How do you keep the front windshield open?

[Cheapie408]

How do I lock the front windshield open? It appears that there's supposed to be some kind of knob but mine is broken I think.anyone know an aftermarket replacement?

 

[Antidote]

Here is another option.

https://www.classicparker.com/threads/gas-pistons-for-the-front-windows.18726/

 

[Andy]

How do I lock the front windshield open? It appears that there's supposed to be some kind of knob but mine is broken I think.anyone know an aftermarket replacement?

I know this will not solve a missing knob issue, and I know this will not be a solution for most folks, but I thought I'd offer a possible alternative; a simple way to keep the windows cracked, that works well for my needs. When running the boat, I never have the front windows open more than a few inches. For me, that provides all the ventilation/breeze I need or want; I don't like strong winds blowing in my face, (and glasses) and I don't want water or spray getting in the pilothouse or on the electronics... I use silicone caulking, hardened, then cut to different sizes. The window is closed onto the silicone, then I tighten the struts, to keep it in place when in rough seas. In calm conditions, the weight of the window alone holds it in place.... When at anchor, or at a dock, I'll occasionally open the windows fully, and the struts work fine, when the boat isn't bouncing through waves....The silicon adds some cushioning, and the three different sizes I have, (for different amounts of ventilation), are easy to store. (cut them to any size you want).

 

[Antidote]

You could also use a piece of pool noodle with slit cut into it. Put the slit over the window frame

 

[sydngoose]

I know this will not solve a missing knob issue, and I know this will not be a solution for most folks, but I thought I'd offer a possible alternative; a simple way to keep the windows cracked, that works well for my needs. When running the boat, I never have the front windows open more than a few inches. For me, that provides all the ventilation/breeze I need or want; I don't like strong winds blowing in my face, (and glasses) and I don't want water or spray getting in the pilothouse or on the electronics... I use silicone caulking, hardened, then cut to different sizes. The window is closed onto the silicone, then I tighten the struts, to keep it in place when in rough seas. In calm conditions, the weight of the window alone holds it in place.... When at anchor, or at a dock, I'll occasionally open the windows fully, and the struts work fine, when the boat isn't bouncing through waves....The silicon adds some cushioning, and the three different sizes I have, (for different amounts of ventilation), are easy to store. (cut them to any size you want).
View attachment 28095

Now that’s slick

 

[Lucky John]

Cecil Marine online store has replacement knobs.

 

[Andy]

Now that’s slick

I also use the 'sliced-silicon' as 'feet' under large coolers. It raises the cooler base above the aft deck hatch (the hatch for the battery/bilge/filter compartment). They level the cooler, and prevents stressing/damaging that plastic hatch. And, it makes it easy to hose water under the cooler. The silicone rubber is durable, does not get dirty/moldy. I too have tried pool-noodles for various things on the boats, but found they are not as durable, and I don't like the bright colors (sorry, it's me. I just can't help that! ☺)

 

[mrtodds]

There should be a knob on both port and starboard of each window that tightens a cam on the shaft. They eventually went to stainless on this as the knobs would snap off or the "plastic cam" couldn't grip the strut well enough to hold the window. I've found my local dealer in Maryland to be cheaper than Cecil marine personally, and they have hands-on experience. I am assuming your Parke is 1999 or newer though.

 

[Cheapie408]

it's an 05 2120. the parker replacement part is like $120 a piece.

I bet i can make something like this work
https://www.amazon.com/SeaLux-Stain...+window+support+bracket&qid=1615825845&sr=8-9

 

[HOTPURSUIT]

The AdvanTec Store: Adjusters This should help you out,you can buy just the parts you need, you may need to call them

 

[Cheapie408]

The AdvanTec Store: Adjusters This should help you out,you can buy just the parts you need, you may need to call them

The knob on the parker is plastic including the threads. I'm guessing you just screw in to lock? Both sides of mine are broken and extermely stuck. I might have to drill out the screw and retap the threads. A 3d printed knob can be easily fitted onto a properly threaded bolt. I've done similar for my scotty down rigger.

