How to improve the ride quality on my Parker 2501CC Deep V

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TRIM TABS use them!
Really inefficient way to level the boat except in extreme conditions. Moving weight forward and adding 4 blade props will change the boat attitude without affecting fuel economy in a negative way. I only use tabs to level boat side to side and when in a stacked head sea where the bow won’t stay down below 20-25 mph and to be comfortable I need to be on plane around 16-18 mph.
 
Really inefficient way to level the boat except in extreme conditions. Moving weight forward and adding 4 blade props will change the boat attitude without affecting fuel economy in a negative way. I only use tabs to level boat side to side and when in a stacked head sea where the bow won’t stay down below 20-25 mph and to be comfortable I need to be on plane around 16-18 mph.
I'd rather be more comfortable and trim it down n burn more fuel than stack a bunch of junk up front!
 
I'd rather be more comfortable and trim it down n burn more fuel than stack a bunch of junk up front!
I agree. I don’t stack a bunch of stuff up front either. I moved my batteries from the bilge to the console to move weight forward and added a 4 blade prop. Those 2 changes make a big difference and limit the amount of tab needed.
 
I agree. I don’t stack a bunch of stuff up front either. I moved my batteries from the bilge to the console to move weight forward and added a 4 blade prop. Those 2 changes make a big difference and limit the amount of tab needed.
Do you have lead acid batteries? I want to move mine forward (parker 2310), but I worry about damaging the batteries by subjecting them to more "pounding"...
 
Do you have lead acid batteries? I want to move mine forward (parker 2310), but I worry about damaging the batteries by subjecting them to more "pounding"...
I would assume they are lead acid since most marine batteries are lead acid.
 
I have a 2320 DV that I’ve had 20 years. Finally switched to a 4 blade, 18 pitch. Really helped lift the stern. Then I added permatrim. I really don’t need to trim down or play with the tabs to plane off anymore. The bow on plane doesn’t ride high anymore. Much better ride quality all around. And when I really want to push the nose down in a stiff chop, the tabs are that much more effective. YMMV!
 
New 2501 dv owner here and I’m looking to improve the ride and economy. Coming from multiple catamarans I’m a big believer in permatrims. I also had one on my 1801 parker and it would be hard for anyone to convince me it’s not the single best investment for that hull.

I do know that not every hull needs them and I’m trying to figure out if the 2501 needs a pair or not. I think it would benefit but I also thing I would need to raise the motors two holes to gain all the benefits without any loses

Can anyone tell me there performance with twin 150s? What prop are you running and speed/rpm/gph and have you tried permatrims thanks
 
2820 here. Four blade props and permatrims made a massive difference. If I bought a brand new one, I wouldn't even take it out until I had them installed.
 
Five guys, 3 over weight adults and 2 teenagers. Honestly, 2501 ride impressively improved. Typical chop that day, close together 2’ to occasional 3’, not too windy. Parker sat lower in the water, that seemed to be the key difference.

Concur with many of the comments. On my second season, twin 200’s, 3 blade, no permatrims. Uncomfortable if push over 25 mph or so in choppy conditions. Flat to 1’ can open it up. Of course. Getting bow down took some getting use to. I gun it, have to be over 3300 rpm, then comes down. Trim tabs then to level out or bring bow down more. Now no prob, I am tall, some shorter buddies do complain about sight lines until bow well down.

Caution on smooth rollers (4’ plus say): a buddy was driving and we were fine, he juiced it just a little bit and we went air borne! Deck went out below me, and got quite a stringer landing. Lesson learned. The boat can take a lot more than I can.
 
I have a 2501 that I’ve owned since new in 2012. I have twin 150’s with just under 700 hours. I fish the NE inshore and mid-shore (50-60 miles). I run 3 blade props that came with the boat. I average 1.75 at 26-29 mph depending on load etc. I tried 2 sets of 4 blades and the boat didn’t feel right to me. I don’t think the 150’s have the torque needed to push the 4 blade. The boat burned more fuel and my cruising speed decreased. My biggest complaint about the boat is that it struggles to stay on plain when it gets really rough when I’m running heavy to the mid-shore grounds. I can bury by trim tabs but I really need to stay on the throttle and tabs at the same time which is not ideal for long runs. I’ve been looking at the sea keeper ride system. If it does what is advertised I think this will rectify most of the complaints folks have about Parker’s in general. If I could keep the boat level while working the throttles according to sea conditions I think I’d save a lot of fuel and it would be a much more comfortable level ride.
 
