Inboard or outboard?? What are the advantages to both?

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dbranco

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I am looking at a couple different 2520 with an 7.4l or an 250HP yammy or another with twin 150 yammy 4 strokes.

What is the advantages of getting and inboard? Are they better on feul consumption?
 
m2cw

is if the onboard received regular engine service and the outdrive removed and serviced each year, it will last for years like an outboard. If not well maintained with documented service records then repairs can be in thousand's and the heartbreak begins.
 
Outboard (especially the DFI and 4-strokes) seem to be much more sensitive today's crappy fuel than I/Os or inboards. But if you keep up with you fuel system it shouldn't be an issue.
 
I take it we are talking I/OS and not inboards. I would go with the twin outboards my self. I/o you have the engine box taking up deck room. Outboards just seem to be more reliable and a lot less maintinence. I have had 4 I/OS, 1inboard and 2 Outboards. I presently own a parker with Outboards because I am tired of squeeling belts, contorting my self into incredible spots to change plugs, fuel filters and what ever else breaks. plus Outboards areself draining so if you want to take a ride on a nice winterday without having to winterize the motor every time. I keep mine on a lift at the house and run it all year.
 
HOTPURSUIT":5xqx7jpr said:
I take it we are talking I/OS and not inboards. I would go with the twin outboards my self. I/o you have the engine box taking up deck room. Outboards just seem to be more reliable and a lot less maintinence. I have had 4 I/OS, 1inboard and 2 Outboards. I presently own a parker with Outboards because I am tired of squeeling belts, contorting my self into incredible spots to change plugs, fuel filters and what ever else breaks. plus Outboards areself draining so if you want to take a ride on a nice winterday without having to winterize the motor every time. I keep mine on a lift at the house and run it all year.

I have a yam150 on my boat, I take the boat off the lift every year and winterize the motor.

After reading your post I ask, if you have your boat on a lift and you leave your motors in the down position there is no chance that water will freeze anywhere in the motors.
So, there is no reason to winterize for freezing.
 
That is why I sold my inboards boat and bought an Outboards so.I could use it all year. I consolted with a couple of yamaha mechanics before making the decision. Everyone say it is fine. And I have freinds that have done this with no problem. Really looking forward to keeping this boat on the lift and fishing thru December
 
Outboards are a lot easier to swap out and change compared to a i/o. I think if you ever went to sell and you had a brand new o/b on the boat it would sell better then if it was a brand new i/o. It seems all the hoopla is about o/bs and not about i/os.
 
Parker23":1dnef17s said:
Outboards are a lot easier to swap out and change compared to a i/o
Easier :?: ? You betcha! Faster to swap out :?: Also true! But cheaper :?: ? No freakin' way ... !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

As people here may know, I tried to sell my 25' Parker this Summer as the motor was dying, but nobody wanted to pay the $$ and repower it for themselves. Long story short - I ended up missing the cabin, and finally the motor died, so I've been shopping around for a new OB motor. Here are recent prices, installed, with controls and rigging, for new OB motors. Keep in mind one can buy a brand spanking new I/O motor for $5K.

E-Tec 250hp installed - $17.5K

E-Tec 300hp installed - $18.5K

E-Tec 300hp installed (with fly-by-wire controls for 3 stations) - $22K

Suzuki 250hp installed (all new rigging/gauges) - $20K

Suzuki 300hp installed (all new rigging/gauges) - $22K

Yamaha Offshore 300hp - motor only $24K, as installed (all new rigging/gauges) without labor - $28 to $30K and it ain't even a 300hp motor without 89 octane fuel. Quote just confirmed today (02Dec11) from local GW/Yam dealer. Holy cow!

I tell you ... I'd buy a new big block inboard motor for $5K in a heartbeat ...
Other PROS for the I/Os are usually better fuel economy, at least for single motor boats. Better weight distribution and ride.

CONS to I/Os are typically slow speed handling/docking and the LU is always immersed, plus limited shallow water capability.
 
I here what your sayin and new Outboards aren't cheap. But I just had a co-worker of mine ask me my opinion on buying a1992 with a new motor I/O. You just cannot trust. Where this motor came from and if harry homeowner installed it himself. But show me a boat with a new outboard and I am buying reliability with no doubts
 
I've had both. The outboard is great when it runs correctly, don't need to winterize, great for shallow water and some can be tilted all the way out of the water for year round use without paint and no corrosion issues.

A carbed inboard is low tech and about as simple as it gets, and in SC, unlike an outboard, it's part of the boat and not subject to it's own personal property tax.
 
Never said the O/B is cheap new but add all this up for a i/o 5k for a new motor then figure on 3 to 4k for the lower unit plus another couple K in labor and rigging, your up in the 10/12k for a brand new I/O setup. And the price of sleepless nights worry about the boots,bellows letting go! :)
 
Dale, Have you seen the prices on new inboard blocks? I am talking new fully dressed motors, not short blocks where you swap out all the parts from an old motor or remanufactured motors... You are talking more than 10 grand for a 5.7 inboard with fuel injection. This doesnt include an outdrive or the higher cost to install. My bet is that the price to repower with a completely new motor is much higher than you think.
 
Its nice to have the option to switch outboard companies if you feel compelled to, with just a minor modification to the transom bolt pattern Vs the gapeing hole on the transom for i/os all being different.
 
Parker23":3g6ij0e6 said:
Its nice to have the option to switch outboard companies if you feel compelled to, with just a minor modification to the transom bolt pattern Vs the gapeing hole on the transom for i/os all being different.

And I did...because three different shops couldn't get the first (brand spanking new) outboard to run correctly.

From my experience, the desire to swap makes is far less likely to arise with a low tech inboard.
 
The Wellcraft I had was powered with a 5.7 Mercruiser straight inboard. Very easy to maintain and parts were not terribly expensive. The motor in the center of the boat could easily be maintained and provided a low center of gravity. Winterization was simple. Shifting was smooth with the ZF transmission. The transome was left wide open with no outdrives, brackets, or motors to fish around. I launched that boat at any ramp with no problems. Fuel economy was actually much better than the 200 Yamaha I had on my 23SE. I did have to be careful in skinny water. I had maintenance to risers and manifolds to keep up with. That was my experience with an inboard. Sure wish Parker had a straight inboard as an option.

Charlie,
Eden, Maryland
 
If you don't like headaches go with the outboards.I have had straight inboards, inboard/outboards and outboards. The outboards are the way to go. In my opinion,Good luck.
 
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