Fuel Filter Question

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Andy

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Hi All, I could use some help/opinions from our Parker experts... The last two days I've been working on my 100 hour (actually 75 hour) maintenance. Like most of us, I have both the blue Yamaha fuel-filter/water separator (I call it the 'primary', as it gets the fuel/gas first from the tank; an industry standard; Yamaha calls it the 'secondary'; I don't know why?)... The secondary fuel/gas filter that is mounted on the front of the engine (Yamaha calls it the 'primary'; again I don't know why, since it receives the fuel AFTER the first filter).
I have replaced that/the 'secondary' every 75-100 hours.... It is so clean, I cannot tell the difference from it, and the brand new filter..... IS THIS NORMAL?... Keep in mind, my previous 35+ years history is with Diesel engines, and Racor Diesel fuel filter/water separators, and when you changed a filter (even 'anal-lee' as I did), the fuel filter was always DIRTY....
Our Yamaha 'secondary filter' (again, what Yamaha, incorrectly, referrers to as the 'primary') is as clean as a new one, every time I have changed it....
My questions;
Is the blue Yamaha filter THAT good, where NO gunk gets to the the 'secondary'...
Is the place I'm buying fuel/gas that exceptional?
Are you all also experiencing the same thing?
Is your on-the-engine fuel filter as clean as a new one??... As in, am I changing it too often, wasting time, effort and $$?
(call it 'secondary' if you'd like, which is correct, or call it 'primary', which you and Yamaha will both be 'incorrect' ) ☺
 
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What year is your hull?
I replace my primary fuel water separator every 6 months. My inline fuel filter beneath the cowling is examined, but if found clean I leave it in place.
 
I usually replace (as you call it) the primary fuel filter (blue) at the end of every season. The secondary (on the engine) every other year.
 
What year is your hull?
I replace my primary fuel water separator every 6 months. My inline fuel filter beneath the cowling is examined, but if found clean I leave it in place.
The hull was built/laid at the end of 2013 (hence, it is considered a 2013); the boat was sold/first- commissioned in October 2014. (It has a 200 gallon fuel tank, which I guess, is rare?)....
I replace both fuel filters every 75-100 hours. (2-3 times each year). Therefore, I have a stockpile of what looks like new, "used" beneath the cowling, fuel filters. (I have saved them, wondering if they are 're-useable? Or, once they are wetted with gasoline, and now dried, does that process render the filter stiff/'clogged'/un-usable?, or are they ok to use?
Even when I could see the filter and filter housing was clean, I was/am still dumb enough to have replaced them. While replacing it, the only way to tell the old one from the new one is that the old one is wet, with gasoline!... I will follow your advice...
 
Normal to write the change date on the filter where it can be seen.....IE: after it is screwed On........Then change it once a year, no matter the hours.....This is due to rust of the filter itself.
 
Good questions.
No you are not wasting your time or money. Routine and consistent maintenance is always a good idea. Just because you can not physically see that the filter is dirty, it doesn't mean that it isn't. Also, since the filter element is paper, it will eventually breakdown. The old filters are useless and should not be used again.
 
Good questions.
No you are not wasting your time or money. Routine and consistent maintenance is always a good idea. Just because you can not physically see that the filter is dirty, it doesn't mean that it isn't. Also, since the filter element is paper, it will eventually breakdown. The old filters are useless and should not be used again.
Thank you... good advice on the old filters! To the trash, they will go!
 
Normal to write the change date on the filter where it can be seen.....IE: after it is screwed On........Then change it once a year, no matter the hours.....This is due to rust of the filter itself.
Yes, I write the change date, AND engine hours on the filters... I also keep a Word-document maintenance schedule. Always have; always will! (I cannot/will not rely on my 'memory', or lack there-of!)
(I'm just not used to seeing clean fuel filters after having Diesel engines for the previous 32 years; they 'dirty-up' quicker)
 
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Agree with the above. I just finished my maintenance this past Saturday. Every 100 hours, or annually, which ever occurs first I change out the following:
*Spark plugs
*Engine Oil
*Oil filter
*Lower unit fluid
*Fuel Filter
*Water/Fuel Separator Filter
*Grease all fittings
Once complete, I fog the block area with Yamashield (make sure you don't get it on your belts)
Annually I change out the thermostats & water pump, pull the prop & inspect prop shaft and re-grease.
 
if you want to know what your filter looks like cut it open and look at it .
 
if you want to know what your filter looks like cut it open and look at it .
The filter we're talking about is the one under the cowling on the engine; there is no cover, to cut open.
I think you're referring to the 'primary', typically large, blue filter, that resembles a large oil filter... I've done so, on many oil filters; a pretty safe things to do. If you cut open a gasoline filter, be careful how, when, and what with you cut it with.
 
