You were right big guy. The Parker dealer on Cape will do it for $850 all in.
Thxs for feedback
Getting bow down on 2300
- Thread starter Cman60
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Thxs for feedback
Just let them know how you want it done, Where you want the Switch and batteries located, orientation, proper marine cable (and lugs) routing and to use proper cable supports. Not zipties. Lots of "marine techs" take the fastest/shortest route.A job done well with the proper materials goes a long way.
Question when you say cable support where is that needed. We are running new lines from bilge through a chase tube into console. Are you saying the cables should be supported before entering the chase tube or coming out of the chase tube before they connect to the batteries or both?
A job done well with the proper materials goes a long way.
thxs
Outside of the chase at both ends to minimize vibration, anywhere where there is more than 8"+ of unsupported cable....but thats just me.
Trimming the motor up, about 3 or 4 clicks, helps quite a lot as well. My 2320 has a 4 blade prop, stock trim tabs, batteries relocated to the pilot house, permatrim and with the motor trimmed just right, makes a big difference in getting up on step quicker.
2003 2300CC with Yamaha F300.
Moved batteries to console and increased size to group 31's
Installed Rev 4 prop
Installed 18" tabs on Lenco actuators (not relocated)
All three of these mods made a difference. Together with the repower from the F225 to the F300, it is a completely different and great boat.
Moved batteries to console and increased size to group 31's
Installed Rev 4 prop
Installed 18" tabs on Lenco actuators (not relocated)
All three of these mods made a difference. Together with the repower from the F225 to the F300, it is a completely different and great boat.
If you don't mind me asking, did you install the wider tabs in the same location As the orginal? I'm assuming you went with lenco, which are 18" wide. I have 12x12's and want to upgrade for obvious reasons, but the 12's are perfectly centered between the strakes. This may be a dumb question to some but will the wider tabs affect the function of the strakes and chines? Bennett makes a 12x 18, but the opposite measurements of the lenco. I went through all the motions to get the bow down. Something still isn't right dammit!! Lol
The outside edge will be the same but the inside edge will be towards the keel. Don’t worry about the strake but you will need to move the actuators to recenter them. These are old pics and not great but one shows 18” to the original outside edge. As you can see it goes over the strake.
All good.
All good.
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Got it thanks. Unsure since both tabs and strakes act in lifting the boat. Thats how the question came up, unsure if a overlap would cancel it out somehow. I guess not. Haha The outside will be the same, inside moves in, re center actuators. How about the hight from the edge? The way it is now, the bottom edge of the tab is 3/8" above the bottom edge of the hull. Will they install at the same elevation? I've seen tabs mounted it all kinds of different places. I saw a striper once that had them almost in line with the enging bracket. That couldn't be right. I've also seen them flush with the bottom of the hull and on other boats up an inch or more! I've tried to ask the localcboat yards about the whole trim system, and they never want to tell you. Taking away their work I guess. It's like a closed society with some boat yards! Lol thanks for the help!
3/8 sounds about right. It’s definitely a little above the hull bottom and also their is supposed to be a tad of negative tab when they are fully retracted. Go to the Lenco site for the tabs and they should still have a link to the installation instructions. This is well covered there. Good luck!
I have a 2004 2300dv with a F300 on a bracket and was having the same issues with keeping the nose down in choppy seas. I recently replaced the 12x12 tabs with 12x18 tabs and left the actuators in the same spot. Made a world of difference. Response is immediate and not as much bounce in chop.
My next project is going to be moving the house batteries from the transom to the console. Then move the trolling motor battery(ies) from the console to one of the forward storage compartments. I think that will do all that is needed to get the weight distributed correctly on the boat. Will update when that happens (probably this winter).
My next project is going to be moving the house batteries from the transom to the console. Then move the trolling motor battery(ies) from the console to one of the forward storage compartments. I think that will do all that is needed to get the weight distributed correctly on the boat. Will update when that happens (probably this winter).
Michael T Ott
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Michael T Ott
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Try using some 50lb ballast bags in the bow. Worked like a charm for me. Very inexpensive and really leveled out the boat. I use the ballast bags that water skiers typically use to generate wake on their boats. Good luck.
I'm wondering if anyone has tried using interceptors rather than trim tabs on their boats? I don't know that much about interceptors but they seem like they might be an interesting alternative to trim tabs. Some brands are Humphree, Zipwake, and HydroTab.
I have a 1988 Parker SE with a 175 Suzuki four stroke with no trim tabs, but batteries are in console. Not a fast boat but then Parker SE's aren't much fun in a chop so I figured what's the use of overpowering it. I like 14 to 20 knots most of the time. At these lower speeds I think I would need a pretty large trim tab?
I have a 1988 Parker SE with a 175 Suzuki four stroke with no trim tabs, but batteries are in console. Not a fast boat but then Parker SE's aren't much fun in a chop so I figured what's the use of overpowering it. I like 14 to 20 knots most of the time. At these lower speeds I think I would need a pretty large trim tab?
chas650r
Well-known member
so are the actuators off center on the tab? or are they the 18"long ( out from the stern ) ? I have thought about trying a wider tab w/o relocating the actuators ( off center ) but have not got there. Seems as long as the tab itself is rigid enough some off center might not be a issue.
I guess the tab and actuator are still centered on one another, but they end up not being in the ideal distance from the keel. It is not worth it to me to relocate the whole actuator/tab to get them in the perfect/ideal location
chas650r
Well-known member
got it , and agreed probably not going to change much except side to side leveling . thanks!
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Would you mind posting a little more info? Like tab model, cost and a few pics? Thank you!
Ok so the report is in. Moved batteries to console, had the 18 in tabs installed and already had done 4 blade prop. Number one moving batteries to console made a HUGE improvement. Rear of boat at rest is up 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch which really levels the boat. I had my motor height set perfect but had to drop a hole to keep prop hooked up in turns due to stern lift from battery move. This combined with the bigger tabs is a game changer. I can now get nose flat at 17 mph. If you own a 2300 highly recommend this battery move. Everybody that’s been on boat this year feels like it’s a different boat. I wasn’t sure I was gonna love this boat but now I’m convinced.
Thanks Parker community for encouraging the battery move and the larger tabs. Now I can fish offshore and comfortably come back in 3 footers if need be.
Thanks Parker community for encouraging the battery move and the larger tabs. Now I can fish offshore and comfortably come back in 3 footers if need be.
