Fuel Tank Question

[jhendric]

Guys, I am considering repowering my 1996 2501. As I get closer to pulling the trigger I am starting to think about all the stuff that might be good to replace at the same time. I was speaking with a guy today who is a very reputable Marine Surveyor and he was telling me that the life expectancy of a Fuel tank like the one in my Parker is 10-15 years....which means I'm living on borrowed time.

What has your experience been with Parker fuel tanks? If it were you would you replace the tank?

It shows no signs of problem now.

 

[WhalinDave]

Had to replace mine when it was eight years old...

 

[TWOBOATER]

Don't want to jinx myself but my 1993 2520 still has the original tanks. I would add though that I have contemplated replacing them BEFORE they fail, a much better scenario than a bilge full of gasoline. You won't know what's really going on until you decide to pull up the decks, and by then it crazy not to replace them. Parkers construction methods have proven to have tanks last quite a long time compared to other boats I've owned.

 

[Megabyte]

Tough call...

I also own a 1996 2520 MVSC and have thought about this myself.
As a preventive measure, I try to keep the under-deck space as dry and ventilated as possible, going so far this season to add solar powered fans to improve airflow.

I have a unique situation though. My boat came from the factory with 3 fuel tanks.
Main tank is 126 gallons, and the Port and Starboard tanks are 49 gallons each.

When I first bought the boat, I filled all 3 tanks on land before I sold the trailer.
Seemed like a good idea at the time, but adding over 1300 pounds (not including the weight of the tanks and related hardware) caused it to be a bit sluggish getting up on plane. :shock:
The lesson learned was to only use the main tank, and leave the wing-tanks unused.

When finances allow, I would like to cut the deck and remove those wing tanks and related piping and wiring, then pull the main tank for a thorough inspection.
If everything looks good, I would coat the tank with coal-tar epoxy and re-install it with all new wiring and fuel hoses.
When replacing the deck, I would repair the holes for the wing-tank inspection hatches as well as the fuel fill holes in the washboards, then give the deck a fresh application of non-skid.

Not certain how much dead weight I'm carrying around now with those wing-tanks under deck, but I'd bet it is substantial enough that I would see a performance gain, which would make the whole project worthwhile (and expensive).

My situation is a bit different than yours, but if you do decide to cut the deck and pull the tank for inspection, I would suggest coating the (old or new) tank with coal-tar epoxy, and replace the bonding wiring, the fuel gage sensor, and all fuel lines while the deck is up and everything can be gotten to.
It would also be a good time to check for moisture, clear any drains, and remove any FOD that might still be down there from the time the boat was built.

A worthwhile project that I want to do myself someday. :wink:

 

[jhendric]

Yeah, this is really a tough one....I'm leaning towards doing it. Robin Recomended a guy who used to work at Parker...the boat is in Beaufort NC so it would be relatively easy for me to get it done. I'd like to consider doing it myself, but between work and kids no wy would I have it back together before spring....

Might be a good opportunity to get the T-Top cleaned up and/or painted too....

 

[DaleH]

I was speaking with a guy today who is a very reputable Marine Surveyor and he was telling me that the life expectancy of a Fuel tank like the one in my Parker is 10-15 years....which means I'm living on borrowed time.

Sorry ... but the phrases reputable Marine Surveyor and the life expectancy of a Parker fuel tank of ~15-years don't belong in the SAME sentence!

NEVER use that guy :shock: ... as that is a completely baseless and mis-leading statement. Sure some people, who own a boat of ANY brand, may have replaced a tank, but that is the far exception and I'd bet $$ it was from improper care and storage ... wet bilge, allowed to stay wet, with a boat shrink-wrapped with zero air flow through it.

Taken care of and tanks will last a looooooooooooooong time .... I started venting my bilge the day I got it and the 126-gal tank in my '92 looks brand new!

 

[jhendric]

Hey Dale, in his defense he was speaking of Aluminum tanks in general. I cover my boat with all hatches open when I store it...have since I bought it 6 years ago....not sure how it was stored prior to me owning it....I think I'll just keep it and not fix what isn't broken....

 

[DaleH]

I know of 2 tanks almost 30, many over 20, dozens 10 or older and yet I don't know of 1 ever owned by a family member, friend, or fishing buddy that ever had to be replaced ...

 

[TWOBOATER]

Since we're on the subject, I'm considering having my new fuel tanks rhino-lined before install. I've seen some steel gas dock fuel hose reels done with this stuff and it has tripled their longevity! It's pretty tough stuff, thought it might be great on alum. tanks. Any thoughts?

 

[DaleH]

Since we're on the subject, I'm considering having my new fuel tanks rhino-lined before install. I've seen some steel gas dock fuel hose reels done with this stuff and it has tripled their longevity! It's pretty tough stuff, thought it might be great on alum. tanks. Any thoughts?