I should also mention that the sea keeper ride system is now offered on the new Parker 2600. I believe the cost is between $7500-10k and the biggest barrier to entry for me. But if it solves all of my issues I think it would be way cheaper than buying a new boat. I love my boat and the fishabilty.
 
I should also mention that the sea keeper ride system is now offered on the new Parker 2600. I believe the cost is between $7500-10k and the biggest barrier to entry for me. But if it solves all of my issues I think it would be way cheaper than buying a new boat. I love my boat and the fishabilty.
Permatrims are only a few hundred bucks and work very well at accomplishing your goal.
 
Worth a shot for a few hundred bucks.
 
I think what ultimately makes the 25” Parkers not ride that great is the length to beam ratio. IMHO, if the beam was 8’6” the ride would be considerably better.
As an 2012 2520 xld dv owner, I could not agree more w/ this statement. This is the biggest issue we all try to overcome w/ band aids. I will bet the 28 is much more proportional. There's a lot of good in the wide beam but it is a trade off. I spent a lot of time on the old model I/O 25 dv's and those boats were a lot different than the bracket outboard models although I believe the hull is very similar. Between the additional weight (1500-2000lbs??) and the the incorrect weight balance on my new model it requires at least 5 mph additional speed just to stay on plane. For us here on the west coast that's the difference between cutting through our typical chop and flying out of the water. And yes I can use the tabs , kill the fuel economy and get the job done but, imo that is a design flaw. With 200 gallon fuel capacity I believe the tank should be under the wheel house and the boat would be much better balanced.

A buddies old 25 dv would plane very well at 16 knots and go through any seas very comfortably, and get 4mpg with the volvo diesel. The tabs were used just for side to side trim . Just saying...........
 
As an 2012 2520 xld dv owner, I could not agree more w/ this statement. This is the biggest issue we all try to overcome w/ band aids. I will bet the 28 is much more proportional. There's a lot of good in the wide beam but it is a trade off. I spent a lot of time on the old model I/O 25 dv's and those boats were a lot different than the bracket outboard models although I believe the hull is very similar. Between the additional weight (1500-2000lbs??) and the the incorrect weight balance on my new model it requires at least 5 mph additional speed just to stay on plane. For us here on the west coast that's the difference between cutting through our typical chop and flying out of the water. And yes I can use the tabs , kill the fuel economy and get the job done but, imo that is a design flaw. With 200 gallon fuel capacity I believe the tank should be under the wheel house and the boat would be much better balanced.

A buddies old 25 dv would plane very well at 16 knots and go through any seas very comfortably, and get 4mpg with the volvo diesel. The tabs were used just for side to side trim . Just saying...........
Have you tried props and permatrims? Dropped 4 mph on our plane speed, and it drives the bow down. Motors hanging off is a legit design flaw. It can be compensated for. IMO.
 
Have you tried props and permatrims? Dropped 4 mph on our plane speed, and it drives the bow down. Motors hanging off is a legit design flaw. It can be compensated for. IMO.T

Thanks for the ideas. I have the single screw 300 and have a PowerTech 4blade 13pitch now which helped some , mostly with torque from the low pitch. Didn't notice any stern lift , but I'm sure twin screw would have more effect. As far as permatrim goes , when i looked into it a while back it seemed the effect was minimal on single screw 300 2520xld dv's. Seemed the P/T was much more effective on twins and on the 2320, so I didn't go there.

So, all that being said, I now hold the record (I think) for installing the largest tabs (12 x30) on a 2520 in an attempt to effectually lengthen the hull. By just having the tabs down just enough to be parallel with the hull I get some stern lift without any added drag to speak of. It's a on going issue, all thoughts welcomed.
 
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