Fuel Filter Mount

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M2cw refinish to better than new with cleanup, primer and gloss paint. That is what I did but agree with Warthog that a SS head is better
With SS fasteners just be aware of "galling". It tends to happen when fastening too fast or tightening/torquing too hard.
Basically, metal high points of the threads are rubbing against each other, the friction can generate enough heat to literally fuse and seize the nut and bolt together – that's the reason to slow down, lubricate, and don't over tighten. I have learnt it the hard way, lol, have had several SS bolts/nuts in my boats that fused that way – I think - and then they have to be cut if need removing.

And if SS fasteners are overtightened – same thing – when the threads begin to yield it induces friction between the mating surfaces and galling/bonding can happen. Its similar with other alloys, too, but seems to have that effect with SS the most.

But.

Whatever you do - don’t use 3M 5200! - your Parker boat will become immediately worthless! lololol.
J/k of course.
 
What 2801 Parker said is a good idea.

either process is occurring in the scenerio being discussed in this thread

But the bottom line is they look like Crap! Get the stainless unit from the get-go if you don't have one.....Or if tired of looking at that Crappy Black powdercoated unit.....Upgrade to the Stainless unit.
 
Regardless if you call it electrolysis or galvanic corrosion (the process that eats away less noble metals in the presence of saltwater), neither process is occurring in the scenerio being discussed in this thread ....... ie, when a SS fastener is attaching an aluminum fuel filter housing to the bulkhead or stringer of a boat since neither metal is subjected to a stray electrical current not subjected to an electrolyte.

https://www.boataccessoriesaustrali...ence-between-electrolysis-and-galvanic-corro/
Sorry, but you are incorrect and that link is subpar info on the subject.
The subject of metal "corrosion" in general is popular and well discussed and debated (ad nauseum) topic both on the internet and this forum, some info is good while some is not so good, so no need to repeat on this thread here. Search "galvanic corrosion" on here as a example... :)
 
When you change the filter you will need to crimp the hoses or as I did, install a butterfly valve to shut the fuel flow off.
Yes, I'm planning on installing a valve and would never intentionally crimp a fuel line for any reason. I have replaced the filter a few times and fuel does not siphon from the tank, but I will install the valve anyway since its a good idea and I think required now for new installs.
Why a butterfly valve as opposed to a ball valve? Will that restrict the fuel flow to any degree or does it not matter?
 
Regardless if you call it electrolysis or galvanic corrosion (the process that eats away less noble metals in the presence of saltwater), neither process is occurring in the scenerio being discussed in this thread ....... ie, when a SS fastener is attaching an aluminum fuel filter housing to the bulkhead or stringer of a boat since neither metal is subjected to a stray electrical current not subjected to an electrolyte.

https://www.boataccessoriesaustrali...ence-between-electrolysis-and-galvanic-corro/
Just to clarify, as per your article. Two different metals, especially in a salt water environment ( salt water is an electrolyte) will corrode the less noble metal.
":Galvanic corrosion is when two different metals are in contact in the presence of an electrolyte. One metal will be more chemically active than the other, and a reaction occurs. Very pure water will not conduct electricity, so the electrolyte isn’t present. Saltwater however conducts an electrical current and allows for corrosion to occur."
 
Just to clarify, as per your article. Two different metals, especially in a salt water environment ( salt water is an electrolyte) will corrode the less noble metal.
":Galvanic corrosion is when two different metals are in contact in the presence of an electrolyte. One metal will be more chemically active than the other, and a reaction occurs. Very pure water will not conduct electricity, so the electrolyte isn’t present. Saltwater however conducts an electrical current and allows for corrosion to occur."

You are 100% correct FlyingKnot.

So to continue your point, I would question where you might be seeing an electrolyte in a fuel filter housing attached to a wood/fiberglass stringer held in place by 2 stainless steel lag screws. You certainly aren't suggesting that gasoline is an electrolyte in this situation?
 
Looks great!

I have a habit of spraying and coating everything accessible metal component in my boats and trailers with crc6-56, or corrosion-x, or both. I noticed over the years that not many people do that, makes me wonder.
I do the same, except I use MDR metal wax/protector. I have a 'many-year' supply. It's no longer available to buy, but I've had no metal corrosion in over 35 years using this stuff... It's so good, it has been discontinued.
 
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You are 100% correct FlyingKnot.

So to continue your point, I would question where you might be seeing an electrolyte in a fuel filter housing attached to a wood/fiberglass stringer held in place by 2 stainless steel lag screws. You certainly aren't suggesting that gasoline is an electrolyte in this situation?
The boat is in a salt water environment. I am sure the internal parts are just fine. It is the exterior that is exposed to the salt air and that is enough to cause the issue.
 
The boat is in a salt water environment. I am sure the internal parts are just fine. It is the exterior that is exposed to the salt air and that is enough to cause the issue.
That's correct. The salty high humid air is the electrolyte. Plus being in the closed compartment of the bilge below deck.
 
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