Breaker switch replacement

[Jtwo]

I have a 1998 2520 DVSC electrical project - need to find some toggle switches to replace non-op ones. Eric at the factory says they are 'Carling' toggle switches - and are readily available - but the WM near by does not carry that brand, nor are they of the right connect/pole config, etc. Any suggestions?

I think I need (2) 15 amp on-off two pole - spade connect (for cockpit /deck lights switch (second down on panel) plus one extra) and maybe (2) 8 amp or 5 amp switches for accessory switchs.

I've also looked on ebay (close, but not right style).

If you have accurate part # I can reference, that might help too...

Jeff

 

[TimC2520]

Have you tried contacting Carling? They may be able to put you in contact with a local distributor...

http://www.carlingtech.com/products/index.asp

 

[Megabyte]

Have you tried contacting Carling? They may be able to put you in contact with a local distributor...

http://www.carlingtech.com/products/index.asp

Carling might also be able to tell you what model switches they sourced to Parker to be used as OEM items.

 

[Jtwo]

Thanks. The hurdle is that there is no 'part no.' on the toggle switches.

I went to the Carling webpage, found and dialed the local distributor. Not much help but they have no idea what I'm looking at.
Have also contacted Carling direct to see if they can identify the OEM part no. for that year model (1998). Sent email and hope to hear back someday.

The part document from the Carling website I used to identify the toggle is attached below.

I'll get back with what I find out.

Jtwo

 

[Jtwo]

Carling toggle document

jtwo

 

[Megabyte]

Two other possibilities...

Your dealer might have replacement switches in stock for other customers who have the same problem you have.
Second option would be to take the bad switches and try to match them up with Blue Seas equivalents.

I know that several of my neighbors replaced their switch panels with Blue Seas panels.

 

[Jtwo]

Roger Blue Seas. Was on the phone with the BOE crew for some other electronic treats. They mentioned Blue Seas. They only had white toggles or SS round toggles.

I'm hard headed for the 'groved, style "4"' nylon replacments. I have a knack for doing things the hard way...its a personal problem...

I thought about the dealer but figured they might only have rockers as that seems like the new/improved switch. But should at least say hi and ask. I'll try that too...They were totally nice when partner was in the shop kicking the new boats and sourcing replacement gel coat, windows, etc. for our fixer-upper.


Jtwo

 

[finfish1]

Call Jamestown dist.
Look on their web site
Blue Sea Systems
There site is excellent, get Blue Sea catalog on web.
Excellent electrical supplies, and details on JTD's site.
I've recently installed some, and they match well.

 

[Jtwo]

So question - under 'Action' when reading about toggles it says:

Off-On (which I understand) but also has as a choice "Off-(On)" where the "On" is in parentheses ( ).

What is the significance of putting an action in ( )?


Jtwo

 

[Jtwo]

Just answered my own question - an action in ( ) means "momentary".

Blue Sea will work, but my toggles are black and Blue Sea only seems to sell white toggles. Interestingly, you can see "Carling" written on the side of one of the 'WeatherDeck' switches in the Blue Seas catalog.

The local distributor of Carling switches called back to day to say that the switches can be ordered, non-refundable/exchangeable...7 to 8 weeks for delivery - made to order - about $6 ea.

The Carling switch part no. for the top switch in our 1998 2520 DV model (anchor/running light) is 2GK 51-D4BB. ON-OFF-ON, double pole toggle switch. [Blue Sea Part no. is 8211]

The part no. for all the other switches (single pole, single throw - ON-OFF) is 2GA 51-D4BB. [Blue Sea part no. is 8204].

Dealer was no help (can't blame him).

Not sure what I'm going to do. 8 weeks is a long time to wait. White will stick out. Maybe a little black Sharpie pen work and I'll be back in business....Or replace them all...

Jtwo

 

[finfish1]

No, no,no.
Jamestown Dist. stocks the switches in black.
Contura Switches they call them PN 8230-8275, with or without leds, also the really nice Mounting panels for $4 a piece.
page 78 in there catalog, I installed 3 switches this past week below the factory custer, they match my friend, trust me, I'm in the business of wiring, troubleshooting 12VDC circuitry.
These are the finest items available.
www.bluesea.com

 

[Megabyte]

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/main.do

 

[Jtwo]

Finfish1,

The Contura you reference is a rocker switch (in my mind anyway) and I am after a toggle switch, (see picture) which was the OEM switch used in 1998. Parker has since switched to the nicer Contura style you have. I do wish I had a nice Contura panel on the boat...but for now, I'm a toggle guy.

Thanks for the Blue Sea/Jamestown Dist. connection. They will likely be my source for a replacment switch. They do have a great selection.

Jtwo

 

[Megabyte]

Toggles are what I have on my 1996 model, so they are likely the same switch.
I need to print and save this thread...

 

[Jtwo]

So post mortem on this subject -

Ordered some Ancor TOGGLE SPST switches from Jamestown Dist. Got three to replace two bad and one spare.

So while fussing with corroded wires, i had two more TOGGLE switches quit working. What is the deal?!

Being the inquisitive type, but not especially respectful of mechanical devices - I tried prying one of the toggle switches apart to see what was failing inside. The Carling switches in the older Parkers (pre-99 about - mine's 98 ) have a 'C' shaped top and sides that just pries loose with a steady hand and small flat-head.

Essentially, you have a little copper teeter-totter that flips side to side and makes contact (when one side is down) or not (when that side is up). The toggle is connected to a little spring loaded plunger that is fully extended when positioned to one side (in the ON or OFF position) but retracts as toggle is thrown to the other side. It retracts to squeeze over the middle of the teeter-totter and extends again as it depresses the other side of the teeter-totter mechanisim.

When the toggles fail, the t-t mechanisim might have gotten side ways on its axle, the plunger may have fallen out of its seat (eg you will feel no resistance and toggle freely flips side to side), or the lube that allows the plunger to work is gone and the plunger gets stuck. (and toggle seems 'frozen').

Realign stuff, add the tiniest bit of light grease and snap back in place and VIOLA!!! All five switches that were 'failed' were up and running again. I abused them severly before reinstalling and they held up.

So I will have three new spares when they arrive, but in the mean time, don't fret if you have old NON_OP toggles. Pull them out and try this method.

BTW - I will have to re-enact this discovery if anyone wants to see pics. I was so amazed with my fix, I didn't think to photo document...

Jtwo