Finally upgrading electronics on 21SE, sticking with Garmin

[Double Hall]

I bought the boat new in 2020, with the factory installed electronics, that consisted of Garmin 942xs and Airmar B60 through hull transducer. I know the unit is capable of more, but factory transducer limits it.

I want a larger screen for splitting up nav and fish finder, really want more capable transducer, and need to add radar. New boating location on Cape Cod is proving fog is going to be part of my morning boating, and marking birds on other side of islands would be fantastic.

I'm handy, rebuilt a vehicle before, but don't weld which questions ttop mount. I would like to tackle this DIY if possible. I have never cut a hole in a boat. Through hull transducer gives me pause. I don't understand fairing block install as I haven't seen one before.

What screen should I go with for primary? 8612 overkill on resolution? Any features I'd miss out on over 1243? I'm a fly fisherman and light tackle that takes family out quite a bit. I'll replace existing unit with new, move current unit to VHF location, and relocate VHF under it I think. I want to network both so either can leverage radar or better transducer. XHD 18 likely the right choice.

Looking for feedback or if anyone wants to travel to Cape to install

 

[Dleopoldi914]

Here is what I did to my setup, I added an external transducer.

The one included with the boat didn’t do chirp or side scan, then I bought another 9 inch garmin and moved my radio down.I like having two independent screens rather than the split

. I bought the 94sv which doesn’t come loaded with maps and saved a lot of money.

You can get them with a good transducer for like $500.


Lastly I upgraded my maps to vision plus and with it I get the topography of all the wrecks and rocks, plus an autoguidanxe feature to guide me through messed up places

 

[Dleopoldi914]

https://nebulio.shop/product/garmin...scope-bundle-preloaded-us-lakev-g3-w-gt56uhd/

 

[Double Hall]

Here is what I did to my setup, I added an external transducer.

The one included with the boat didn’t do chirp or side scan, then I bought another 9 inch garmin and moved my radio down.I like having two independent screens rather than the split

. I bought the 94sv which doesn’t come loaded with maps and saved a lot of money.

You can get them with a good transducer for like $500.


Lastly I upgraded my maps to vision plus and with it I get the topography of all the wrecks and rocks, plus an autoguidanxe feature to guide me through messed up places

View attachment 37987

Any pics of transducer mount? Thinking of doing transom for simplicity.

 

[Dleopoldi914]

Any pics of transducer mount? Thinking of doing transom for simplicity.

Yea it’s a transom mount and no I don’t have pictures.

I love my setup….

 

[warthog5]

Do Not do what Dleopoldi did.

You have a Airmar B 60 from the factory. Why do they install them? So they can say you have a "Thruhull X-Ducer" Oooooo Ahhhh!

It's the cheapest Non Chirp X-Ducer. A bunch of manufactures are doing this now.

You want a Airmar B175M. That is my go to here on the Gulf Coast for people that want a 1000W X-Ducer. Forget about Fairing Blocks.

There is No fairing block on Tilted Element X-Ducers. You just need to know the deadrise. If you look about 12in to 18in from the B 60 there will be a tag on the cable. I bet it reads "B-60-20" That is for 20degs deadrise.... It "Could" read "B-60-12" .

You remove the B-60 .... tie a rope /cord to X-Ducer cable when you pull it out.

You will have a hole in the boat that measures slightly over 2in.

Use 5min epoxy and tab glue a piece of 3/8 or 1/2in scrap plywood over the hole.

The B 175M is going to need a 3 3/4in hole. Use the giant nut as a guide inside the the bilge. Make sure it has a spot to sit flat ... You may be able to just center that Big nut over existing hole..... Or you mat have to off set it? I don't know....I'm not there.
The plywood is to drill a 1/4in hole in and be the center point for your new 3 3/4in hole. I'm sure you do not have a 3 3/4in holesaw. BUY ONE! I've seen Hacks that used a jig saw. You will need a 2in drum sander to open that 3 3/4in hole ever so slightly. Drill the hole from Outside the hull so its straight with the deadrise angle. Arrow point at KEEL..... Not Forward like other X-ducers.

https://www.airmar.com/Catalog/Marine/Chirp-ready/Thru-hull/B175M
Order the Mix and Match for Garmin. I suggest BOE Marine. Been doing business with Jim for 20+ years.

