Electrical Question

[rseate]

So a few weeks back I had rough trip which resulted in quite a bit of sea water entering the bilge. A couple of weeks after this outing I noticed that when I turned my battery switch off I heard an “electrical pumping” sound from my vhf. I then noticed that when I turned my battery switch off power continued to flow to the “house”. I removed the battery switch and it was severely corroded on the back where the contacts are. I cleaned the entire area, wire brushed the ends of all cables, installed new battery switch, and sprayed every connection with CRC terminal protector. Took the boat out a week later and everything performed perfectly. Fast forward to today - I stopped by the boat to do a software update on the Garmins. When I turned the battery switch here comes the “pumping” sound again through the vhf. And yes, the power is once again coming through the battery switch regardless of the position it’s in.
All comments welcome!

 

[dcunniff]

The internals may be corroded too. Decide whether to take it apart if you can, or start over?

And is your bilge pump OK?

Dana

 

[rseate]

The internals may be corroded too. Decide whether to take it apart if you can, or start over?

And is your bilge pump OK?

Dana

I replaced the whole switch.
Replaced bilge & float switch

 

[Brent]

Check radio wiring , ground and inline fuse if present

 

[Brent]

Inspect and clean battery cables on motor side and should be tight

 

[rseate]

Inspect and clean battery cables on motor side and should be tight

Did that as well

 

[pelagic2530]

You've got some troubleshooting to do.

First: Make sure that your battery switch is wired correctly. Download new installation diagrams from the manufacturer if you don't still have the ones that came with the new switch. Don't assume that just because the old switch was wired that way, that it was ever correct or that the new one needs to be wired the same way. If you have a multimeter, check to see if you have voltage/continuity at the output terminal of the switch when it's off; it's unlikely but possible you got a bad switch.

Second: Check your battery terminals. Make sure you know exactly what each connection on the positive posts of your batteries goes to. If you've got voltage bypassing the switch (and the switch is working correctly), it has to be coming from something that's energized from the battery. You might have two positive wires that are chafed through and making contact, so that power is being fed from one circuit to another. If the problem is constant (i.e. the "house" power stays on all the time, and not intermittently) and you can rule out the switch, you could start pulling terminals off the batteries one at a time. When the house electronics lose power, you've found the circuit that's feeding them.

Third (you should do this anyway): Start digging into your electrical system. It's worth it to know where everything goes and what it does.

Does everything on your house circuit have power when the switch is off, or just some items or sub-panels (switch panel, fuse panel, etc.)? If it's just a couple things... definitely need to trace wiring and see where they're wired to get power from. If it's all the circuits, you need to know where that wiring feeding the fuse block and/or switch panel is going.​

I admittedly just started doing this with my 2530 (should have done it years ago). I'm ASTOUNDED by how poorly this thing is wired. Lots of shortcuts, very little attention to detail, lots of "one size fits all" work (which it never does). If I wasn't replacing most of it anyway, I'd definitely reworking it. I can't fathom how we haven't had major electrical issues yet, given the state of the electrical system. Truly disappointing to see from Parker, albeit a mid-90's boat.

In your case, my money is on a mis-wired/malfunctioning switch. But if there's damage to the wiring somewhere that's transferring voltage, that's something that you need to find out about ASAP.

 

[pelagic2530]

Also... can you better describe the "pumping" sound you're getting from the VHF? Is it doing this when the switch is ON as well as OFF? Is it constant when the switch is OFF? Is the unit otherwise powered on (display, backlight, etc.)?

 

[rseate]

You've got some troubleshooting to do.

First: Make sure that your battery switch is wired correctly. Download new installation diagrams from the manufacturer if you don't still have the ones that came with the new switch. Don't assume that just because the old switch was wired that way, that it was ever correct or that the new one needs to be wired the same way. If you have a multimeter, check to see if you have voltage/continuity at the output terminal of the switch when it's off; it's unlikely but possible you got a bad switch.

Second: Check your battery terminals. Make sure you know exactly what each connection on the positive posts of your batteries goes to. If you've got voltage bypassing the switch (and the switch is working correctly), it has to be coming from something that's energized from the battery. You might have two positive wires that are chafed through and making contact, so that power is being fed from one circuit to another. If the problem is constant (i.e. the "house" power stays on all the time, and not intermittently) and you can rule out the switch, you could start pulling terminals off the batteries one at a time. When the house electronics lose power, you've found the circuit that's feeding them.

Third (you should do this anyway): Start digging into your electrical system. It's worth it to know where everything goes and what it does.

Does everything on your house circuit have power when the switch is off, or just some items or sub-panels (switch panel, fuse panel, etc.)? If it's just a couple things... definitely need to trace wiring and see where they're wired to get power from. If it's all the circuits, you need to know where that wiring feeding the fuse block and/or switch panel is going.​

I admittedly just started doing this with my 2530 (should have done it years ago). I'm ASTOUNDED by how poorly this thing is wired. Lots of shortcuts, very little attention to detail, lots of "one size fits all" work (which it never does). If I wasn't replacing most of it anyway, I'd definitely reworking it. I can't fathom how we haven't had major electrical issues yet, given the state of the electrical system. Truly disappointing to see from Parker, albeit a mid-90's boat.

