bunk trailers

[B-Faithful]

any of you guys with 25 parkers use bunk trailers and launch and retrieve by yourself? I am a roller trailer guy but my new boat comes with bunk. A lot of times it is just my young son and I and I want to make sure that accepting this bunk isnt going to be a pain in the butt. Any pointers to solo loading and retrieving a larger boat on a bunk.... Must I power load?

 

[Megabyte]

Greg, I have owned both and much preferred the bunk.

Having said that, i believe that a bunk trailer will be easy for you to load single-handed, and no... you do not need to power load (though it does make it easier).

Once you get the boat we'll go to SPSP and practice. :wink:
I will bet you 6 cold beers that you too will prefer the bunk after one days practice at the ramp.

 

[esfishdoc]

I'm a bunk guy.

I always load and unload alone even when help is available. I have a routine and wouldn't break it.

I do use power to load the boat... but it is very easy. I get the boat up to the trailer and get the bow touching the foward bunks and centered properly, apply some power to ride up the final couple of feet to or near the bow stop. Cut off the motor, tilt up, done. The friction of the bunks keeps it in place while I go foward and over to secure before hauling it out.

I've been meaning to have someone video this process.... I'll get around to it.

Once you do it a couple of times it will be easy and you will wonder what you were doing with that roller trailer all that time.

Richard

 

[Parkerman]

I too am a bunk guy. I recently found that a good ramp is key. Rollers seem to self level and self center the boat regardless of the ramp. I used to launch at a ramp that tilted to the right so my boat always sat croked on the trailor. I switched ramps two weeks ago and she sits nice and level because the ramp is nice and level so the trailor sits nice and level. I power up with in six inches of the bow stop and crank her up and off I go. I also dont worry too much about securing the boat for the two mile drive back to the house. On rollers I would be using ratchet straps and all sorts of securing devises.

 

[B-Faithful]

My father was a roller guy and I have been a roller guy as not all ramps are good. I am use to walking the boat to the rollers hooking on the cable and winching up. This way I dont have to get in the boat and she lines up straight all the time. I also didnt have to worry about shallow ramps. We will see how I make out. I am wondering how to power load solo. If I drive the boat up on the trailer, how does the boat stay on the bunks on a steep ramp while I get off the boat and hook the cable? How do I power load onto a shallow ramp without killing my outdrive? does power loading kill your impeller at ramps where there is a lot of sand at the end (kiptopeke) etc. New ball game for me. I have used bunk trailers before but I have been with someone to where I either power load or hook the cable and pull the boat to level land. I dont want my young son doing either. I have a short ramp in my community that I like to use for family boating but will have the luxury of Sandy Pont State Park for fishing.

Here are the ramps I like to use
My Community Ramp - short -- very short at low tide. no real finger pier to guide the boat
Sandy Point State Park MD- perfect facilities
Solomons MD - good facilities
Point Lookout MD- good facilities
Kiptopeke VA-ramp with sandy bottom and sand on ramp, shallow on one side
Sea Isle City NJ-long very shallow ramp under the JFK bridge.

I hope to find a good DE ramp to access DE Bay this year. Need one for bunk trailers

 

[JFP123]

I have used both and prefer bunk. When alone I usually dont powerload, I just tie up, back down and pull the boat up using a bow line, climb on the trailer and attach the cable and winch it the last few feet. If you mark the guide poles to denote the correct depth you can float it up very close to the bow stop and dial in the proper scheme to minimize winching vs not having enough bunk exposed to hold the boat. If I have a partner to back down, I do powerload, which also is easy also, as noted.

All in all, bunk is easier solo I think. Also rides lower therefore easier to tow and easier to board when on the trailer.

 

[gw204]

I've had both bunks and rollers under my boats and I much preferred the rollers in all cases. Rollers loaded easier, launched easier, centered better, etc. on all ramps, not just the nice ones.

That being said, the AL bunk trailer I have now results in about 500 lb. less of towing weight.

 

[esfishdoc]

I think you might have too much time on your hands to worry about things that you will find weren't worth worrying about.... but that is all part of sitting around without a boat!

Most people you have seen power on a boat at a ramp don't know what they are doing.

Let me say a few things that hopefully will put your mind at ease.

When I first bought my boat it was already in the water for a final shake down cruise. I hooked the new trailer up to my new truck and backed it down into the water to a spot I was told was just right. When I asked the salesman if he would run the boat up on the trailer he looked at me like I was crazy...... he wasn't going to take a chance and mess MY boat up. So with shaky hands I did it... first time!

I think it is fair to say I've done it now 250 times easy. I can do it now in conditions that would have been terrible while a rooky..... but I've always managed without any help.

I've had to shoot the markers at Kiptopeake with 30 mph crosswinds and that is much more difficult (and dangerous) than putting in the trailer with those same winds.

When offloading the boat, the trailer is backed down far enough where the stern is floating free of the rear bunks but the front bunks have enough grip to hold the boat even with the winch and safety chain off. A surge of power in reverse and away I go. If the trailer isn't in far enough... well the boat is stuck on the trailer.... if the trailer is too far in.... well the boat would float off. It won't take much effort to find the right spot. For my set up it is easy... I back the truck down till the rear wheels of the truck are just in the water. I can hop in the back of the truck without getting my feet wet.

