DaleH
FOUNDER of Classic Parker Forum
Tip - I use small finish nails coated with grease as a release agent, instead of toothpicks.
Bilge Crack
- Thread starter mcyc
- Start date
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Sleigher
Well-known member
Is there a reason why you would use a chunk of wood instead of a chunk of fiberglass?
I am just curious.
I installed a thru-hull with a sea-cock and I bought a square block of fiberglass which I then sealed to the boats hull.
I did a similar thing to mount a battery box in the cabin.
Granted it was more expensive to use the FG but I figured that when I was done it was more like one solid piece of boat.
I guess I was concerned about the wood not being solid enough.
I am not being critical, please don't think that, I am trying to learn.
I do tend to over do things.
Peter
I am just curious.
I installed a thru-hull with a sea-cock and I bought a square block of fiberglass which I then sealed to the boats hull.
I did a similar thing to mount a battery box in the cabin.
Granted it was more expensive to use the FG but I figured that when I was done it was more like one solid piece of boat.
I guess I was concerned about the wood not being solid enough.
I am not being critical, please don't think that, I am trying to learn.
I do tend to over do things.
Peter
gw204
Well-known member
Peter,
In the case of a bilge pump, the purpose of the block is simply 1) to raise the pump off the hull bottom so it doesn't suck in bilge debris that settles and 2) to decrease the chance of running the mounting screws through the hull bottom. It's not really structural, so just about anything would work. I use wood because it's cheap and I usually already have some on hand. Overboring and backfilling the mounting holes provides the necessary rot protection so it doesn't have to be replaced again.
For things like seacocks, the wood is fine too. If bedded properly, it isn't going to come off.
A block of solid glass is just as good.
In the case of a bilge pump, the purpose of the block is simply 1) to raise the pump off the hull bottom so it doesn't suck in bilge debris that settles and 2) to decrease the chance of running the mounting screws through the hull bottom. It's not really structural, so just about anything would work. I use wood because it's cheap and I usually already have some on hand. Overboring and backfilling the mounting holes provides the necessary rot protection so it doesn't have to be replaced again.
For things like seacocks, the wood is fine too. If bedded properly, it isn't going to come off.
A block of solid glass is just as good.
OK ...
I was getting ready to put my new bilge pump in
And I also saw a line crack in the back of the bilge mount plate
I was able to flick off the gel coat..Its soaked but it doesn't look soft or flaky
* I suggest everyone check to see if there float switch and bilge pump was sealed up correctly*
When I took off the Bilge pump it was in a thick bed of life caulk as you can still see the foot print
The Float switch screws were just screwed in dry no foot print :twisted: ....that's how the water got underneath :twisted:
I was hoping not to pull the whole thing out :roll:
If I really should be fine
If I really think there is no rot It was mentioned to me last night
Drill a series of holes in it put a light bulb in the bilge for a week let it get good and dry
Pour in some thin glass and gel coat it up ,,,,,,,"thoughts"
I was getting ready to put my new bilge pump in
And I also saw a line crack in the back of the bilge mount plate
I was able to flick off the gel coat..Its soaked but it doesn't look soft or flaky
* I suggest everyone check to see if there float switch and bilge pump was sealed up correctly*
When I took off the Bilge pump it was in a thick bed of life caulk as you can still see the foot print
The Float switch screws were just screwed in dry no foot print :twisted: ....that's how the water got underneath :twisted:
I was hoping not to pull the whole thing out :roll:
If I really should be fine
If I really think there is no rot It was mentioned to me last night
Drill a series of holes in it put a light bulb in the bilge for a week let it get good and dry
Pour in some thin glass and gel coat it up ,,,,,,,"thoughts"
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DaleH
FOUNDER of Classic Parker Forum
In reality it is nothing but a piece of "sacrificial" structure, albeit wood, adhered to the solid glass layup hull, to ease the addition of a pump or other accessory item. You could leave it as is ...