Cleaning oxygen sensor on 1999 225 ox66

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fishing818

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I have never cleaned sensor(I know pretty dumb, just never knew it was needed) in years and not even sure it has ever been done during maintenance that had been done by mechanics. I was reading a blog recently and saw that a issue I was ignoring when it happened occasionally(rpms lowering on its own, but easily fixed by push on throttle)was a sure tell sign of a dirty sensor. I will be cleaning myself and it doesn't sound too complicated but believe me I am NO mechanic, just trying to save a few bucks these days. Any help or instructions on how to do and what NOT to do will be appreciated. Thank you for help on milky gearbox(found leaky seal with vacuum test) and changing popit valve(holy crap,water never pumped so good,$15 fix)Thank you .Steve .
 
We did this last year on my 2000 ox66 225 HP. Its a fairly easy job. If cleaning let soak in yamaha combustion cleaner for at least 24 hours, DO NOT let the electrode get submerged into the cleaner. Make sure to clean the sniffer tube thoroughly using a pipe cleaner. If it looks really bad you may want to change it out. the sensors are not cheap however.

This is a good link the guy explains in good detail how to do the job. Let me know if you have any questions.

http://www.bbcboards.net/yamaha-motors/ ... moval.html
 
Also see this article attached, by noted internet OB guru Bill Grannis, on servicing the Yummie OX66 O2 sensor.
 

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  • Yummie O2 Sensor.pdf
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Make sure you have a new gasket kit ready, you will need it.

After you remove the plastic outer cover and have disconnected the two electrical connectors, use a wrench to loosen the O2 sensor while it is still attached to the engine block (like you would a sparkplug). Once you have loosened it a quarter turn or so, then remove the sensor housing, along with the attached sensor from the engine block. Be careful not to lose the O2 sensor draw tube which will be resting in the engine block and may get pulled out when you remove the sensor case.

Once you have removed the metal sensor housing, unscrew and remove the sensor itself.

If it is really gunked up, I would carefully use a small screwdriver to scrape, gouge, etc.. the majority of the built up carbon off before soaking the end of the sensor in some sort of cleaner, being careful not to get any of the loose carbon chunks in the holes on the sensor itself. Then soak as stated above to help soften up the rest of the carbon and clean it as best you can.

Make sure you also clean the sensor draw tube, again use a screwdriver to scrape off all the excess carbon. Twist a small drill bit by hand through the center of the draw tube to remove the built up carbon there. Start small and increase the bit size as you go.

Also look at the metal sensor housing itself, you will probably find a lot of excess carbon in there as well.. same routine, carefully scrape as much as you can away, then soak and repeat to get things as clean as possible.

Scrape off the old gasket, replace it with a new one and then re-install the same way you took it off.. hand tighten the sensor into the metal housing, then mount the metal housing on the engine block (don't forget draw tube) and tighten up the sensor in the housing. Re-install the plastic cover, re-connect the two electrical connectors, etc..

EDIT: Just looked at the BBCboard forum post. Check your engine parts diagram to see whether you have a metal and rubber o-ring around the draw tube. My engine does not have those. Also, you don't need the fancy cut out socket to remove.. You can use a 22mm wrench, but I find that a pair of adjustable pliers works best (not vice grips).

-- Tom
 
I think it can depend on how the engine is running - but on my immaculately maintained and tuned engine (cough, cough) it can get quite gunked up within 150-200 hours, to the point where the entire draw tube and most of the sensor itself is pretty gunked up with carbon. YMMV, but that is the case with my engine which runs Yamalube and Ring Free about 50% of the time, has the oil control rod adjusted, new LP fuel pumps, t-stats, water pump, etc.. every 2 years, etc..

-- Tom
 
Thanks again for everyone's help. Great response. Going to tackle this one slow, step by step(little more work then just blowing off dust lol)and it should go good. I think this is going to nice improvement in performance. I always use ring free but usually use cheaper oil. I was told there was no real difference in oil(unless under warranty) because the label reads ' oil meets or exceeds standards". Any thoughts on that? Next question. Make sure Oil control arm is properly adjusted? No idea how I would know if it is or how to do. Patience with me guys lol.Just beginning to learn how to do easier tasks myself((keep down costs) and leave tough jobs to the pros.Steve
 
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