To load the boat, I back the trailer down till the front of the rear bunks are barely covered with water (and the front bunks are about half out of water) I drive the boat up and center it to where I can feel the front of the boat just engaging the front bunks. Here is where the practice comes in: I start rolling on the power and as the boat moves forward it is also self centering, when I know I'm good there is more power to gain momentum and at just the right moment I back off the power, cut the engine and tilt up the motor. From start to finish there is about 3 seconds of power and the total trip is about 3 or 4 feet. I almost never hit the stop.... I don't want to. I want to stop about 6 inches from the stop and winch it the rest of the way.

The 3 ramps I use most are Kiptopeake, Willis Wharf and Cape Charles. Kiptopeake is sandy, Willis Wharf is muddy bottom. When I changed my impeller after at least 300 hours and a couple hundred trips it looked like new.

Although I always tilt my motor up I'm convinced I won't ever hit it at a ramp. The nature of the bunk trailer keeps the bow down more than a roller trailer. Of course your set up may be different.

Can you tell I'm laying around at home with a back injury and unable to get out on my boat during my days off!!!!!

 

[CaptainJim]

I have a 2004 venture trailer for my 2520 that I use for hauling out/bottom cleaning and winter driveway storage.

I have the roller trailer, VRT-5700, and am Happy with it, BUT - the overwide nature of the boat makes it a challenge to get on the trailer straight. Once i get the boat going up the rollers I have to adjust the stern with the motor.

Launching / retrieving single handed is impossible and not to be done ever on my setup....boat and trailer are too unwieldy.

I orig. had the boat dry slipped on a trailer (dry storage at the marina), and launched it when we needed it, but that got to be a hassle, slipping it was just easier and allows me to use the boat more.

I wish i had gotten the bunks for simplicity. I have had problems with the rollers snapping off their plastic bushing mounts from launching and retrieving. have replaced more than 5-6 of the bushings/mounting straps for the roller arms. The venture dealer where I bought the trailer has been more than gracious about giving me free parts to do it, however.

 

[MaxOut]

Sounds like a matter of what you are more comfortable with. I have owned both roller and bunks. My previous boat was a 35' Cat hull on a bunk trailer that was a bear and sometimes impossible to launch and retrieve.

I prefer the roller trailer for ease of launching and loading in shallow ramps. The thing I do like about the bunks is better support on the hull and more secure during transport. The main reason I would choose rollers again and again is regardless of tide and ramp conditions you have a better chance getting the boat on and off with a roller. I have left good ramps on a high tide to return at a low and would have never retrieved the boat on to a bunk trailer. You almost need no water to retrieve a boat with a roller trailer as long as you have a good winch.

On another note consider getting stainless disc brakes, LED lights & electric over hydro brake controller. In my opinion the best set up....way better braking longer lasting and gives you control of your brakes from the cabin of your tow vehicle.

 

[MaxOut]

I have a 2004 venture trailer for my 2520 that I use for hauling out/bottom cleaning and winter driveway storage.

I have the roller trailer, VRT-5700, and am Happy with it, BUT - the overwide nature of the boat makes it a challenge to get on the trailer straight. Once i get the boat going up the rollers I have to adjust the stern with the motor.

Launching / retrieving single handed is impossible and not to be done ever on my setup....boat and trailer are too unwieldy.

I orig. had the boat dry slipped on a trailer (dry storage at the marina), and launched it when we needed it, but that got to be a hassle, slipping it was just easier and allows me to use the boat more.


I wish i had gotten the bunks for simplicity. I have had problems with the rollers snapping off their plastic bushing mounts from launching and retrieving. have replaced more than 5-6 of the bushings/mounting straps for the roller arms. The venture dealer where I bought the trailer has been more than gracious about giving me free parts to do it, however.

Use the black rollers. I have had the Venture trailers and the yellow rollers Suck! I had the same problem. No roller problems on the EZ loader rollers (yet). Just a suggestion would be not to back the trailer so far back so the transom is not floating over the back of the trailer. Nose the boat up to the trailer and crank it on. The trailer will line the boat up as it loads. Your rollers may not be aligned correctly. If the boat is floating over the rollers they will not line it up. You will have to get your feet wet or wear boots but works well on some ramps. I load and unload my boat allot by myself I just approach it differently.

 

[ceblizzard]

I have a Load Rite roller trailer under my 23SE. I launch and retrieve by myself without any problem. The trailer hardly gets wet. The rear gang of rollers dip slightly in the water. Never had a problem with brakes or wheel bearings. Boat loads perfect every time, no matter what the wind is doing. Yes, it may take me a few more minutes to load using the powerwinch, but my trailer stays in good shape.

Charlie,
Eden, Md.

 

[B-Faithful]

Capt Jim, If I dont like the bunk maybe we can work a deal for my 2008 Bunk for your 2004 roller!

