Fogging Yamaha 200 HPDI?

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Freelance III

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Oct 9, 2007
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Location
Hudson River, NJ & LI, NY
Can anyone shed any light on the procedure for fogging a HPDI?

One year I had it done by a traveling mech. I watched him spray Marvel Mistery Oil into the intake manifold untill the motor smoked out my house.
Then after he shut down the motor he removed the plugs and sprayed the same oil into the cylinders.

The next spring I could not start the motor. Off to the repair shop I went.

They said all that oil messed up some sensor in the motor.

Anyone know what really needs to be done to prep my motor for the winter layup?

Thanks

Matt
 
Figures I would get a wise-ass response from a Grady White owner.

I have seen so many of them take water over the stern and sink that I sometimes get them confussed with Bayliners or as i like to call them

"BOTTOM LINERS"
 
Freelance III said:
Figures I would get a wise-ass response from a Grady White owner.quote]

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: (he gotcha there, GW)
 
That was not at all my intention Freelance. I was merely trying to point out what I feel is the very first place you should look for such info.
 
Freelance III":3iuqfnwe said:
I have seen so many of them take water over the stern and sink that I sometimes get them confussed with Bayliners or as i like to call them

"BOTTOM LINERS"

Operator error is all that is. I never felt less secure in my open transom 204 than I do in my full transom 252G.
 
This thread went off track faster than a Amtrak train.
 
FreeLance, This is the basic winterizing for a 2003 F115 four stroke that I use. I've got 600 hours on the engine which runs great and haven't had any problems. Anyone feel free to add.

1) Add some ethanol friendly gas stabilizer to the fuel tank. I use Stabil, the mixture amount will say on the bottle. I fill the tank to the top after mixing the additive to prevent condensation. Run the engine long enough to make sure the additive makes into the fuel system.

2) Change the engine oil, oil filter and lower case gear oil.

3) Run the engine again for a brief period.

4) Pull the spark plugs out one at a time and spray some fogging oil into the piston. I can't remember but I think the Yamaha fogging oil is a couple of ounces into each cylinder. Then manually rotate the flywheel a couple of times by hand to distribute the oil. Note: Some people fog the intake until the engine stalls. I don't fog the intake for my own reasons (sensors etc.)

5) Take out the batter and charge, if necessary add some distilled water. Charge the battery again in a couple of months.

Without saying, make sure you flush the engine with fresh water. You also need to grease the steering ram and all fittings. Back off the steering arm nut and grease until the grease comes out. Tighten the stearing arm nut and rotate the stearing wheel to distribute the new grease.

I also use this time to inspect the zincs, thermostat, timing belt, etc. Replace any items as necessary.

I give the engine a nice coat of WD40 and shrink wrap the boat. In the spring you can make any repairs needed that you found in the fall.
 
Thanks for all the advise

I do all the above already.
My reason for the original question was to see if anyone else had any
similar problems with too much fogging oil confussing this so called sensor in the motor.

I guess I should not spray that much oil into the intake.

I come from the old school where too much is never enough when it comes to protecting metal in saltwater with oil and WD-40.

AS FOR GW204,
I actually like Grady White
Not as much as I love my PARKER but I always thought they had nice
lines.

I am looking for an old Sportsman 20' with an I/O for a knockaround
boat.

I want to plug the hole and hang a bracket on the stern.

The GW Atlantic looks like a nice FB model but they never really took off.
I think if they made it with a helm inside It might be a great pilothouse.

Most PARKER SC owners ,myself included, aspire to a second station on the roof.
 
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