BEP Cluster Switch Install

[warthog5]

I was asked on another forum to write a Blog after the "Who wires this Crap?" thread.

I was asked to write a Blog about some of this wiring from the other thread......"Who Build's this Crap!" It caught me just right,as the components were on order for installing in the "New" to me boat. [2530 Parker] I will add to this as the system is built.

This switch cluster will bring you into Y2K and make your life / boating much more simple.

Here is my explanation of how it works.

BEP Cluster Switch.

You start your day by turning the Start switch and the House switch to ON.
At the end of the day you turn them both OFF.

It doesn't get any simpler than that. You don't have to remember to turn from Batt 1 when going out and switch to Batt 2 on the way back in. Just something else that you have to remember.

OK so what goes on with it is done all automatically thru the VSR [Voltage Sensitive Relay]

The Relay is in a closed position. As soon as you hit the key to crank the motor the relay opens, due to sensing a large surge of current.

Ok the motor is cranked and running now. The relay is still open. The Alt is charging the Start battery until it reaches a set voltage and charge.

Then the relay closes and is back charging Both the Start & House Battery.

Now another feature that happened when you hit the key is your electronics were ON and wired from the House battery. This will stop any spiking of the Electronics. They don't like to be spiked!

OK...Now your out sitting on the beach. The motor is OFF, but you have the Radio playing for hours. The Relay senses the drop and opens the relay again. The radio is still playing, but the relay just disconnected the Start battery out of the circuit so that it stays at Full charge to start the motor.

When you get ready to leave the beach and crank the motor the alt will charge the Start battery first and when it's back up, the relay will close and charge the House battery.

There is one more switch on the Cluster. It is the Combine switch. Think of that as Jumper Cables without having to dig them out and hook them up. This switch would normally be in the OFF position, until you need a boost on the start battery. Then turn it to ON. After the motor is running turn it back OFF.

Everything is all Automatic. No thinking about it. Your batteries will have a much better charge in them.

The unit pictured above is just slightly larger than a Perko switch. So it doesn't take up much room and takes a LOT less room than the Blue Seas version. It looks cleaner too, due to the cables that are needed on the Blue Seas version.

The cost is aprox $150 for a unit for a single outboard and 2 batteries.

Here it is for a single motor and 2 batteries.

Out of the package looking at the backside.

Back coves just snap off.




OK...Now there is something I don't like about it. I find a bunch of companies in the marine industry do this. I chalk it up to the "Bean Counters".

It's the Damn use of Autmotive connectors that will let the elements find it's way to the wire and wire/terminal connection.

The result that I do is just make up some new leads with new 10ga and Crimp/shrink connectors.
[It's easier to make new ones than try and save the wire from the old ones]

New wires installed.

This is where I start every new wire job. The Master switch gets mounted.....Then the battery trays get mounted and batteries installed. Then you can get a proper measurement for your battery cable length. The whole electrical system builds from there.

 

[Megabyte]

I like this.
Need to put this switch on my project list. 8)

 

[warthog5]

I can't believe you haven't already? I've put about 8 of the twin motor units in and 6 of the single motor units now.

 

[Megabyte]

Is this it?

http://www.bepmarine.com/home-mainmenu- ... ng-cluster

 

[warthog5]

Yep That's it.

Bought the one in the pix here. Cheapest I found now.

http://www.amazon.com/Marine-Battery-Di ... ter+switch

 

[Scalawag 2320]

I like that set up.
Why don’t they incorporate a fuse holder for the main lead that goes to the house panel?
I’ve never been happy with any of the options I have found for fusing that feed at the batt swtch

 

[camron]

This product looks very nice. How does it compare to the normal battery isolator? Which I currently use.

Thanks
Camron

 

[DaleH]

This product looks very nice. How does it compare to the normal battery isolator? Which I currently use ...

There is no practical difference in use ...

 

[DaleH]

New wires installed.

