Is 150 HP enough for 2120 SC

[Little Boat]

I think the Parker 2120 SC is a great idea. Many have a 150 HP Yamaha. Is that the right engine?

 

[Capt. Ron]

I have read many posts on this subject, and many folks think the 150 is underpowered. Mine has a 150hp, at 5500RPM runs at 40MPH. I bought the boat to fish, not race, so this is plenty fast for me. We do get some rough weather in the Long Island Sound where I am from, and I never felt compromised. Its a fantastic boat I feel blessed to own one. I hope you will find as much joy as I did.

 

[miky2884]

My father inlaw has a 2120 with a 150 hp HPDI. When we originally sea trialed the boat we thought the 150 was gonna make the boat under powered to our surprise the 150 is just right for the boat. Obviously being men more HP can never hurt, but with fuel prices rising the 150 is a good fit for it. Just my .02

 

[mtk2120]

I too had concerns when purchasing my 2120, but now 2 seasons later I am very happy with the 150. Especially at the fuel dock. Good luck.

 

[M5]

This topic has been covered many times.

I'm sure a 150 motor is just fine for average usage.

Top speed gets mentioned often, but it's not about top speed.

My experience has taught me that power is most important.

I run my 2120, which has a Yamaha F200 four stroke, in and out of Barnegat Light Inlet in Jersey.

As anyone who runs this inlet can tell you, there can be 3-5' rollers in the inlet when the tides are just right.

We also have strong currents and nasty breakers at the mouth of the inlet.

As mentioned, it's not about top speed, but rather it's about power.

When heading in or out the inlet with 3 guys and gear, the extra ponies under the hood makes all the difference.

You'll enjoy your boat more if you're comfortable using it.

If feel the additional gas consumption is negligible. Safety first!!!!!

Just my belief...... 8)

Kevin M5

 

[samsims]

Its all about how YOU intend to use the boat. Light to moderate loads, the 150 would do the job. Frequent heavy loads, get the 225.

 

[mtk2120]

These guys are right, how and where do you plan on using this boat? Inshore only? Nice days? All factors. Me personally, I fish mostly 2, max 3. I fish out of a rougher location so speed is rarely a factor, once i break the inlet the fun begins. I have had that boat in 4-6 ft seas, also 70 miles out, not recommended. Safety has not been an issue its a good boat but I think experience and familiarity with your abilities are big factors. If you want the extra juice and extra speed than go for it. If I had deeper pockets I would be in a 2520 with twins, hell I'd probably buy a Cabo or Jarrett Bay.But as far as the question am I underpowered? Absolutely not.

 

[mildew2]

My 2120 handles and runs well with the 150 HPDI. Plenty of power and enough top end to get you home quickly if needed. It is just a 2 or 3 person boat when fishing but the deep V helps the ride greatly. I had a 2520 mod.V that didn't take the seas near as well as my 2120 does.JMO

 

[miky2884]

I agree with the above. I believe my father inlaws 2120 rides better then my 2320. I think a lot has to do with the 2120 not having a bracket the 2120 plows more where my boat rides more on the stern because of the bracket. But his 2120 is like a little tank great boat. Just lacks the fishing room.

 

[johnsw]

I also frequent Barnegat Inlet like M5, above. Mine is an '04 2120SC with 150 carb 2-stroke. Hasn't been an issue, usually fishing 2 people on board.

 

[markman03]

Has anyone ever had a problem with oil leaking from the day tank when the engine is up?

 

[johnsw]

Yep. Started happening to me in my 3rd season with it (bought new in '04, so I'm the only owner). I never was able to figure out what the root cause was. I just know that after a few days with the engine tilted, most of the oil in the main tank would have siphoned back into the resevoir. Since the oil pump is really slow and low volume, it would take most of the startup cycle (180 seconds, if I remember correctly) just to prime the line. Once I was on my way, a few minutes later my low oil alarm would sound. Shut the engine off and restart it, then everything would be fine for the rest of the day because once the line was primed, it pumped enough oil to get past the low oil sensor and fill the tank.

Had me going for quite some time before I finally figured out why I had low oil. Everything I was finding indicated a bad check valve in the oil line that goes from main tank to the resevoir in the bilge. Problem was couldn't find a check valve anywhere in between. And the Yamaha service manual doesn't show one in any of the diagrams either. So I found one with a real low pressure cracking point, installed it and haven't had a problem since.

 

[markman03]

I just got off the phone and the service center told me to put a fresh tie wrap on the oil level sensor to snug it up around the top of the tank. He said the tank starts to lose it's shape because of the heat. The need to come up with a better sealing o ring in my opinion.

 

[johnsw]

Give it a try, but that might not fix it. You've got nothing to lose and it's simple to do. And hey, I've been wrong before.

I think what they told you sounds reasonable at first, but I'm skeptical because it's not a closed system to begin with. If it was, an air tight system would prevent gravity from siphoning the oil out due to the negative pressure (vacuum) that would develop at the high spot , like in the air space of the tank on the engine.

But it's not a closed system, at least on mine, because there is a small hose that goes from the top of the engine tank to the air breather. That's there in the event the oil pump doesn't shut off and causes the tank to over fill. Oil then goes directly to the air intake where, hopefully, most of it would go into a carburator to be burned off. I guess all the smoke I'd get would be my warning that something is wrong. And, it's also a vent that allows air to escape when the oil pump kicks on and pumps oil into the tank.

It's been a few years since I worked on the problem, but I seem to recall that when I clamped off the overflow hose and left the engine tilted, my system stayed air tight and the oil didn't backflow. So I know mine was air tight to at least that point. But when I traced it all out and looked at the diagrams to figure out what it's purpose in life was, there's nothing there that should make it a closed system.

So, I decided to admit defeat and just put in a stinkin' check valve and be done with it. Time spent working on this problem was less time spent fishing.

Let me know if anything helps. I probably won't change anything on my engine at this point, but it would be good to know what the solution turns out to be.