Deck replacement - how to remove base of step-down console in 23 DVCC?

[captmatt]

Unfortunately, my 2013 Parker 23 DVCC has a wet deck. The core saturation is extensive as documented by a Parker dealer and two independent fiberglass shops.

To fix it properly, the t-top and the center console will need to be removed. The boat has the newer style step-down console that is assembled like a shoe box - the bottom part of the box goes into the deck between the stringers with a rim that rests on top of the deck, while the top section of the console slips over the base part and is bolted to the bottom part.

Has any one ever take one of these apart? Any suggestions on how to approach this?

I was thinking of trying to keep the t-top and the upper part of the console together and remove them from the bottom as a unit. Then I could use wooden wedges to try to lift and separate the bottom part of the console.

An alternative is to cut around the perimeter of the bottom part of the console enough to fully expose the deck underneath. Once the deck is replaced then the console base can be re-fiberglassed.

I do not want to destroy the console base or top section in the process! But I want to be able to remove all the original plywood under the console base. I also want to be 100% certain that no water can enter there as that is the origin of the water that saturated the core.

Any suggestions?

 

[MartyL]

Sorrry to hear about your problem... I do not have any suggestions on how to accomplish what you want to do but am curious if you know how the deck came to be saturated on an eight year old boat.

 

[warthog5]

In the past.......I've had this problem.....All Fasteners removed. Console will not budge cause it glued down with 5200.....Thats when you break out your Multimaster tool and work at cutting that bond in the joint apart.....

 

[captmatt]

I am thinking a multi-tool with a scraper blade, wedges, anti-bond spray, and using stranded wire and some wooden handles as a saw. Oh, and liberal use of salty language!

 

[captmatt]

Why the deck is saturated is a matter of debate and disagreement. I would rather avoid that subject and focus more on the possible fix. I will say that the boat has not been cut or altered and is assembled as it came out of the factory. The water intrusion in all directions originates under the console, not isolated spots that originate from the screw penetrations for the t-top legs or the inspection plates.

Draw your own conclusions.

Sorrry to hear about your problem... I do not have any suggestions on how to accomplish what you want to do but am curious if you know how the deck came to be saturated on an eight year old boat.

 

[camron]

Are you handling the deck replacement yourself?

 

[captmatt]

I hope not! I would like to hire a shop to replace the deck with coosa and spray gelcoat. However, no one wants to tackle the console. I do not see how the deck can be replaced fully without removing the console and addressing where the water intrusion originates. I may end up removing the console myself and then having a fiberglass specialist replace the deck.

Are you handling the deck replacement yourself?

 

[warthog5]

No One wants to handle the console, because you are hiring them to do a floor......Now they will be involved in wiring. That opens up a BIG can of worms that will let them make money or loose money......Believe me....They will loose.

 

[Efx]

I have seen consoles with all the screws removed and I mean all, some are hidden, not budge a 16th of an inch. After all screws are removed, especially the tub to the stringers,take straps and hooks under the console, routed to the lip under the console, and then use a hoist or fork lift to pull on the console just slightly. The use 2x4 wedges hammered in between deck and console to break the bond. Wait until it pops off. It’s not an easy task. If it doesn’t pop, the tub maybe glasses or bond to the stringers. The tub may need to stay there and you pop off the shoebox lid only. It’s trial and error.

I have a 1994 Parker and I believe it would be saturated also, but it’s in Southern California so everything drys out fast and it’s a trailer boat with a tall front jack stand so it’s tilted steeply to drain. Any boat that holds water will rot fast. Florida boats rot much faster. I have two of them and they are under cover.
Good luck. You will know every inch of the boat after this task is complete.

 

[BradH]

If you're replacing the deck, why not cut the deck around the perimeter of the console, and pull the deck section up with the console? For all we know the top layer of glass will separate from the wet wood. Then you can attack the deck remnants, maybe even lay the console on it's side.

 

[Inshore Chaser]

Do you expect Parkers 10 yr hull warranty to cover this expense? It should...

 

[052520]

Should be warranty all day long … ?!?! Aftermarket T top ?

 

[captmatt]

Hull warranty is five years, not ten.

Do you expect Parkers 10 yr hull warranty to cover this expense? It should...

 

[MartyL]

Don't know what it was in 2013 but the warranty that came with my 2018 from Perma Panel says it is a Lifetime warranty to original purchaser and 10 years for the next owner from the boats original purchase date.

 

[GoodChance]

Sorry to see this Matt.

Something is definitely afoul from the factory on this one ..... you are meticulous with your equipment.

 

[Bodick93]

Do you expect Parkers 10 yr hull warranty to cover this expense? It should...

No kidding!