Wheres the dielectric grease ... ?

 

[Megabyte]

Bobby... Could one use one of these switches as a replacement for the 1-Both-2-Off rotary switch presently in the boat?
I'm not looking to rebuild my electrical system, but I do like that switch as a replacement for the one I have now.

 

[DaleH]

Could one use one of these switches as a replacement for the 1-Both-2-Off rotary switch presently in the boat?

Essentially that is what it replaces ... but it permanently ties them into the monitored circuit, so as Bobby correctly points out ... you don't have to think about it.

I myself would definitely add one on my next rig or retro-fit, but what I have now works and isn't broken ...

 

[warthog5]

I like that set up.
Why don’t they incorporate a fuse holder for the main lead that goes to the house panel?
I’ve never been happy with any of the options I have found for fusing that feed at the batt swtch

I always add a 40 or 50amp surface mounted Circuit breaker beside the BEP cluster to feed thru it that goes forward to the house fuse panel.

Example:

 

[DaleH]

BEP Cluster:
Can that BEP cluster be mounted the other way vertically? The way it is mounted will allow moisture to drip/wick right down that lead onto the connections. I can't believe they'd market an electrical item with an opening on the TOP of the item ... poor design!

Breakers:
To really be snazzy, I mounted my breakers in a large plastic tupperware box and added holes (from the bottom) with rubber grommets to them, feeding in all wires thru the grommets. Poor man's NEMA water-resistant box ! Seal lid with some silicone.

Lube all connections well with dielectric grease and spray down with Boeshield T9 or equivalent, less DO NOT spray the actuation switch with T9 ... NO moving part should ever be sprayed with this stuff ...

 

[Megabyte]

Dale, I've been using CorrosionX on all of my electrical connections and so far I like it better than anything else I've used.
That stuff penetrates and stays put!

 

[warthog5]

That cluster can be made to many different configuration's. Each pod can be moved. What you see in the pix above is the standard configuration. It is only barely 1/4in taller and 1/4wider than a round Perko switch. It is also inside a closed area with a hatch on it. VERY little chance of any water coming in contact with it unless you open the hatch and sprayed it with the hose.

This is the other configuration.

Grease? This is what I use. All those other products ....especially in spray form leave a mess. This is a clear grease.

Super Lube® Synthetic Grease Is Clean, Non-Toxic, Food-Grade Lubricant Ideal For Consumer And Industrial Customers Around The World.

Synthetic Grease is a multi-purpose lubricant with Syncolon® (PTFE). The synthetic base fluids and PTFE micro powders combine to form a premium lubricant that protects against friction, wear, rust and corrosion. Temperature range of -45° to 450°F. Dielectric Grease is a non-curing Silicone compound with high dielectric strength. Ideal for sealing, protecting and insulating electrical components and connectors. Waterproof and compatible with most plastics. Lubricating Grease has a wider operating temperature range than most petroleum based greases and is compatible with major rubber and plastic compounds. Meets ISO 9001 standards. NSF approved.

 

[warthog5]

OK...For all those that are worried about grease and such....The materials that this stuff is constructed from have a direct bearing on corrosion and the need for the grease.

I personally have never had a come back or problem with using these materials and not using grease. But I did add the grease just for Dale. LOL. Note the silver on silver contact's....There is NO bare brass or bare copper.

\

This is a factory Yamaha cable. Just copper...non tinned. Also ....What I thought was 4ga factory, turned out to be 2ga. I was surprised with this. The rest of the system was wired with 4ga. without any problems for it's whole life. But had I known that the Yamaha cable was 2ga....I would have put 2ga on it....That's just the things I normally do in OVERKILL

Anyway....Here's the BEP cluster mounted and 6ga run thru the 50amp breaker to feed the house systems.

 

[Megabyte]

Here's the BEP cluster mounted and 6ga run thru the 50amp breaker to feed the house systems.

Nice. Very sanitary. 8)