) and world cruisers.

Every so often a customer would insist on custom hardware placement. We would have them sign a contract for financial liability if they were to change their mind and want the hardware moved. The bond of the urethane 5200 to gelcoat is stronger then the bond of polyester resin to glass fiber; if the hardware needed to come up, it was going to take the gelcoat with it and probably a lam or two of glass fiber. The cost to repair the glasswork was not something we wanted to have to eat.

It was a classic case of boat repair — a twenty minute job taking 3 days. 😂😢
 
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