Is it safe to lag screw in a tall seat pedestal?

[fishmanjs]

Looking for some advice; I have a 2510 WA, 2008. I removed both the helm seat and storage box it was screwed into to enable me to troll easier. I'd like to install a basic 30" pedestal (as the helm seat) in place of the storage box.

Is it ok to use toggle bolts through the deck? Or is that too risky? I cannot get to the underside to place any additional support plate.

Many thanks to anyone who knows or has other advice.

JOE

 

[MadGar]

My 2320 had 2 pedestal (long) seats in the cabin and I removed them to put seats with storage. From the factory they were put in with lag bolts. In fact, the seats I built and place in there are also lag bolted in. So, yes, you can lag bolt your pedestal seats in.
Good luck

 

[PKS1801]

30 inches is a lot of leverage, so the bigger the base diameter, the more you counter that leverage. And, the more bolts the better

 

[mheltunen]

If you decide to go that route mark and drill the holes (a tad oversized) then fill with epoxy resin. Once set drill thru the epoxy and lag into that. If the caulking ever fails and starts to leak your deck core is protected from water intrusion


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[fishmanjs]

Thank you guys! As soon as it gets a little warmer I have my project. And its anti-virus!

JOE

 

[Papdaddy]

what did you do with the storage boxes that they were mounted to? I'd be interested in them.

 

[warthog5]

I cannot get to the underside to place any additional support plate.

Sure you can. You use the correct hardware.

https://www.fisheriessupply.com/garelick-reinforcement-mounting-plate-for-seat-bases-75057

 

[raysbigfish]

I had these aluminum plates made, then anodized

 

[GotChrist?]

Toggler brand, stainless snap toggles. Shame Lowes or HD don't carry the stainless version, only the standard version made for drywall. These are what a local, well known tower maker and installer uses and what I used to mount an anchor roller in a honeycomb cored, hollow pulpit on a Mako. Find the bolt size you need, then drill the required hole to get the toggle through. Pull up, lock into place, snap the legs off. Mount the chair with machine bolts. A great thing about them is that you can remove the bolts and the chair mount should you need to and reinstall without compromising the integrity.

Gaerlick sells them under their name at substantially higher prices.
Buy here: McMaster-Carr

Because the site removed the link to the exact item, you need to scroll down to find:

Page 3536

High-Strength Toggle Anchors

These high-strength toggle anchors provide an extremely strong hold and stay in position when a bolt is removed. To install, push the toggle through a drilled hole and pull the anchor back toward you until the toggle rests flush against the wall. Then, slide the cap up to the wall and snap off the straps. Next, position your fixture, insert a screw and tighten. For use with machine screws; minimum screw length is the wall and fixture thicknesses plus 1/2".


18-8 Stainless Steel Toggle

 

[warthog5]

The one that I posted is much stronger and cleaner. You bore a 4in hole thru the deck. Epoxy seal the core. Then center the flange.....Stick hand thru the 4in hole to align curved nut plates. Pedistal screws into that plate. [taped holes] Takes up less room. No toe stubbing sticking out. It's thru bolted and.......It's removable if need be.

 

[sailmaster]

Warthog - correct again !!! This is one of the best ways I have found to spread out the extraordinary loads of a pedestal much less a TALL pedestal. I was installing these 30 years ago

 

[GotChrist?]

The one that I posted is much stronger and cleaner. You bore a 4in hole thru the deck. Epoxy seal the core. Then center the flange.....Stick hand thru the 4in hole to align curved nut plates. Pedistal screws into that plate. [taped holes] Takes up less room. No toe stubbing sticking out. It's thru bolted and.......It's removable if need be.

That's the best method yet.