I/O to outboard conversion 1990 2520 mvph

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Well here is a little update on the boat! We got the fuel tank out. I had a small pin hole in the bottom by the bulk head. Other than that it looked like a brand new tank. Here are some pictures of the progress.1E63BBE3-A590-4A97-878B-B1550ACEBAB1.jpeg
 

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Here’s a couple more
 

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Going to be re wired and cleaned up. 30 years of everyone adding wires. Helm to be re glasses soon.
 

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Here is the latest. The transom is ready for glass.
 

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The fuel tank was completed yesterday. Today I sanded and cleaned the tank. Applied a self etching primer to the tank as well. Then rolled 2 coats of coal tar epoxy. Looks great. Super easy to do. But that stuff really does get everywhere. Also the rear transom got glassed today as well.
 

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On the bracket install. Everytime I did one like your doing it....I installed a piece of alum 4in U channel as a backer that the bolts go thru. I drill the flanges every 6in and 1/4in from the edge 3/16holes. These come in VERY handy for tying cable and wiring up. You can also have a flange welded to it and mount your Racor. The end's of the channel are rounded off, so as not to create hard spots and dig in. These are just "Some" of the details I do that no one see's.....Yet it's what makes for a clean install.

Also Use TeffGell on the stainless mounting bolts. Install Nylon Flat washers under the stainless Flat washers. The objective is to isolate the stainless off the alum of the bracket......The 2 touching is the biggest culprit to corrosion and bubbling on the bracket.
Attention to Details is Key........Your doing Great. :)
 
Well i have been extremely busy out here between rebuilding power lines after the Fires and working on the boat. Sorry I forgot to get pictures of the tank installed before the deck was put on. Everything is going great and should be ready for a Yamaha f300 next week.
 

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So I have some questions about what paint you guys like to use for your non skid and the ratio’s you use? Do I need to prime before I paint? What color should I use? I am no painter that’s for sure but I can’t afford a lot more on this boat! I am planning on using soft sand medium for my additive and that’s as much as I know. Any help is appreciated. As for the boat it is almost near completion. It just went in for the new f300 and rigging.
 

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[quote[ I am planning on using soft sand medium for my additive [/quote]

No..Don't do it! Sand will wear and you will have Lil Black dots all over the deck.

I use Rustolume brand non skid....Get it at Lowes...It's in a small Blue and White can...Use 1/2 of what they say....They say use the whole can per qt of mixed paint. Use a West System roller cover to apply it......Its a thin foam cover and it will NOT fall apart...Be warned about this!

Paint.....Yes you need to prime....Awlgrip 545.......Paint...Awlgrip ...I want to say Egg Shell is the closest match to Parkers gellcoat.....
 
Start with investing in "Weld Mounts" for that wiring.
I'll second that. Just started using their 4020 adhesive for wiring attachment points inside my console. Stuff is the BOMB! Super easy application, parts do not move or sag after you place them, and they're hard as a rock once it's cured. I goofed up and placed one tie base too close to the mounting holes for a terminal block and I'm still trying to figure out how to get that thing off.
 
Stiff blade putty knife and a Hammer.
Earlier in his thread there are photos of solar vents??
Have you seen this before ?
I have not seen it used to keep the voids dry

I used to hustle Nicro/Fico solar vents from AUS for peoples heads
loved them
 
Solar vents ???
Great Idea

Yes. Got a spare set of hatch covers and mounted the solar vents in them.
When the boat is at the dock, the vents were in and set to exhaust.
I also left the hatch in the cabin open which allowed fresh air to flow front to rear, under the deck.

When preparing to get underway, I'd remove the fans and replace the blank hatch covers.
It worked for me. Do you need photos?
 
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