Can't get prime

[TheOtherLine]

Just finished the install on the kicker. I removed the old filter head, removed the blue separator, poured out the gas that was in it and removed the hoses.

Put all the correct fittings on the the new stainless head, got all the fuel hoses plugged in, put a little oil on the seal and reinstalled the same filter as it is just 1 month old. From all the advice I got from CP members, everything seems to be plugged in where it's supposed to be.

BUT I can't get any fuel to the kicker. I have pumped that ball like I was giving blood....

Actually, I can't either ball pumped up like it supposed to be.

What am I doing wrong? Air in the line? How do I get it out?

Will it not draw fuel until the fuel separator is totally full?

 

[TomS]

It sounds silly, but try putting the ball straight up and down when you pump, such that the side that faces the engine is pointing straight up.

-- Tom

 

[grouperjim]

you'll never get it prime by hand so the bulb is hard...........doesn't matter anyway. the electric fuel pump on the f250 will charge the fuel lines instantly once you start it.

make sure you don't over tighten the clamps on the fuel lines. the clamps will cut into the lines if you do. also, there are special clamps (more expensive) that are slightly flared on the edges that won't cut into the lines.

 

[TheOtherLine]

bty, get rid of that 90 degree elbow, greatly reduces fuel flow.

Yammie tech told me to use it. Said it's better than getting a kink in the line from the gravity. If it were on the inside he said I could zip tie/screw it to the sides and use a straight one.

He also told me that they rig it exactly that way. :? I dunno.....

 

[TheOtherLine]

make sure you don't over tighten the clamps on the fuel lines. the clamps will cut into the lines if you do. also, there are special clamps (more expensive) that are slightly flared on the edges that won't cut into the lines.

You know what.....I knew that there were different clamps and now I can't remember which ones I picked up.

And I think I did overtighten

Nothing like doing a job twice :x :x :x

 

[TheOtherLine]

... primer balls check valve will stop fuel flow backwards.

I'm trying to cut off fuel flow to the kicker. Are we talking about the same thing?

 

[DaleH]

It sounds silly, but try putting the ball straight up and down when you pump, such that the side that faces the engine is pointing straight up.

Its not silly at all. That's how they're DESIGNED to function!

There is a check valve in them that needs to seat properly to create the vacuum. The OB end should always be HIGHER than the rest of the line, the higher the better.

 

[grouperjim]

Yes, the motor might prime itself w/its' electric fuel pump. First, it has to suck fuel up line from tank, fill quart size filter. There are some of us who had rather prime and fill manually than to run dry a somewhat problematic and expen$ive electric pump.

there is plenty of fuel in the filter bowl located under the engine cowl to keep the pumps well fed until the fuel/water separator fills.

 

[John_Madison CT]

Regarding your fuel line to the kicker. I once read a story about a guy not able to keep a prime to his 9.9hp Yamaha kicker. He was using 3/8" fuel hose, the standard stuff.

Anyway, after a lot of messing around with other stuff, he finally determined that the 3/8" fuel line was too big for the small engine.

He switched to 1/4" hose and the problem went away. I mounted mine with 1/4" hose too.

 

[TheOtherLine]

Regarding your fuel line to the kicker. I once read a story about a guy not able to keep a prime to his 9.9hp Yamaha kicker. He was using 3/8" fuel hose, the standard stuff.

Anyway, after a lot of messing around with other stuff, he finally determined that the 3/8" fuel line was too big for the small engine.

He switched to 1/4" hose and the problem went away. I mounted mine with 1/4" hose too.

I didn't change the fuel lines. The main fuel line coming from the tank and going to the F250 is stock 3/8ths. The fuel line for the kicker is 1/4" .

Anyway, I couldn't find a 3/8 two way valve that would work with the stock separator head. So, I bought the stainless steel one. It had 1/4" ports. So, for the main lines I used a 1/4" thread and 3/8ths barb and for the kicker I used the 1/4" thread and 1/4" barb.

I hope the 1/4 threads and ports on the separator don't reduce the performance of the main motor.

 

[Megabyte]

make sure you don't over tighten the clamps on the fuel lines. the clamps will cut into the lines if you do. also, there are special clamps (more expensive) that are slightly flared on the edges that won't cut into the lines.

They are called AWAB clamps, and they look like this:

I use em on my boat.

 

[TheOtherLine]

make sure you don't over tighten the clamps on the fuel lines. the clamps will cut into the lines if you do. also, there are special clamps (more expensive) that are slightly flared on the edges that won't cut into the lines.

They are called AWAB clamps, and they look like this:

I use em on my boat.

I did over tighten. Went and bought the AWAB's. Now I've got to muster the energy to take the other ones off and put the AWABs on. I spent most of the weekend putting that d%#M kicker on and I need a break from it. Maybe later this week.....

 

[DaleH]

To be technical, AWAB or any other 'hose' clamp is actually an inferior clamp for OB fuel lines, as the line OD tends to be so small that the 'flat' portion where the threaded part of the hose clamp is actually can cause a flat spot that 'may' create an air leak.

Most OB makers use fuel line clamps of 2 types. Either round-wire clamps that are squeeze-to-fit or thin flat coil-types that are 1-time use only. Some use plastic ones, but if you notice, the housing feature is round to match the OD of the line it secures.