Indicator bulb out on oem washdown switch.

Classic Parker Boat Forum

Help Support Classic Parker Boat Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

chas650r

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 7, 2020
Messages
116
Reaction score
24
Location
santa barbara ca
oem switch for wash-down on my 2012 2520xld no longer lights up when on. Are the bulbs replaceable? It appears they are small incandescent bulbs behind the switch rocker but maybe led. Any info appreciated.
 
oem switch for wash-down on my 2012 2520xld no longer lights up when on. Are the bulbs replaceable? It appears they are small incandescent bulbs behind the switch rocker but maybe led. Any info appreciated.

Post a picture of the switch so we can tell what type it is. It’s likely a Contura switch body. Available from New Wire Marine for less than $20, probably not even worth messing with the bulbs. Rocker Switch Bodies Archives
 
thanks guys, best i can do w/o disassembly . On the single throw switch the light is in the first groove left of center 20211209_070720.jpg
 
You have good suggestions already.
I would love to find a cheap/simple solution to illuminate them ALL the time, like a small downward facing led.
I second New Wire Marine. Call them up, I didn't see the horizontal versions on the web site.
You could also order one from your Parker dealer, and you may be surprised at the price.
Please post what you find for your solution.
 
Last edited:
thanks guys, best i can do w/o disassembly . On the single throw switch the light is in the first groove left of center View attachment 31603
Yup. That’s a Contura body. The top piece with the printed image pops off with the right tool, also available from NWM. All you have to do is replace the switch body itself with the correct type. I believe your washdown switch will be a SPST with a single LED.
 
You have good suggestions already.
I would love to find a cheap/simple solution to illuminate them ALL the time, like a small downward facing led.
I second New Wire Marine. Call them up, I didn't see the horizontal versions on the web site.
You could also order one from your Parker dealer, and you may be surprised at the price.
Please post what you find for your solution.

Something I did to help with ID'ing switches was to put rubber bump stops next to the switches. Lights have them on the left. Pumps are on the right. The bait well has them on both sides. This way I can find the switch I want without needing to look down at them. Very cheap and very simple.

I also added the hand hold to stop bumping the switches moving around the helm.
IMG_2477.jpeg
 
Something I did to help with ID'ing switches was to put rubber bump stops next to the switches. Lights have them on the left. Pumps are on the right. The bait well has them on both sides. This way I can find the switch I want without needing to look down at them. Very cheap and very simple.

I also added the hand hold to stop bumping the switches moving around the helm.
View attachment 31610
Perfect. Thank you.
Sorry for the derail.
 
Because that boat is low hour and all seems well electrically w/ the switch I may try to replace the bulb . Do I need the cover removal tool or does the cover just snap off the switch body if pried gently ? If I do need the tool I will buy a couple switches also assuming the horizontal switch is the same body as the vertical listed at New Wire. Am I correct that all the bodies they offer are still not LED ?
 
Because that boat is low hour and all seems well electrically w/ the switch I may try to replace the bulb . Do I need the cover removal tool or does the cover just snap off the switch body if pried gently ? If I do need the tool I will buy a couple switches also assuming the horizontal switch is the same body as the vertical listed at New Wire. Am I correct that all the bodies they offer are still not LED ?

You can use a small regular screw driver to get the cover plate off.
 
I could see value in replacing the cabin light switch to an illuminated one, in addition to the rubber nubs mentioned by Antidote. Once you flip that one (twice to get red on mine, I think) you have the rest. I can't see spending 200 bucks to replace new switches.
 
Because that boat is low hour and all seems well electrically w/ the switch I may try to replace the bulb . Do I need the cover removal tool or does the cover just snap off the switch body if pried gently ? If I do need the tool I will buy a couple switches also assuming the horizontal switch is the same body as the vertical listed at New Wire. Am I correct that all the bodies they offer are still not LED ?

I believe the white lamps are still incandescent. The red and blue are LED. The bodies are the same regardless of orientation, only thing that changes is the cover.
 
I could see value in replacing the cabin light switch to an illuminated one, in addition to the rubber nubs mentioned by Antidote. Once you flip that one (twice to get red on mine, I think) you have the rest. I can't see spending 200 bucks to replace new switches.

It depends on the type of switch you have. If the switch body has two lamps, one serves as illumination (usually energized by the nav/anch switch) and the other serves as an indicator that the individual circuit is energized.

In the type of switch cover pictured, the switch body usually has only one lamp that serves as an indicator (with the exception of DT switches, which have a lamp for each energized side of the switch). The lamp illuminates when the circuit is energized. Thus, the need for external identification/illumination.

I’m not sure if the Contura III style as pictured has the option for both internal illumination and indication. The Contura V style, with the laser etched covers, does.

Most style of Contura covers will fit the same switch bodies, so you can upgrade them if you wish. However, unless you have or upgrade to the dual lamp model switch bodies, you’ll still only have one lamp to provide either illumination or indication, depending on how you wire the circuit. Usually single lamp is wired for indication, i.e. showing you the circuit is energized.

Example:
815E3789-B1DD-4CE6-B683-4916CCD9DC96.jpeg
In this Contura III cover, there’s only one window for the illumination to show through. Thus, this would be used with a single lamp body. It will fit on a dual lamp body, but the dual lamps will be useless since there’s only one window. Generally, this window will illuminate when the circuit is energized.

E3C8D761-D6FC-4608-9250-0BA2423F5CAE.jpeg
With this Contura V cover, you have two windows: the “driving” image/text, and the oval window at the bottom of the switch. This is designed to work with a dual lamp switch body: the image and text lights up with the illumination circuit, often energized by the nav/anch switch. The oval window at the bottom lights up when the circuit controlled by that particular switch is energized. Therefore, you have illumination and indication: you can see what the switch does in the dark, and also see if the circuit is energized.

Sorry for the dissertation, but I think I’ve explained that as thoroughly as I can. Just kept coming up with new examples. 😂
 
Last edited:
Back
Top