Boat Trailer U-bolt Rust Removal

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striperon

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Location
Debary, FL
It is time to replace a cross member on my boat trailer. The U-bolts and straight bolts have enough rust to lead me to expect trouble when removing the nuts. I think I will break the bolts when I start turning off the nuts, unless I remove the rust on the threads. I would like to remove the rust on all the bolts on the trailer at the same time, even if I am not removing them. Replacing all of them will run into money I would rather spend on fishing tackle.

Penetrating oil may work, WD-40 also may work, and wire brush, of course. But I am not confident. Does anyone have a more effective method? They are galvanized, 1/2 inch steel.
 
PB Blaster soak em good over night, then hit again the day of removal. Also coat threads with never seize then put the wrench to it. I did this method with very old and rusted trailer lug nuts and didn't use air wrench to get them off.
 
It's been my personal experience that a mix of 50% acetone and 50% automatic transmission fluid, shaken well and liberally sprayed on rusted threads will work better than any commercial penetrating oil.
 
I'll second the kanolab products. We use Kroil at my job. Only thing that will touch some of the stubborn bolts on these GE Gas Turbines. I don't think you'll have that much trouble getting those 1/2 inch bolts broke free. If they start to gull, just ring them off with a breaker bar. Make sure you put stainless bolts back. When using a stainless bolt and stainless hex nut together, be sure to use some sort of anti gulling compound on the threads.

Charlie,
Eden, Maryland
 
Kroil is the "Chuck Norris" of penetrating oils! I've used it on MANY war-fighting platforms in places that constantly see seawater. A frog's butt-hole isn't tight enough to keep that stuff out! :lol:
 
Good to know about Kroil Jonas. I just ordered some.

Have a project coming up where I have to remove 20 year old exhaust manifold bolts without wringing any off.
Cast iron manifolds coming off... coated stainless steel long-tube headers going on. :wink:
 
Megabyte":1pahmzwa said:
Cast iron manifolds coming off... coated stainless steel long-tube headers going on. :wink:

Remember we like to see project pics around here!!!! :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
 
Bryan 2530":2y59on1q said:
Megabyte":2y59on1q said:
Cast iron manifolds coming off... coated stainless steel long-tube headers going on. :wink:

Remember we like to see project pics around here!!!! :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

No LT1 headers in stock, so they have to be built... then sent out to be Jet Hot coated.
Delivery estimate is 5 weeks. :(
 
In my many years of marine machinery work, I learned a few things about tough fasteners-
1. Soak 'em in Kroil
2. Strike with a hammer and slightly turn in the tightening direction first
3. Heat when necessary
4. Use a 6 point wrench or socket if you can
5. Cussing doesn't really help but can provide humor to your shipmates especially if you are creative with your vocabulary, loud and animated
6. Last but not least- get a bigger hammer!
 
You may want to look hard at applying heat on your manifold fasteners. The heat will stretch the fasteners and make loosening very easy if done properly. I watched two guys just the other day struggle hard with a main steam throttle. I'm kind of a big-wig now and the deck-plate youngsters forget that I was doing this work way before their dads knew their moms. They fought the fasteners for half a shift and finally took my advice (before I directed their boss's, boss's, boss) to touch them with a rosebud torch. The next day, all fasteners removed sat! Good luck, sorry about the long part delivery date.
 
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