 

[warthog5]

Pix #1 & 2 is where a Hack got a hold of this Grady White. You will note the not so round hole. This was done at a Marine dealer in Ft Walton Beach, Fl. That hole had to be repaired. Not only was it a hack job.... It was in the wrong place and Sonar would loose bottom. Pix 3 and on is My work.

 

[Double Hall]

Do Not do what Dleopoldi did.

You have a Airmar B 60 from the factory. Why do they install them? So they can say you have a "Thruhull X-Ducer" Oooooo Ahhhh!

It's the cheapest Non Chirp X-Ducer. A bunch of manufactures are doing this now.

You want a Airmar B175M. That is my go to here on the Gulf Coast for people that want a 1000W X-Ducer. Forget about Fairing Blocks.

There is No fairing block on Tilted Element X-Ducers. You just need to know the deadrise. If you look about 12in to 18in from the B 60 there will be a tag on the cable. I bet it reads "B-60-20" That is for 20degs deadrise.... It "Could" read "B-60-12" .

You remove the B-60 .... tie a rope /cord to X-Ducer cable when you pull it out.

You will have a hole in the boat that measures slightly over 2in.

Use 5min epoxy and tab glue a piece of 3/8 or 1/2in scrap plywood over the hole.

The B 175M is going to need a 3 3/4in hole. Use the giant nut as a guide inside the the bilge. Make sure it has a spot to sit flat ... You may be able to just center that Big nut over existing hole..... Or you mat have to off set it? I don't know....I'm not there.
The plywood is to drill a 1/4in hole in and be the center point for your new 3 3/4in hole. I'm sure you do not have a 3 3/4in holesaw. BUY ONE! I've seen Hacks that used a jig saw. You will need a 2in drum sander to open that 3 3/4in hole ever so slightly. Drill the hole from Outside the hull so its straight with the deadrise angle. Arrow point at KEEL..... Not Forward like other X-ducers.

https://www.airmar.com/Catalog/Marine/Chirp-ready/Thru-hull/B175M
Order the Mix and Match for Garmin. I suggest BOE Marine. Been doing business with Jim for 20+ years.

Thanks for the response, very logical on the install. Why this transducer? ClearVu and SideVu sound like nice upgrades sticking with Garmin. This would gain neither?

1243xs and 18 xHD may be my path forward for other devices, networked to existing unit. That should at least get ClearVu on existing 942, and would gain chirp with Garmin transducer. I was thinking of leaving B60 in place for redundancy as it never loses bottom.

This boat has never 200', and I won't be fishing deeper than 150', usually in 20' or less around sand bars.

 

[John G]

I bought the boat new in 2020, with the factory installed electronics, that consisted of Garmin 942xs and Airmar B60 through hull transducer. I know the unit is capable of more, but factory transducer limits it.

I want a larger screen for splitting up nav and fish finder, really want more capable transducer, and need to add radar. New boating location on Cape Cod is proving fog is going to be part of my morning boating, and marking birds on other side of islands would be fantastic.

I'm handy, rebuilt a vehicle before, but don't weld which questions ttop mount. I would like to tackle this DIY if possible. I have never cut a hole in a boat. Through hull transducer gives me pause. I don't understand fairing block install as I haven't seen one before.

What screen should I go with for primary? 8612 overkill on resolution? Any features I'd miss out on over 1243? I'm a fly fisherman and light tackle that takes family out quite a bit. I'll replace existing unit with new, move current unit to VHF location, and relocate VHF under it I think. I want to network both so either can leverage radar or better transducer. XHD 18 likely the right choice.

Looking for feedback or if anyone wants to travel to Cape to install

My 2016 23SE came with the same units. Last year the power switch started sticking and became unreliable. I upgraded to the GPSMAP® 1042xsv ( don't like the older unit's touch controls, difficult in any kind of chop) with a Garmin GT51M-TM transom mount transducer. So far I'm very happy with both. I decided to leave the old units in place which avoided having to repair the thru hull transducer hole and gives me a separate nav/sonar screen when the 942 is working. I hate holes beneath the water line, so I glued a Stern Saver to my transom for the new transducer. That has worked well too.

 

[Dleopoldi914]

Do Not do what Dleopoldi did.

