Had a bad day and my rub rail screws broke need help!!

[Rozi2520]

Hey everyone, I have a 1990 2520 MV. I had a little miss hap out on the water last week. My anchor was stuck and I was tight on it. had only about a foot of swell at the time. Started letting out line to get a new angle and had a set of some 3’ to 4’ swell roll through! Need less to say my lonestar gx3 couldn’t dump line fast enough...... ended up breaking 3 screws where the deck meets the hull in the rub rail. Also found that the first 2 feet of bow either directions had loose screws. From the looks of things there was little to no cracking on the hull it just elongated some of the screw holes. My question is, is it ok to use bolts instead of screws on the ones that broke? And for the ones that were loose do I just go up a size screw and some 4200? Any help would be great... as the lobster opener is on Saturday. I know the loose screws are to be expected as the boat is 31 years old.

 

[Andy]

Hey everyone, I have a 1990 2520 MV. I had a little miss hap out on the water last week. My anchor was stuck and I was tight on it. had only about a foot of swell at the time. Started letting out line to get a new angle and had a set of some 3’ to 4’ swell roll through! Need less to say my lonestar gx3 couldn’t dump line fast enough...... ended up breaking 3 screws where the deck meets the hull in the rub rail. Also found that the first 2 feet of bow either directions had loose screws. From the looks of things there was little to no cracking on the hull it just elongated some of the screw holes. My question is, is it ok to use bolts instead of screws on the ones that broke? And for the ones that were loose do I just go up a size screw and some 4200? Any help would be great... as the lobster opener is on Saturday. I know the loose screws are to be expected as the boat is 31 years old.

Hi Rozi2520, Sorry to hear about your miss-hap... Pictures would help....
My two-cents is, a bolt is a much better option than a screw anytime there is access to both ends. I'll bolt everything and anything I can when there is access to do such; even small minor accessories. (And with 'aircraft' ny-loc nuts)...
On the ones 'that are just loose', your suggestion with up-sizing and sealing with 4200 would work, but if you can reach both ends, why not go back with high quality s/s bolts? I would if I could...

 

[warthog5]

They use screws because uou typically can not get to the backside of it to hold the nut.
Oh......and it's faster to assy when the boat was built.

The fix is.....Remove broken screws.....That will be the hard part. Use a countersink on the fiberglass at the screw holes......This will give more surface area to bond to....tape around the holes very precise......Inject epoxy/Cabisol mix into the holes and smooth even with the tape. Remove the tape when filler is in a green state...it will come off easier........Drill new holes and install new screws.

 

[Rozi2520]

They use screws because uou typically can not get to the backside of it to hold the nut.
Oh......and it's faster to assy when the boat was built.

The fix is.....Remove broken screws.....That will be the hard part. Use a countersink on the fiberglass at the screw holes......This will give more surface area to bond to....tape around the holes very precise......Inject epoxy/Cabisol mix into the holes and smooth even with the tape. Remove the tape when filler is in a green state...it will come off easier........Drill new holes and install new screws.

Hey warthog! I am able to get acces where every all the way around. I will be bolting it back. I know you said to use an epoxy but would q-cel and iso laminated resin do the trick as well. Planning on taking the complete rub rail off this winter and redoing the whole thing. After putting the lonestar gx 2 winch on the front it seems to be putting extra stress on the bow when pulling anchor. Had over 8 bent and snapped screws. And after peeling back the rest I am realizing most are loose. After all they have been on the for 30+ years. Or would you recommend pulling the whole top cap and reglass the the whole top cap where it mounts to the hull. For some reason they thought 10 1&1/2” screws per foot was better than 3 bolts.....

 

[warthog5]

After putting the lonestar gx 2 winch on the front it seems to be putting extra stress on the bow when pulling anchor.

Is the rode rubbing on the Rub rail?

Not familure with Qcell.....same as Cabisol?

Or would you recommend pulling the whole top cap and reglass the the whole top cap where it mounts to the hull.

LOL You have no idea what a can of worms that would be.....If you can even get it apart.

I've glassed one topcap to the hull...Then faired the hull.....It is Extremely labor intensive.

 

[Rozi2520]

Is the rode rubbing on the Rub rail?

Not familure with Qcell.....same as Cabisol?



LOL You have no idea what a can of worms that would be.....If you can even get it apart.

I've glassed one topcap to the hull...Then faired the hull.....It is Extremely labor intensive.

The reason I ask it is because I was able to pick the top cap with just my shoulder. Just the four foot section in unscrewed and re bolted.
But I really like your idea of glassing the top cap to the hull. Do you have any pictures on how this turned out? And the type of glass you used 1708 and 1.5oz chop?
This sounds like a way more reliable way of attaching and making it solid. Also eliminates the leaking that always happens.
I’m not scared of hard work, I just want it fixed right so it’s not a constant fight. It would also be nice to have a water tight vbirth again!

 

[warthog5]

I used 1708 & 1 1/2oz mat......Vacuum bagged.....The hull was upside down.

This is not for the faint of heart....and it's a LOT of work, fairing the hull.

 

[sailmaster]

Is the rode rubbing on the Rub rail?

Not familure with Qcell.....same as Cabisol?



LOL You have no idea what a can of worms that would be.....If you can even get it apart.

I've glassed one topcap to the hull...Then faired the hull.....It is Extremely labor intensive.

Q cells are glass microballons as a filler they increase volume and plasticity made under a number of names and work with all resins have little color but will cause a whiter appearance Phenolic microballons are brown and create a more flexible putty but are more expensive and an older tech

Cabosil is fumed colloidial silica and is basically something with an incredible amount of surface area. This can be used to create a thixotropic putty which will wet out better than something with another inert filler. Used in all kinds of things including toothpaste. In its dry state it is dangerous and can cause silicosis if abused. If used as a stand alone thickener it will increase the brittleness of the putty. I like to keep the putty un catalyzed for some time before use to allow it to wet out better. I have been known to put the putty in a vacuum box to remove air bubbles.

DO NOT CREATE A PUTTY out of only Qcells and resin to get to a peanut butter consistency there will not be enough resin in the putty to get it to work I mix to a Ketchup consistency and then add Cabosil if I want a putty at a mayonnaise or peanut butter thixo

FYI do not use talc in a marine environment it will pick up water and delaminate and/or bubble

 

[sailmaster]

Hey warthog! I am able to get acces where every all the way around. I will be bolting it back. I know you said to use an epoxy but would q-cel and iso laminated resin do the trick as well. Planning on taking the complete rub rail off this winter and redoing the whole thing. After putting the lonestar gx 2 winch on the front it seems to be putting extra stress on the bow when pulling anchor. Had over 8 bent and snapped screws. And after peeling back the rest I am realizing most are loose. After all they have been on the for 30+ years. Or would you recommend pulling the whole top cap and reglass the the whole top cap where it mounts to the hull. For some reason they thought 10 1&1/2” screws per foot was better than 3 bolts.....

Cabosil aerosil are thickeners Qcel microballons are a filler I use cotton fiber as a thickener for hole fillers with great results in most resins