Since you say it is an old skiff, then it may in fact serve you well in your specific application.
It appears that others are considering it for their pride and joy so I put this out there for their benefit and consideration.
On my deck replacement project I almost went the bedliner route but eventually re-thought it and went an entirely different direction.
Upon calling Grizzly Grip, I was told:
1) There sell two different types of epoxy, aliphetic or aromatic. Aliphetic is much more uv resistant but dries harder, (less spongy), is generally less durable and is less tenacious at bonding to the substrate. It will still yellow-just yellow less than the aromatic. It will generally chip rather than peel or gouge. They recommend the aliphetic for all light colors because of the yellowing factor.
2) The aromatic is much closer to a true epoxy and thus more durable albeit still not a two part mixture. Closed ring or crossed linked-something like that? Maybe someone with a chemistry background can chime in here? The aromatic is much more durable but doesn't do well in light colors.
3) All lighter colors will yellow over time.
4) The darker the color the more UV resistant, more durability and less potential for yellowing.
Your mileage may vary but in my experience whether coating a garage floor, painting something, gluing something together-TWO PART PRODUCTS always trump the single component products.
Most truck liners are very durable but almost all are also a darker color...
therein possibly lies the secret.
Note: I know from personal experience and testimony of others that any color darker than a light sand or cream will burn the soles off of your bare feet in the summer anywhere south of the artic circle.
In doing my research I read where some folks had problems with the bed liners yellowing and others had problems with durability, softness of the surface or wear resistance.
Something to consider:
Good luck scraping bed liner off your deck if you change your mind or the stuff doesn't perform as you hoped.
One guy had a problem with the stuff never hardening totally and staying very soft. It was a mess. Although the mfg admitted there was a problem with the batch he received and gave him a replacement batch, what was he supposed to do about the stuff already down? He had a heck of a time with the sander clogging trying to get it up and eventually gave up, subsequently painting TWO PART POLYURETHANE right over the bed liner.
I ended up going with Interlux Perfection, two part poly. The "polymeric" non-skid was sprinkled a la salt shaker onto the 2nd coat of the wet paint. Once dried the excess non-skid was swept up and a final coat was put on, totally sealing the non skid. One quart got me three coats on the short deck of a 2530.
The good thing about the non skid Interlux makes is that it is actually tiny (almost microscopic) plastic spheres that actually absorb the paint and take on its color. Have you've seen some old nonskid getting dark flecks all over? When some nonskid gelcoat wears the walnut shell or sand granules in the resin are exposed showing up as a darker color and giving it that ugly peppered look. This wont or should I say "shouldn't" happen with Interlux's product
Performance
I'm impressed so far but it's only been a year. It is certainly one tough surface. It was easy to apply with a roller, uniform in cover and no streaks or high spots. In my opinion it is much harder and much more scratch, gouge and general abuse resistant than gelcoat. It is also 10 times as easy to keep clean. No scrubbing, scouring and strong cleaners, a hose and some ivory soap gets off the toughest stains, blood and dirt. Normal cleaning is just a spray from the hose.
The poly nonskid is much better (slip resistant) than the original gelcoat non-skid and is really easy on bare feet!
I drag and throw scuba tanks, weights, spearguns, tackle boxes, rods and other gear all over it and haven't seen the first sign of damage.
2 part poly, certainly isn't cheap but a little goes a long way!
Oyster White matches a 93 Parker's gelcoat perfectly. You really cant tell it is paint. Not sure how close it is to newer or older parker gelcoats as I know they changed up several times over the years.
It gets a little pricey when you add Interlux's thinners, primers, reducers, non-skid, etc. All told (paint only) I came away at @ $170.00 dollars. As with all things that you expect a nice job on, the labor comes in preparation, not painting skills. This stuff is thin (like vodka thin) and unlike thicker paint it will not fill or bridge gaps. It highlights rather than hides any uneven surface.
I'm not saying Grizzly Grip, Durabak, or any of the dozen other brands aren't any good, or won't work in your application, they just weren't for me.
