Bronze scupper tube cracked

Classic Parker Boat Forum

Help Support Classic Parker Boat Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I like these Scupper Valves over the ping pong balls. They work great and they add a bit of bling to your boat.
 

Attachments

  • scupper.jpg
    scupper.jpg
    145.8 KB
I had mine replaced by a mobile fiberglass guy when I had a little bit of other work done on my 2120. He charged me 25 bucks each. That was back in 2018 or 2019. If I was going to do again I would go the pvc route and level it off to deck height.
 
I put those on my 1800 last year.

Look good and work well.

Really heavy duty.
 
Project is underway. I have the tubes out and have enlarged the holes enough to accommodate the electrical PVC insert.

One question now is, would / did you first seal the core of the transom with fiberglass resin or epoxy and let that cure, then apply the epoxy to the PVC insert? I was thinking of sealing the core first, then roughing that up along with the PVC before epoxying them into place.

Make sense? Any reason not to do this in 2 phases?

Thanks!
 
You want to glue them in and not be Resign starved.....
The plywood core will do that if you don't pre wet it..... and may take multiple coats at different stages.

You actually want the PVC to fit loosely....IE: Have a good gap.

This is one job I'd use epoxy on. It will set slower and suck in more sealing that core around that area well..

So.... Attack plan is.....Mix epoxy resign and coat the inside well. Be sure to tape things off well first for drips....... 20min- 30min later coat it again. 20-30min after that Butter the sanded PVC with epoxy/Cabisol mix and shove it in. Make the PVC slightly shorter than the thickness of the transom....IE: the PVC length should match the CORE thickness. This gives you a perfect spot to create a nice radius on the in & outside where the PVC intersects with the fiberglass.
 
Thanks Warthog!
I was unfamiliar with Cabisol, so just looked that up. To be clear, that’s a thickener you’re adding to the epoxy on the final step when inserting the pvc, correct?

What type of epoxy do you recommend? For other projects I’ve done (rod holders; bulkhead hatch, fuel tank pie plates, etc) I’ve used bondo fiberglass resin to seal the plywood.

Since this is such a critical job, I want to ensure I’m using the best stuff possible.

As always, appreciate the help.
 
I used total boat performance and thickener. It takes a little fudging with measuring, set times and temps. But after some trial and minor errors I can pretty much mix for any condition. Wish I had found the Wart-method before.
 
Thanks Warthog!
I was unfamiliar with Cabisol, so just looked that up. To be clear, that’s a thickener you’re adding to the epoxy on the final step when inserting the pvc, correct?

What type of epoxy do you recommend? For other projects I’ve done (rod holders; bulkhead hatch, fuel tank pie plates, etc) I’ve used bondo fiberglass resin to seal the plywood.

Since this is such a critical job, I want to ensure I’m using the best stuff possible.

As always, appreciate the help.
Wear a good respirator when handling the cabosil, (fumed silica) it’s extremely fine and is horrible for your lungs.

Also when you mix your epoxy, before you add your hadener mix in your cabosil. Then catalyze it

You will want a a really still mixture that resembles a stiff peanut butter, you can use a piping bag to get a nice filet inside the opening. I would mask off the area so you don’t get it all over the place as well.

It’s not hard to do, take your time. Prep, have plenty of disposable gloves and rags. It will go perfect the more time you take the better the job

Good luck
 
Wear a good respirator when handling the cabosil, (fumed silica) it’s extremely fine and is horrible for your lungs.

Also when you mix your epoxy, before you add your hadener mix in your cabosil. Then catalyze it

You will want a a really still mixture that resembles a stiff peanut butter, you can use a piping bag to get a nice filet inside the opening. I would mask off the area so you don’t get it all over the place as well.

It’s not hard to do, take your time. Prep, have plenty of disposable gloves and rags. It will go perfect the more time you take the better the job

Good luck
Appreciate the tips.
Yeah, I plan on masking the heck out of the work area since I'm sure they'll be plenty of "overflow" to deal with.
I won't tackle this phase until after the holdiays since we're away.
Thanks again to all for their input. Don't know what I'd do without this forum.
I'm sure I wouldn't be as much of a Parker nerd and snob that I've over the past few years :)
 
Getting close. Plan on doing epoxy this weekend so wanted opinions prior to.

Which length would you go!with for the PVC?
Shorter or longer? And go!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1896.jpeg
    IMG_1896.jpeg
    2.1 MB
  • IMG_1898.jpeg
    IMG_1898.jpeg
    1.2 MB
You go Shorter.....And then you create a Fillet at each end. This.....Then gives a smooth transition. It's also easier than allowing the tube to run long and create a fillet.
 
Thanks Warthog,
I should have been more specific in my question.

The one on the far starboard side (left side in photo #2) is a bit shooter than the other one.

Would you go shorter than this or does that one look right?
 
Either or...would work.... It isn't as critical as you may think......But here is the number I know your looking for.

Measure thru the hole..... Cut the PVC a 1/4in shorter than that. Bond it in 1/8in back from the outer edge.
 
take lots of pictures

The pix I posted is not enough ? What more do you need?
 

Attachments

  • 100_4117.JPG
    100_4117.JPG
    537.6 KB
  • 100_4118.JPG
    100_4118.JPG
    588.8 KB
  • 100_4119.JPG
    100_4119.JPG
    516.3 KB
  • 100_4120.JPG
    100_4120.JPG
    463.5 KB
  • 100_4121.JPG
    100_4121.JPG
    505.5 KB
  • 100_4122.JPG
    100_4122.JPG
    458.3 KB
Back
Top