Bow Bilge pump area in the 2310 in cabin

[Reefrunner]

Glassed in a piece of Nida-core composite. Suggest staying away from Starboard for this purpose. There is a small gap under the
false floor that was glassed in. This allowed for drain hole positioning and working space while doing the job. Drilled hole first then glassed the floor to the hole so there was no need to worry about being in the exact location when drilling the hull from the outside. If I need to access the the bow eye from the inside I will cut a hole with a hole saw and install a round inspection plate on the false floor. Decided to leave it for the time being. Bow eye looks fine for now. Drain hole on the outside does not need to be covered with the clamshell, it is high enough.

 

[A^4]

Drilled a drain hole thru the side of the hull and glassed in a false bottom in the anchor locker. No more needless water into the forward bilge from the anchor locker. Then found my slam hatch in the cockpit was not sealing well. Replaced gasket with another manufacturers gasket. New gasket is more pronounced so it actually seals. Installed skirt over the top of the fiberglass stand box in the cockpit aft, that the rigging runs thru. Now I have a 99.9% dry bilge. Installed rubber plugs in the cabin floor drains to keep the dirt out and any remaining water. Don’t hose out the cabin so no need for drains. Now my bilge is 100% dry and clean. Most of the water problems originally came from the anchor locker. Boat is a 2520.

What gaskets did you use? Looking forward to fixing my water in the bilge issues.

 

[Reefrunner]

The slam hatches on my 2006 2520 were made by Innovative Solutions. Don’t think they are in business anymore. The cockpit floor slam hatch was aged and leaking so I moved the cockpit hatch to the v-Berth and moved the v-Berth like new Innovative Solutions slam hatch to the cockpit. The gasket on the v-Berth hatch I moved leaked despite being in perfect shape. The original gaskets had a round profile much like an oring. I replaced that gasket with a “Temptress” 13x30 Access Hatch Gasket PN 70066. The Temptress hatch gasket profile was round on one side and flat on the other. I glued the round side into the grove on the hatch using “gel” super glue. The flat side if the gasket was more pronounced than the original oring gasket. Slam Hatch Lid still closed but now it sealed 100%. Note this Temptress gasket is longer in length than needed so I cut it and butted the ends. Temptress has a online store. FYI Don’t order the utility hatch gasket that matches the length you may need. That gasket Is larger in dia so it will not fit the groove.

 

[A^4]

The slam hatches on my 2006 2520 were made by Innovative Solutions. Don’t think they are in business anymore. The cockpit floor slam hatch was aged and leaking so I moved the cockpit hatch to the v-Berth and moved the v-Berth like new Innovative Solutions slam hatch to the cockpit. The gasket on the v-Berth hatch I moved leaked despite being in perfect shape. The original gaskets had a round profile much like an oring. I replaced that gasket with a “Temptress” 13x30 Access Hatch Gasket PN 70066. The Temptress hatch gasket profile was round on one side and flat on the other. I glued the round side into the grove on the hatch using “gel” super glue. The flat side if the gasket was more pronounced than the original oring gasket. Slam Hatch Lid still closed but now it sealed 100%. Note this Temptress gasket is longer in length than needed so I cut it and butted the ends. Temptress has a online store. FYI Don’t order the utility hatch gasket that matches the length you may need. That gasket Is larger in dia so it will not fit the groove.

Ok so I'm finally starting this project and I took my chain and rode out of there, cleaned it out a lot, and this is what I saw. Basically at the bow eye there is a support and thru the anchor locker hatch there is another nice support too. I was just thinking of building my shelf right on top of that, build it up on one side so there's a nice slant to stbd and go from there. Did you build up anymore or just use what's there? Looks like an easier job than some of the others I've tackled...

 

[Reefrunner]

We have a 2520 and it looks a little different. I chose to be a little higher than the bow area that steps out on the exterior. The step out is the what pushes the water away from the boat so being above that means less water trying to get in from the outside. I measured back to about 1” from the starboard aft corner so there was little needed to angle towards the drain hole from the aft end. I measured with a tape two find the spot. You may try using two small round earth magnets one inside and one out to locate the best spot to drill. Start drilling with a counter sink to bevel the hole. Keeps drill bit from catching and chipping the gelcoat. Job looks not so bad until you realize it is a one handed job thru a small locker opening in the vberth. It Just takes a little more time. Good luck.

 

[A^4]

For the 2520, the bow eye is under the step out on the exterior, on the 2310 the bow eye is above that step out. The little shelf I made it probably close to a foot above that. I'll share pics when I'm done but it's looking good so far.

 

[Bodick93]

Gents, I did this on my 2320 when new, in 2019. You can use rare earth magnets to determine your orientation inside to out. They will stick through the hull. The ones from home Depot/Lowe's work fine. I used a bronze Groco through hull with no clam shell. See post #72 for the location of the thru-hull in my example if you don't want to read it all.
I also had a blockage in the llmber drain in the cabin that would not allow water to flow from the anchor locker. I never would have known were it not for this project. Crazy.

https://www.thehulltruth.com/boatin...cker-drain-need-little-glass-help-please.html