Is it rubber? Rubber contains carbon, which is cathodic to aluminum, and WILL cause galvanic corrosion, i.e., corrosion due to the electric potential of different materials.

Many coat aluminum fuel tanks with coal tar. I hope Bobby (Warthog5) sees this post, as I believe he's coated many a tank. Check the post on his refurb of his 2530 model, use the search.

The biggest point for a long life, after a good installation, is to keep it clean, dry, and ensure adequate ventilation throughout the bilge.

 

[Brent]

If you need to replace the tank, what would be specs?

aluminum guage?

one or 2 tank vents?

fuel sender? conventional float mechanism or electronic?

Fuel pickup? one or two?

Anti siphon valve? with or with out screens

fuel pickup tube nylon or other? with or with out screens

Coating? coal tar expoxy? or other coating

other items?

 

[jhendric]

I believe Parker will sell you a tank that matches your boat...from there I believe Coal Tar epoxy before reinstallation is the preferred method.

 

[DaleH]

Also for the installation, make sure that nothing contacts the tank that will cause corrosive effects (rubber) or hold & trap moisture.

IIRC, David Pascoe the noted marine surveyor, recommends LDPE or HDPE strips on the bottom if the tank w/ a clean bead of 5200, then those strips are lightly bedded to the hull. Remeber that the tanks needs to contract & expand w/ temperatures. He has a website ... I don't necessarily agree w/ everything he says, but he does back up his opinions (where/when the science may be lacking).

 

[warthog5]

aluminum guage? = 3/16in

one or 2 tank vents? dual vents but "Y" into one outlet where the stock vent exited the boat

fuel sender? conventional float mechanism or electronic? The Electronic by Wema

Fuel pickup? one or two? depends on if the boat has the capability of ever being powered by twins

Anti siphon valve? with or with out screens It's not a screen....it is a check ball and a LOT of problems have been caused by having them. I remove the ball or never install one.

fuel pickup tube nylon or other? with or with out screens Never a screen. I have the pickup fitted and welded in. A pix would be best to explain this, but I'm fresh out of pix's on this subject. But I do have a custom way to do it.

Coating? coal tar epoxy? or other coating Tank is cleaned, sanded, cleaned again and then 2 coats of Coal Tar Epoxy rolled on.


Dale was talking about the question asked of using Rubber under the tank. I totally agree with what Dale said.

What I do is use some scrap Divenacell. Yea not just anyone has this stuff, but let me explain and you'll come up with a substitute.

I still stand to the reasoning of Foaming a tank in using 4lb density foam.

Now....... The alum has been protected / sealed with Coal Tar Epoxy. So if water ever got up against the tank, then it still can't hurt it if it got thru the foam. Note that 4lb density is Closed cell foam, but after years it can work it's way there.

I want the tank raised.....just slightly...This allows the 4lb to run under the tank and it becomes a glue to the tank. The little blocks of Divenacell become nothing worth mentioning.
Remember the alum has been sealed. So some small scraps 2in X 2in of 1/2in Plywood would work.

Hope that helps explain some thing.

The pickup. It's bent out of 3/8in alum tubing. It has a 90deg bend at the bottom aprox 2 to 3in long hor. with the bottom of the tank. The end of the tube is mashed closed in a vise. Then the tube is drilled thru along that Horz plane in 3 places with a 3/16in drill bit parallel to the bottom of the tank, but in the center of the tube. Then the tube is drilled from the topside of the tube only between the 3 other thru holes. The tube is tack welded to the bottom of the tank.

Some may not like this methionine and talk about picking up water. Good Racor filter and good maintenance will fix that. I've never had a problem.

With all those holes drilled. Do your drilling and then run a drill bit inside the tube....BEFORE you mash the end flat. What this does is debur the holes you drilled. With all those holes. If a piece of crap gets sucked up to one of them.....The fuel pump will pull from the others. Plus you can now use that "Other" 10gals of gas that you couldn't with the plastic tube.

 

[DaleH]

See? I told y'all that Bobby would have the answers

 

[Phil]

I cut 1" off one of my pickup tubes so I have a hi and lo pickup-- both plumbed with shutoff to the Racor. The hi pu is the main and much less likely to suck up crud from ethanol. The lo pu serves only as an "emergency" which should rarely happen if the 1/3 rule is followed. If used at least I would be fully aware that the Racor will pick up crap.

 

[DaleH]

I cut 1" off one of my pickup tubes so I have a hi and lo pickup-- both plumbed with shutoff to the Racor. The hi pu is the main and much less likely to suck up crud from ethanol. The lo pu serves only as an "emergency" which should rarely happen if the 1/3 rule is followed. If used at least I would be fully aware that the Racor will pick up crap.

How do you make the switch????????

 

[Phil]

Racors have 2 inputs and 2 outputs. Just put shutoff valves on the 2 inputs, turn the hi on and the low off and vice versa. Simple as it get.