 

[HOTPURSUIT]

The knob on the parker is plastic including the threads. I'm guessing you just screw in to lock? Both sides of mine are broken and extermely stuck. I might have to drill out the screw and retap the threads. A 3d printed knob can be easily fitted onto a properly threaded bolt. I've done similar for my scotty down rigger.

The new ones are steel the whole assembly was just a few buck so I actually order 4 sets and have 2 spares.

 

[HOTPURSUIT]

On the link I sent tap on seadog adjusters then the next page tap misc. parts you should get to this page the repair ki is what you want

 

[johnkn]

I found that no amount of knob tightening would keep the windows open at speed, but this worked at 58mph.

 

[GotChrist?]

I use silicone caulking, hardened, then cut to different sizes.

What are you using for a mold before cutting to size? I've done something similar but it tends to level itself out.

 

[Andy]

What are you using for a mold before cutting to size? I've done something similar but it tends to level itself out.

I don't use a mold; I use the container it comes in. I buy the standard 1/10 gallon tubes of silicone that we all use in the standard size caulking gun. They will eventually 'go bad' (Cure? harden?) on their own after the first use, and when that started happening 30+ years ago, I'd toss it in the trash. Later I decided I'd like to find a use for it. After it hardens (cures?) I cut away the casing from the silicone caulking, with a sharp-blade utility knife with the depth set about the thickness of the plastic casing, and then slice and/or cut the hardened silicone to various sizes as needed.... Now, since I've found so many uses for it, I always have at least one tube 'intentionally' 'curing' in a shelf in my shop. I speed up the process by removing the entire tip, and taking a sharp-point scratch-all, and poke dozens of tiny holes all over the plastic casing.... What's nice about it on a boat is; it does not deteriorate; it does not get dirty/moldy; it is firm, but rubbery; it is durable.

 

[Cheapie408]

The AdvanTec Store: Adjusters This should help you out,you can buy just the parts you need, you may need to call them

Called them and ordered 2 repair kits. They're about $25 each plus shipping and are stainless which should last awhile.

 

[GotChrist?]

I don't use a mold; I use the container it comes in. I buy the standard 1/10 gallon tubes of silicone that we all use in the standard size caulking gun. They will eventually 'go bad' (Cure? harden?) on their own after the first use, and when that started happening 30+ years ago, I'd toss it in the trash. Later I decided I'd like to find a use for it. After it hardens (cures?) I cut away the casing from the silicone caulking, with a sharp-blade utility knife with the depth set about the thickness of the plastic casing, and then slice and/or cut the hardened silicone to various sizes as needed.... Now, since I've found so many uses for it, I always have at least one tube 'intentionally' 'curing' in a shelf in my shop. I speed up the process by removing the entire tip, and taking a sharp-point scratch-all, and poke dozens of tiny holes all over the plastic casing.... What's nice about it on a boat is; it does not deteriorate; it does not get dirty/moldy; it is firm, but rubbery; it is durable.

Rog. Thanks for the reply. If you want to keep your silicon, 4200, or 5200, or any other caulk alive for multiple uses, stick a clean plug such as a nail in the end, wrap with kitchen clear plastic wrap held in place with a twist tie, and then place in the freezer. I have a large tube of silicon that I used the other day, it's 3rd use, since opening it a year ago. Only portion that hardened was the silicon in the tip which pulled out with the nail.

 

[Andy]

Rog. Thanks for the reply. If you want to keep your silicon, 4200, or 5200, or any other caulk alive for multiple uses, stick a clean plug such as a nail in the end, wrap with kitchen clear plastic wrap held in place with a twist tie, and then place in the freezer. I have a large tube of silicon that I used the other day, it's 3rd use, since opening it a year ago. Only portion that hardened was the silicon in the tip which pulled out with the nail.

Thank you for the tip.... When I try to save the silicone and/or other caulks, I use a large screw in the tip, smother it all around with silicone and cover it with Saran Wrap... It lasts a long time, but not long enough sometimes...I have not tried putting it in the freezer, but will certainly give that a try, specially the next time I use 4200 or 5200; it's too $$$ to let go to waste!