You have a Airmar B 60 from the factory. Why do they install them? So they can say you have a "Thruhull X-Ducer" Oooooo Ahhhh!

It's the cheapest Non Chirp X-Ducer. A bunch of manufactures are doing this now.

You want a Airmar B175M. That is my go to here on the Gulf Coast for people that want a 1000W X-Ducer. Forget about Fairing Blocks.

There is No fairing block on Tilted Element X-Ducers. You just need to know the deadrise. If you look about 12in to 18in from the B 60 there will be a tag on the cable. I bet it reads "B-60-20" That is for 20degs deadrise.... It "Could" read "B-60-12" .

You remove the B-60 .... tie a rope /cord to X-Ducer cable when you pull it out.

You will have a hole in the boat that measures slightly over 2in.

Use 5min epoxy and tab glue a piece of 3/8 or 1/2in scrap plywood over the hole.

The B 175M is going to need a 3 3/4in hole. Use the giant nut as a guide inside the the bilge. Make sure it has a spot to sit flat ... You may be able to just center that Big nut over existing hole..... Or you mat have to off set it? I don't know....I'm not there.
The plywood is to drill a 1/4in hole in and be the center point for your new 3 3/4in hole. I'm sure you do not have a 3 3/4in holesaw. BUY ONE! I've seen Hacks that used a jig saw. You will need a 2in drum sander to open that 3 3/4in hole ever so slightly. Drill the hole from Outside the hull so its straight with the deadrise angle. Arrow point at KEEL..... Not Forward like other X-ducers.

https://www.airmar.com/Catalog/Marine/Chirp-ready/Thru-hull/B175M
Order the Mix and Match for Garmin. I suggest BOE Marine. Been doing business with Jim for 20+ years.

WHy not do what I did? for $500 I got an extra screen that is networkable, and I didn't have to remove my old transducer but simply just disconnect it (Its a backup).

I gained Chirp and side view.

I get it you can order a better through hull but through hulls are pricey. $900 for the higher end thru hull like you suggested.

I also love the double screen and I have two 9 inch screens now which is 18 inches of screen space, To me that is bigger than running 1 12 inch split. The Console as looks cool with 2 screens.

Just my opinion.

As for the b60 its typical in line with how parker builds these boats. The accessories they use are crap, I wish they gave you the option to update them.

 

[warthog5]

This boat has never 200', and I won't be fishing deeper than 150', usually in 20' or less around sand bars.

Then I wouldn't even bother. The 1000watt upgrade is to go deeper and gain CHIRP..
It's not just Parker putting the cheap B60's in. Other manufactures are doing it too. It's a disservice to the end user. it's a 200/50hz Only.... No Chirp.... And yet they install Chirp MFD's. But manufactures do NOT care. Kinda the same with Pumps... Sticking Sureflow aka "No Flow" pumps in a boat... They All do it.... Lucky if you get 2yrs out of it.

My builds are never cheap.... They are QUALITY.

Cables running over a transom are Ugly.....and Especially Ugly if it's a Bracketed boat.

Totally agree on 2 - 9in screens as apposed to 1- 12in.
Screen in front of helm has Nav....Other screen has Sonar.

 

[warthog5]

On a side note about the Airmar B-60.

I waited with baited breath for this to get my hands on it. Airmar had a add on their website "Coming Soon". Well that add was there for 2yrs. I was one of the first ones to install one of these. I partisapated on The Hull Truth back then. It had 8 pages of discussion and BS LOL.

It was the FIRST tilted element X-Ducer. CHIRP wasn't even a word back then.
This was 2 decades ago.

 

[Double Hall]

Then I wouldn't even bother. The 1000watt upgrade is to go deeper and gain CHIRP..
It's not just Parker putting the cheap B60's in. Other manufactures are doing it too. It's a disservice to the end user. it's a 200/50hz Only.... No Chirp.... And yet they install Chirp MFD's. But manufactures do NOT care. Kinda the same with Pumps... Sticking Sureflow aka "No Flow" pumps in a boat... They All do it.... Lucky if you get 2yrs out of it.

My builds are never cheap.... They are QUALITY.

Cables running over a transom are Ugly.....and Especially Ugly if it's a Bracketed boat.

Totally agree on 2 - 9in screens as apposed to 1- 12in.
Screen in front of helm has Nav....Other screen has Sonar.