In your case, my money is on a mis-wired/malfunctioning switch. But if there's damage to the wiring somewhere that's transferring voltage, that's something that you need to find out about ASAP.

When I installed the new switch I made sure to check all circuits and everything functioned properly. I made sure to only wire the “house” back to the switch (position 1) first and made sure that when I switched the switch to off all current flow through the switch stopped. I did the same when I reconnected the engine (position 2) then checked when the switch was at position “all”. I took the boat out on a fishing trip and everything worked perfectly.

The “pumping” sound is like the sound the needle on a turntable makes when you first put it on the record (sorry, I’m old, the best example I can give).

Mine is a 2015 but I agree, the wiring is crap. I ordered a Rodan trolling motor and 36v lithium battery. I think I’m just going to pull all the old wiring out when it comes in and start from scratch

 

[rseate]

Also... can you better describe the "pumping" sound you're getting from the VHF? Is it doing this when the switch is ON as well as OFF? Is it constant when the switch is OFF? Is the unit otherwise powered on (display, backlight, etc.)?

It only does it when I turn the switch off and is constant.

I’m fortunate; where my boat is stored they have an electrician, fiberglass guy, and mechanic on site. I called the electrician and turned him loose on it. He said he’d get to it in the next week or so. I’ll post the results

 

[pelagic2530]

It only does it when I turn the switch off and is constant.

I’m fortunate; where my boat is stored they have an electrician, fiberglass guy, and mechanic on site. I called the electrician and turned him loose on it. He said he’d get to it in the next week or so. I’ll post the results

I'll be very interested to see what he comes up with.

You can't go wrong with a total rip-out and rewire, but man does it dip into the pocket book. Against my better judgement, I'm mostly just doing the main distribution (batteries, battery cables, switch, breakers and wires to the helm panels and windlass) and leaving the rest for now. That's more a time issue than money, but anything of this type turns into a major project really quickly.

 

[warthog5]

Understanding a Perko Switch:

The statement above about House and Engine is incorrect.
With a Perko switch....which ever position you select....Your just pulling power from that Battery #1.....#2 or Both batteries combined in Parallel when it's in "BOTH"
You do Not have a dedicated "House Battery" or Dedicated "Start Battery". No matter what you select it's providing Power to Both House and Start aka Engine.

This is why....and I know you have seen it....I push the install of a BEP Cluster....Which does separate the 2

 

[HOTPURSUIT]

Not sure if this is the problem and what model you have but it’s worth checking. I have a 2003 2520xl. A few years ago things started going a bit whacky with my gauges and such. Someone on here told me to check the aft buss bar and that it is hard to find as it is mounted where you cannot see it. I had to feel around to find it. It was totally corroded. There was enough slack in the wiring to relocate it where I could see it. I have an old post on it with some picks. That buss bar is a negative terminal bar loose negatives do whacky stuff

 

[rseate]

Understanding a Perko Switch:

The statement above about House and Engine is incorrect.
With a Perko switch....which ever position you select....Your just pulling power from that Battery #1.....#2 or Both batteries combined in Parallel when it's in "BOTH"
You do Not have a dedicated "House Battery" or Dedicated "Start Battery". No matter what you select it's providing Power to Both House and Start aka Engine.

This is why....and I know you have seen it....I push the install of a BEP Cluster....Which does separate the 2

This is the new switch that was installed and I’m pretty sure the cluster is as your diagram. I attached a picture after I removed the old switch. If I’m incorrect I’d appreciate your feedback so that I can make the proper corrections!

 

[sailmaster]

bit of a nutter about bilge pump wiring notice the nice diagram from warthog has a float switch
I have refused to install float switches for almost 40 years
I believe in a brand of solid state switches after spending ten days at a boat show in the booth next to theirs
Have found another brand where the cycle is built in to the pump and have about ten of them in service in my smaller boats
presume I am not supposed to mention brand names

 

[IrishAyes]

Cut your wires open at the lugs, negative especially, and see what corrosion you have under the insulation. All that green at the lug and heat shrink indicates you may have corrosion under the insulation. Many times that is the source of the problem. Then install and seal new lugs on the wire ends.

 

[warthog5]

bit of a nutter about bilge pump wiring notice the nice diagram from warthog has a float switch
I have refused to install float switches for almost 40 years
I believe in a brand of solid state switches after spending ten days at a boat show in the booth next to theirs

Thats fine.....The ones I use are the Rule caged model....The Rule-A-Matic PLUS. I don't use that style in the pix, but this really wasn't about Float switches.

 

[warthog5]

This is the new switch that was installed and I’m pretty sure the cluster is as your diagram.

Your words are a Lil confusing. When you put "Cluster" in there. You have a Perko switch....It is as the drawing I posted.....It is NOT like a BEP Cluster.......Called a Cluster because it is multi switches and a Relay all Clustered together in a neat package that interlocks together.

https://www.bepmarine.com/en/~/media/inriver/327549-18219.pdf

 

[rseate]

Your words are a Lil confusing. When you put "Cluster" in there. You have a Perko switch....It is as the drawing I posted.....It is NOT like a BEP Cluster.......Called a Cluster because it is multi switches and a Relay all Clustered together in a neat package that interlocks together.

https://www.bepmarine.com/en/~/media/inriver/327549-18219.pdf

Agree, poor choice of words.