Bilge rust stain Parker 1801

[Longislandfish]

Hello,

I have noticed some rust looking stains in the bilge that come from the port side. I clean them up and they return. Never paid much attention to it. I stumbled over a post that got me concerned. I also have been over inspecting any cracks or areas where water can get into the core material and produce rot.

Either way I’m now concerned that the stinger on the left hand side has some sort of water intrusion. It’s impossible to get inside the bilge to examine, I dont even know how I would fix it.

Apparently these “rust” stains are not rust but are tannins from the marine plywood that are leeching out. From my understanding it’s on the endgrain of the stringer.

Naively I thought maybe it was a fastener that was rusting through passivation, but now I’m concerned that I have a structural problem.

Any insight or help on how to address this??

 

[Puck-n-Fish]

It’s impossible to get inside the bilge to examine, I dont even know how I would fix it.

Which is why I wouldn't worry too much about it. I had water staining in the bilge area for years. And then one day a 3/8 drive ratchet with a socket appeared from underneath. I'm not sure who lost it or when, but it was quite deteriorated from the rusting. Any metal down there will rust. Either way, short of tearing stuff apart, I don't believe there's much you can do...especially during fishing season!

 

[Longislandfish]

Which is why I wouldn't worry too much about it. I had water staining in the bilge area for years. And then one day a 3/8 drive ratchet with a socket appeared from underneath. I'm not sure who lost it or when, but it was quite deteriorated from the rusting. Any metal down there will rust. Either way, short of tearing stuff apart, I don't believe there's much you can do...especially during fishing season!

I would like to find something like that to ease my mind. I suspect it maybe be fiberglass that cracked on the stringer. Going to get my ass inside and take some pics.

 

[Longislandfish]

The telltale sign of tannins leaching from the stringer. Will have to see where but I read a previous post with identical staining and he has the glass professionally removed and allowed stringer to be dried and then reglassed

 

[Puck-n-Fish]

So at least its way in the back and not forward. I would think you could get a look back there with a 2" dia. telescopic mirror and a flashlight.

 

[Longislandfish]

good idea

 

[Longislandfish]

Thoroughly saddened to find this. Dosent look good and I’m not looking forward to the potential cost to repair this.

 

[Puck-n-Fish]

Other than being in a tough spot, open it up and see the extent. It may not be as bad as you think. No one will ever see the repair, so you don't have any cosmetic issues to worry about. You got it early so I'm guessing it's not that bad. Excavate, fill with epoxy, paint over it.
Is your boat trailered?

 

[Longislandfish]

Other than being in a tough spot, open it up and see the extent. It may not be as bad as you think. No one will ever see the repair, so you don't have any cosmetic issues to worry about. You got it early so I'm guessing it's not that bad. Excavate, fill with epoxy, paint over it.
Is your boat trailered?

Yes trailered and covered at all times. I don’t think I can open the end cap easily. I will need to do if from the inside facing wall.

Anyone recommend how to do this?

 

[TimC2520]

The telltale sign of tannins leaching from the stringer. Will have to see where but I read a previous post with identical staining and he has the glass professionally removed and allowed stringer to be dried and then reglassed

I think that would be me.

 

[TimC2520]

Yes trailered and covered at all times. I don’t think I can open the end cap easily. I will need to do if from the inside facing wall.

Anyone recommend how to do this?

Any decent fiberglass shop can fix that very easily. If I remember correctly, my cost was less than $2,000 and that included them doing the other stringer in the same location at my request (just in case). I forget the year, but it has to be close to 20 years ago now and it's still fine and I still own the boat.

 

[Longislandfish]

Any decent fiberglass shop can fix that very easily. If I remember correctly, my cost was less than $2,000 and that included them doing the other stringer in the same location at my request (just in case).

It’s pretty wet inside there. Wonder how far the rot has spread. You had said your stringer was intact just damp.

 

[TimC2520]

It’s pretty wet inside there. Wonder how far the rot has spread. You had said your stringer was intact just damp.

Correct. They cut the glass off to expose the wood. Put a heat lamp or halogen work lamp in there and dried it out. reglassed then gel coated. Judging by your pics, mine was worse than that. The entire edge split open, maybe 6-8" up from the bottom of the bilge to the floor.

 

[Longislandfish]

Correct. They cut the glass off to expose the wood. Put a heat lamp or halogen work lamp in there and dried it out. reglassed then gel coated.

Will be calling my fiberglass man! Hopefully I’m as lucky as you.

 

[TimC2520]

Will be calling my fiberglass man! Hopefully I’m as lucky as you.

Let us know how you make out.

 

[Longislandfish]

Let us know how you make out.

Will do. I hope it can be repaired without tearing out the deck or stringer..

 

[Longislandfish]

Let us know how you make out.

Well, I was told in order to diagnose the skin needs to be cut back, and deck may have to be removed partially. Not ideal. That’s gonna be a few K

 

[Puck-n-Fish]

Not sure I agree with all that work just to diagnose. It's not in a comfortable area but my remedy would be to remove the hatch, use a small right angle air grinder with a carbide burr bit and start excavating that area. Once you open up the area, you will get a feel for how extensive the repair will be. Best case, you will only need to try it out and move ahead with glassing back in. Worst case is there's major rot and you'd be into a big repair anyway that involves deck removal.

 

[Longislandfish]

Not sure I agree with all that work just to diagnose. It's not in a comfortable area but my remedy would be to remove the hatch, use a small right angle air grinder with a carbide burr bit and start excavating that area. Once you open up the area, you will get a feel for how extensive the repair will be. Best case, you will only need to try it out and move ahead with glassing back in. Worst case is there's major rot and you'd be into a big repair anyway that involves deck removal.

Agreed brother, agreed! I drilled a few inspection holes 3/16 and it seems wet and black about 2-3inches in, and starts to get lighter and less damp within 5-6 inches. Injected acetone to help dry it. There are several methods that can be used here but I think I will attempt to inject either a penetrating epoxy after leaving this to dry for awhile or, another technique is a polyurethane glue that expands and chases water out so no need to wait for drying. Produces a rock hard substrate, this is something I may attempt….

 

[MadGar]

Id want to know how it's getting so wet too. Doesn't appear that your bilge is staying wet. I guess it's hard to see but was the fiberglass not completely sealing the wood stringer? A little disappointing if that was the case. Does your boat stay in the water or live on a trailer? It really looks like poor craftsmanship but I think your plan will work fine, at least give you plenty breathing room until you decide to to do a more thorough repair. I woudl think you would still want to cover it with some fiberglass to prevent future intrusion of water. That's a damn shame and looks preventable.