You are saying not worth upgrading from B60 at all for my sub 100' use? Clear and SideVu are features I'd like. My option is fairing block with through hull or 56 transom mount.

I figured I'd leave B60 for redundancy and to keep bottom at speed if transom mount lost bottom at 30+ mph, which I don't spend a ton of time at with this boat. Unsure if that would interfere with second through hull based on limited real estate.

 

[pelagic2530]

You are saying not worth upgrading from B60 at all for my sub 100' use? Clear and SideVu are features I'd like. My option is fairing block with through hull or 56 transom mount.

I figured I'd leave B60 for redundancy and to keep bottom at speed if transom mount lost bottom at 30+ mph, which I don't spend a ton of time at with this boat. Unsure if that would interfere with second through hull based on limited real estate.

The only way you’re going to get Clear and SideVu is via the addition of a new transducer that supports those features. In your application, and especially since those features are only really useful at lower speeds, a transom mount transducer will work just fine, as long as it’s properly positioned and mounted. Ensure that it is not positioned directly behind the existing transducer, a raw water pickup, or any other hull projections.

As far as the B60, I’d leave it as is, and if your system allows perhaps leave it hooked up to the old unit as a depth reference. That leaves you the ability to have the new transducer hooked up to the new unit to take advantage of the better sonar options, with the B60 set up to provide depth reference at speed if you lose bottom on the transom mount.

 

[Dleopoldi914]

The only way you’re going to get Clear and SideVu is via the addition of a new transducer that supports those features. In your application, and especially since those features are only really useful at lower speeds, a transom mount transducer will work just fine, as long as it’s properly positioned and mounted. Ensure that it is not positioned directly behind the existing transducer, a raw water pickup, or any other hull projections.

As far as the B60, I’d leave it as is, and if your system allows perhaps leave it hooked up to the old unit as a depth reference. That leaves you the ability to have the new transducer hooked up to the new unit to take advantage of the better sonar options, with the B60 set up to provide depth reference at speed if you lose bottom on the transom mount.

This is what I did.

 

[Double Hall]

The only way you’re going to get Clear and SideVu is via the addition of a new transducer that supports those features. In your application, and especially since those features are only really useful at lower speeds, a transom mount transducer will work just fine, as long as it’s properly positioned and mounted. Ensure that it is not positioned directly behind the existing transducer, a raw water pickup, or any other hull projections.

As far as the B60, I’d leave it as is, and if your system allows perhaps leave it hooked up to the old unit as a depth reference. That leaves you the ability to have the new transducer hooked up to the new unit to take advantage of the better sonar options, with the B60 set up to provide depth reference at speed if you lose bottom on the transom mount.

Wondering if I can use B60 for depth displayed over chart only, then all bottom and side views use the GT56 on both units. Thanks for feedback, looks like this is PROBABLY the path forward. Now to scale back screen expectations and see if 1243 or even 1043 are enough.

 

[Double Hall]

This is what I did.

I won't install until early spring, most likely. If you DO have a chance to snap a pic of your transom mount location, it would be much appreciated. Based on at least one other thread I can no longer find, I think someone mounted as far starboard as possible next to drain plug on the stepped in transom/keel. I need to get under there to see if it looks clean and unblocked by the through hull.

 

[Dleopoldi914]

Its mounted on the starboard side.......Its tough for me to find pics of the transom with the boat out of the water.

I would suggest using a transom saver.

I also updated my boat to have Macris underwater lights. The stuff they put on the parker boats stock is junk.....

If you look close in this picture you can kind of see where the transducer was mounted.


https://photos.app.goo.gl/vNmzbRRu7WCz8ddK8

 

[Double Hall]

Its mounted on the starboard side.......Its tough for me to find pics of the transom with the boat out of the water.

I would suggest using a transom saver.

I also updated my boat to have Macris underwater lights. The stuff they put on the parker boats stock is junk.....

If you look close in this picture you can kind of see where the transducer was mounted.


https://photos.app.goo.gl/vNmzbRRu7WCz8ddK8

Mine actually came with under water lights (I never use them) but noticed one is half dead with water in it, and the other I think fully dead.

My bottom is painted so I'll need to strip paint for the stern saver, but wise move.