Heavy Oil Usage on OX66

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windknotnc

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I took my first offshore trip yesterday on the 23DVCC with 225HP OX66 and burned 62 gallons of fuel but burned an entire remote tank full of oil. That is like 30:1 ratio. The engine runs fine, is responsive, does not have excessive smoke, nor issues idling. Has anyone else experienced this kind of oil burn? Any suggestions besides carrying extra oil?
 
windknotnc":3h2w6tyo said:
I took my first offshore trip yesterday on the 23DVCC with 225HP OX66 and burned 62 gallons of fuel but burned an entire remote tank full of oil. That is like 30:1 ratio. The engine runs fine, is responsive, does not have excessive smoke, nor issues idling. Has anyone else experienced this kind of oil burn? Any suggestions besides carrying extra oil?
There is an oil rod on that motor that can be adjusted. Also ensure your O2 sensor is cleaned, see:

viewtopic.php?f=19&t=10944


But reading other posts about these motors, allegedly the load placed on the boat/motor can result in a higher than normal oil burn. I would check your prop and motor hight. At WOT, you should be turning ideally no more than 200 RPMs of the maximum rated. Most run too steep a pitch prop! If a 5500 RPM motor, I'd want it pitched to run no less than 5300 w/ 1/3rd to 1/2 fuel, std gear, and 2 aboard ... as most boats run much heavier.
 
Yeah definitely an oil pump rod issue. Had an ox66 on the last boat, Yamaha should get roughly a 50:1 ratio at WOT and do a little better when you back off the throttle. Its not uncommon to see 60:1 on a light load. I think Yamaha put out a bulletin for certain models to shorten the threaded section of the rod to get adjustments in spec. Not sure if it covered yours or it might have been for hpdi only not certain on that.

Like Dale said keep the oxygen sensor and sensor tube and also the vst clean for maximum efficiency. Also, do you have a fuel management gauge?
 
Don't have a fuel management gauge but went 125 miles yesterday burning 62 gallons which is 2.01 mpg. Looks like there is a consensus that the oil rod is the source of the problem. I am also going to check on the engine height and prop
 
Here is the full link:

http://www.classicparker.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=10944

As you have guessed, burning that much oil is not normal. I've done a few 110+ mile trips and have had plenty of oil left in the reservoir.

I don't know much about the inner workings of the mechanical oil pump, but do know that it is solely controlled by the position of the throttle by way of a mechanical connection with the topmost throttle valve. The first thing you need to do is check out the oil control rod linkage and make sure it is still connected properly. Check that the white plastic clips on the ends of the control rod are not cracked or loose, etc.. When the throttle is closed, the oil pump lever should be resting right up against the stop.

Apparently these engines, when new are set to burn a little more oil during the initial burn in of the engine. At the first engine service, the oil control rod is supposed to be re-adjusted to normal oil burn rates, so if this service was never performed, you would be burning more oil.

If you really did burn a full tank of oil on 62 gallons of gas, then something else may be wrong, as this is way out of spec.

Take a look at the oil control rod and see if something is obviously wrong. I'd even recommend disconnecting the rod to take a good look at the plastic clip to make sure it isn't broken or cracked. Then re-assemble and make sure that the oil pump lever is resting against the stop pin when the throttle is in the idle position. (Technically, it is supposed to rest against the pin when the throttle valves are fully closed, which would require that you either disconnect the throttle link rod or back off the idle adjustment screw, but this is a small difference that you can ignore for now)

These aren't my pictures but they are a great reference.

The first pic shows the oil control rod, where it connects from the throttle valve on the first cylinder on the left and to the oil pump lever on the right. As the throttle is advanced, this rod moves the oil pump lever and causes more oil to be injected into the system.

The second pic shows a close-up of the oil pump lever. You can see the white plastic clip that attaches to the lever. You can pull the cotter pin, pop the clip off the control lever, loosen the nut and adjust the position of the clip by threading/unthreading it as necessary. Directly under the finger you can see where the oil pump lever rests against the stop pin.

What is interesting is that if the oil control rod was completely disconnected, the spring on the oil pump lever would basically cause the engine to inject less oil into the system.

So your control rod would have to be way out of whack to burn that much oil.

If the oil control rod is adjusted properly, there are only two other options that I can think of that could cause a problem.

The first would be if the system that determines when and how much oil gets pumped from the remote tank to the engine wasn't working properly and was overfilling the engine mounted tank. The overflow from the engine mounted tank would be injected back into the motor via a small hose that connects to the black intake silencer on the front of the engine. You could tell if this was happening by looking at the level of oil in the engine mounted tank. It should never reach the level of the cap and should remain about an inch below the top of the tank.

The only other thing I can think of is that there is a failure of the mechanical oil pump itself, which I don't know anything about as I haven't come across this issue before.

Let us know what you find out when you take a look at the oil control rod and level of oil in the engine mounted tank.

-- Tom
 

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Solid information right there, Thanks Tom, hopefully this will help anyone else who thinks they have an oiling system issue or suspects something is out of limits.
 
I could never get that pin to rest against the stop on my '99 225.
The oil rod is simply too long and it bottoms out on the white clip (which causes it to crack). I have heard of some people that cut a few threads off the rod.
 
Question
So how do you know exactly where the oil rod should be ?
Is there a mark on it or a certain amount of threads that should be showing / not showing?
 
As stated above, you need to adjust the position of the white plastic clip so that the oil pump lever rests against the pin when the throttle valves are fully closed. In order for the throttle valves to be fully closed, you need to temporarily back off the idle adjustment screw or disconnect the throttle control rod on the starboard side of the engine.

-- Tom
 
I think my problem is resolved. My rod had never been adjusted at the first service and it also was too long and bottomed out. Cut 5 threads off with a hacksaw, cleaned up the threads, reinstalled the clip and now it goes all the way without bottoming out in the clip. Because the clip has to move 180 degrees to reattach to the pump it is as close as it can get now. Hopefully this will mitigate some of the high oil usage. Many thanks to all that pointed to the right solution. See Pics

Oil Rod Original Setting


Oil Rod Bottomed out


Oil Rod Fixed
 

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