Hi All, I could use some help/opinions from our Parker experts... The last two days I've been working on my 100 hour (actually 75 hour) maintenance. Like most of us, I have both the blue Yamaha fuel-filter/water separator (I call it the 'primary', as it gets the fuel/gas first from the tank; an industry standard; Yamaha calls it the 'secondary'; I don't know why?)... The secondary fuel/gas filter that is mounted on the front of the engine (Yamaha calls it the 'primary'; again I don't know why, since it receives the fuel AFTER the first filter).
I have replaced that/the 'secondary' every 75-100 hours.... It is so clean, I cannot tell the difference from it, and the brand new filter..... IS THIS NORMAL?... Keep in mind, my previous 35+ years history is with Diesel engines, and Racor Diesel fuel filter/water separators, and when you changed a filter (even 'anal-lee' as I did), the fuel filter was always DIRTY....
Our Yamaha 'secondary filter' (again, what Yamaha, incorrectly, referrers to as the 'primary') is as clean as a new one, every time I have changed it....
My questions;
Is the blue Yamaha filter THAT good, where NO gunk gets to the the 'secondary'...
Is the place I'm buying fuel/gas that exceptional?
Are you all also experiencing the same thing?
Is your on-the-engine fuel filter as clean as a new one??... As in, am I changing it too often, wasting time, effort and $$?
(call it 'secondary' if you'd like, which is correct, or call it 'primary', which you and Yamaha will both be 'incorrect' ) ☺
I change both filters every year....and as you stated....the "on engine" filter looks good.....to me....its a small price to pay for peace of mind
 
I change both filters every year....and as you stated....the "on engine" filter looks good.....to me....its a small price to pay for peace of mind
It ends up that I change all three (oil, and both fuel filters) 2 or 3 times each year, as I do it every time I do the 100 hour maintenance. (I have sometimes gone only 70-75 hours instead of 100), and for a year or so I was changing the lower-unit oil every 50 hours)... I had some 'milky' water and was keeping a close eye on it. Came to find out, in the Yamaha manual, it says 10% water in the lower unit is OK.... Not that I agree with that! ☺ And, the Yamaha Manual does NOT tell you how to determine what 10% looks like!
 
Yes, I write the change date, AND engine hours on the filters... I also keep a Word-document maintenance schedule. Always have; always will! (I cannot/will not rely on my 'memory', or lack there-of!)
(I'm just not used to seeing clean fuel filters after having Diesel engines for the previous 32 years; they 'dirty-up' quicker)
Diesel fuel is a dirty fuel to begin with when compared with gasoline
 
Diesel fuel is a dirty fuel to begin with when compared with gasoline
Yes, I surely agree with that! With our previous gasoline boats (1960's, 1970's through 1982) we had only a single, small, on-engine fuel filter; even only one, on the Merc 470 I/O... All those years, I don't recall any fuel issues.
With Diesel fuel, although with many advantages, keeping the filters and the 300 gallon tanks clean was a chore; There were three fuel filters on our last Diesel boat, and I changed the primary Racor 500 every 50 hours or so; about six times a year (but, it was a simple 3-4 minute job).....
 
Yes, I surely agree with that! With our previous gasoline boats (1960's, 1970's through 1982) we had only a single, small, on-engine fuel filter; even only one, on the Merc 470 I/O... All those years, I don't recall any fuel issues.
With Diesel fuel, although with many advantages, keeping the filters and the 300 gallon tanks clean was a chore; There were three fuel filters on our last Diesel boat, and I changed the primary Racor 500 every 50 hours or so; about six times a year (but, it was a simple 3-4 minute job).....
I drain the clear bowl on my Racor every other trip and usually remove a half of teaspoon of water with particulate mater from the marine fuel.
 
I’m guessing not all boats install a racor type boat mounted filter hince it’s the primary? I change the racor every 50 hours as recommended and the engine mounted one, I don’t think is really necessary Except it has the water sensor in it.
 
I drain the clear bowl on my Racor every other trip and usually remove a half of teaspoon of water with particulate mater from the marine fuel.
Are you referring to Diesel? If so, what you mentioned could be 'climate-related', being in south Florida? For sure, at least your Racor is 'doing its job'!
Our Diesel Racor 500 had a 'pet-****' on the bottom of the clear-bowl; it was rare I got water, and I 'sampled' from the pet-**** about once a month. I also installed a pressure gauge on the top of the lid (it replaced the 'T' handle; lid-lock). The pressure gauge would indicate when to change the internal filter....
I always kept the Diesel fuel treated with Bios-Bor and Marvel Mystery Oil (At the recommendation of the two, world-renown Diesel engine experts; Bob Smith/Ford-Lehman, and Nigel Calder)... When the EPA banned the additive, sulfur from Diesel fuel (Sulfur was there as a very-important 'lubricant'), the Marvel Mystery Oil is what was recommended as a 'lubricant'/ replacement for the sulfur.
 
It ends up that I change all three (oil, and both fuel filters) 2 or 3 times each year, as I do it every time I do the 100 hour maintenance. (I have sometimes gone only 70-75 hours instead of 100), and for a year or so I was changing the lower-unit oil every 50 hours)... I had some 'milky' water and was keeping a close eye on it. Came to find out, in the Yamaha manual, it says 10% water in the lower unit is OK.... Not that I agree with that! ☺ And, the Yamaha Manual does NOT tell you how to determine what 10% looks like!
Milky lu oil most likely is not normal. I would address it by 10 psi pressure testing it off the motor at the end of the season. It can leak in 3 places: prop, drive or gear shaft. Bent prop shaft or fishing line are most common reasons for premature seal failure.
 
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