( I should have kept my 5 starr roller trailer with torsion axle and disk breaks)

 

[njterrier]

Last night while approaching my roller trailer at the ramp, I noticed one of the rollers was missing from the trailer. Figures after all the marine stores in my area were already closed! Anyway, luckily I found a heap of scrap parts at the marina/yard that I keep my boat stored and scored a roller. My trailer is 9 years old now, and looks like cr*p. I am actually scared to go any distance with the trailer. I am confused as to whether I should have the trailer re-furbished, or just pony up and buy a new one. I am leaning towards buying new and getting torsion axles, disc brakes, all stainless bolts/hardware, and sticking with rollers.
Has anyone had their trailers re-furbished, was it worth it?, or should I go brand new? My current is a single axle load rite, "no-brakes", leaf springs "rusted", 4 deg cocked rail where the coupler is attached, and pretty "ratty" looking u-bolts/hangers. At least the bearing buddies are ok.

THx Scott

 

[Megabyte]

I am leaning towards buying new and getting torsion axles, disc brakes, all stainless bolts/hardware

That is the way I would lean. :wink:

 

[MaxOut]

I am leaning towards buying new and getting torsion axles, disc brakes, all stainless bolts/hardware

That is the way I would lean. :wink:

Me too. Based on your description you would have to replace the entire trailer except the frame. It would probably end up costing the same money with allot of headaches not including your time. Look around at all the trailers and price them. I am sure you will come across a beautiful aluminum bunk trailer for less money than a good steel roller and that is when the decision will get tough. The Parker is a heavy boat and it is not recommended that you build an aluminum roller. If I had to do it all over again I would still get a steel roller trailer with lots of rollers (the more the better), disc brakes on both axles, torsion axles, oil filled hubs, ALL LED lights, electric over hydraulic controller and RC-30 power winch with remote. BUT I would not have gotten an EZ-Loader. And this is why-

1. The tires EZ-Loader uses must have been stolen from the dumpster behind the tire factory as the look like "Maypops" with seams clearly/dangerously visible on all 4 tires. I have 4 spares now.

2. The galvanizing is uneven at best and the trailer looked 10 years old when I received it new (not even a year ago). The hubs are rusted and oil is clouded with water every other trip. Good thing it is easy to drain and replace the motor oil in them. Tried a larger O ring and has not failed yet. (Dealer couldn't figure this one out). Told me to wait 15 minute when I get to the boat ramp for the hubs to cool before launching??? Yah right. Obviously he is not a fisherman.

3. When I received the trailer it was set up from EZ-loader and they did not tighten the winch tower bolts well, the boat pushed and twisted the winch tower the first time out with it and crushed a $450.00 winch. Safety issue? I think so. Luckily I limped home only a few miles away. Dealer did come to me to fix it. A little persuasion was needed (Johnny Cochran)

4. Did I mention this was my second trailer in the first year? The dealer sold me a #6500 trailer with drum brakes and I was having problems with the hubs getting Really Hot . The dealer said they sell this trailer all the time for this boat and was normal. Hmmm. Well after 3 or 4 trips to the dealer with water in the hubs and temps so high it would curl the hair on your leg when you walked by. I took the trailer with the boat to a weigh station as my math added up to more than #6500 and as I suspected #7800. Hence the heated hubs were overloaded. Safety Issue? I finally ponied up the money for the trailer described above ($8000.00 deep now).

If I had to do it all over I would not have purchased an EZ-Loader. They are way overpriced and would expect better quality. I have had a custom aluminum bunk trailer made for a 35' Cat with discs, torsion, LED, alloy wheels and all the goodies for $4500.00 2 years ago that performed excellent and made the EZ-Loader look like a heap of trash.


OK, I am done venting...Hope this helps in some way?

 

[B-Faithful]

Unfortunately my boat comes with a Venture bunk trailer with drum breaks and leaf springs. I dont mind the leaf springs as much as the drum breaks. They will be swapped out by next season.

Personally, I want a loadrite roller trailer but that isnt in the budget yet and I worked a boat, motor, trailer deal.

http://www.loadrite.com/Boat_Trailers/R ... Roller/85/

 

[esfishdoc]

Unfortunately my boat comes with a Venture bunk trailer with drum breaks and leaf springs. I dont mind the leaf springs as much as the drum breaks. They will be swapped out by next season.

Personally, I want a loadrite roller trailer but that isnt in the budget yet and I worked a boat, motor, trailer deal.

http://www.loadrite.com/Boat_Trailers/R ... Roller/85/

Spend the extra money on Kodiak... avoid TieDown.....

 

[MaxOut]

. The Parker is a heavy boat and it is not recommended that you build an aluminum roller.

HUH? :?

When in pursuit of the perfect trailer I enquired about making a aluminum roller trailer for my Parker and several builders said No. Including EZ-Loader?? There reason was Quote "the rollers do not distribute the weight evenly when loading and unloading on an un even ramp and the aluminum twisted in there testing" I got the same answer from a couple builders and decided to go back to Steel. I did hear of a company afterwards that built them in NC but at this point I was out of the market and did not pursue it. I think from an engineering stand point it can be done but...Ive never tried it. I would like to see a Stainless Steel trailer. That Would Be Sweeeeeeet!