Kill Switch ideas

[TheOtherLine]

The AP I am installing includes an in line kill switch. Used, presumably, to disengage the AP in an emergency and allow the operator to manually steer the boat.

Problem is that the install instructions require that the switch be installed in material whose thickness is 1/5th inch or less. I don't know of any surface material in a Parker less than 1/5th of an inch.

Anyway, I know I can wire it to an available circuit breaker, but I don't want to be fumbling for a circuit breaker in an emergency.

What I need is something like those big game show buttons that I can mash when I need to kill power.

Any ideas anyone?

 

[DaleH]

The AP I am installing includes an in line kill switch.

Problem is that the install instructions require that the switch be installed in material whose thickness is 1/5th inch or less. I don't know of any surface material in a Parker less that 1/5th of an inch.

I had the same problem when I switched away from ignition & kill switch into a binnacle and went to Morse controls, as the switches needed to be mounted separately. I ended up drilling 2-3" holes into the helm with hole saws and then used a thin 1/8" Starboard-like material to hold the switch. Neat idea if I may say myself, less the 'patch' appearance. But I used black material so it looks look, matches switch bezels like used on trim tab rocker switches.

Any ideas anyone?

Sure! I'd buy a remote ignition kill lanyard (<$20) and wire that in! In am emergency ... change the tag to say WHEN AUTOPILOT FAILS ... PULL THIS CORD!

NOTE, it will be a Sierra or off-brand one, like from Boater's World ... the Yumster part would be prohibitively expen$ive for performing the same function. Or, buy a auto-type removable ignition kill switch, like this ($30):

 

[TheOtherLine]

The AP I am installing includes an in line kill switch.

Problem is that the install instructions require that the switch be installed in material whose thickness is 1/5th inch or less. I don't know of any surface material in a Parker less that 1/5th of an inch.

I ended up drilling 2-3" holes into the helm with hole saws and then used a thin 1/8" Starboard-like material to hold the switch. I used black material so it looks look, matches switch bezels like used on trim tab rocker switches.

Any ideas anyone?

Sure! I'd buy a remote ignition kill lanyard (<$20) and wire that in! In am emergency ... change the tag to say WHEN AUTOPILOT FAILS ... PULL THIS CORD!

I like your first idea better. I think the second idea would kill the motor.

I just want to kill the autopilot pump so I can take over manually. If, for example, the AP has me steering right into a crap trap marker and I don't have enough time to use the AP controls to redirect the boat, I can just mash the kill switch and manually make the quick turn away.

Thanks Dale!

 

[DaleH]

I like your first idea better. I think the second idea would kill the motor.

I meant just using the 'kill switch' device to kill the AP circuit ... NOT kill the motor.

 

[sparky]

I like your first idea better. I think the second idea would kill the motor.

I think he was talking about using an engine kill switch attached to the power line to the AP, not the engine.

All you need is a switch, any kind will work, tied into the power to the AP.

 

[TheOtherLine]

I like your first idea better. I think the second idea would kill the motor.

I meant just using the 'kill switch' device to kill the AP circuit ... NOT kill the motor.

Duh! My bad. I misunderstood.

 

[In Agreement]

What about this???


http://www.lambind.com/switches/pushbut ... /pr1.shtml

Or This.

GAME TYPE 5 AMP SWITCH/12 VOLT LIGHT PDF Spec sheet for Game Switches [PDF Help]


big momentary game type switch. Momentary-action, S.P.D.T lighted pushbutton switch for displays and games. The rugged snap-action switch assembly is designed for millions of operations. Red 2.08" round polycarbonate lens. Rated 5 Amps @ 125/250 Vac. The assembly is lighted with a replaceable 12 Volt, 3 Watt, #161 wedge-base lamp. Matte black plastic 2.44" diameter x 0.58" high bezel. 0.93" diameter threaded bushing with a plastic nut mounts in panels up to 0.70" thick. See spec sheet for mechanical drawings.


CES # GMSL1BCA AMBER PUSH BUTTON SWITCH $4.75
CES # GMSL1BCB BLUE PUSH BUTTON SWITCH $4.75
CES # GMSL1BCG GREEN PUSH BUTTON SWITCH $4.75
CES # GMSL1BCR RED PUSH BUTTON SWITCH $4.75
CES # GMSL1BCW WHITE PUSH BUTTON SWITCH $4.75

(Enter Quantities Above, Then Click To Add All Above Selected Into Cart)



Or This One

http://www.directindustry.com/prod/micr ... 54786.html

 

[sparky]

No matter what you get, make sure its waterproof, or has a rubber cover on it.

 

[TheOtherLine]

In Agreement - Another good find.

Sparky - Another goof point.

That's what's so great about this site! It's members willingness to take time out of their day to help a brotha' out.

 

[sparky]

In Agreement - Another good find.

Sparky - Another goof point.

That's what's so great about this site! It's members willingness to take time out of their day to help a brotha' out.

I think

Yeah, we'll call it that.


that and shirking writing the report for work I was working on...

 

[In Agreement]

In Agreement - Another good find.

Sparky - Another goof point.

That's what's so great about this site! It's members willingness to take time out of their day to help a brotha' out.

I think

Yeah, we'll call it that.


that and shirking writing the report for work I was working on...

Or an extended lunch away from work here at the house :wink: :wink:

 

[Megabyte]

Here is something else that could be used with that kill switch idea, and it's wireless. It's called an AutoTether.
They are marketed as a kill switch for the motor in a MOB situation, but it could also work with your 'kill the power to the AP' idea.

http://www.byownerelectronics.com/store ... t=0&page=1

 

[TheOtherLine]

Here is something else that could be used with that kill switch idea, and it's wireless. It's called an AutoTether.
They are marketed as a kill switch for the motor in a MOB situation, but it could also work with your 'kill the power to the AP' idea.

http://www.byownerelectronics.com/store ... t=0&page=1

You mean this? :wink: Just got delivered yesterday. Going to put it on the boat tomorrow.

I bought it when I decided to do the AP. It's not easy finding people to go fish with so, since I'm going to be doing more fishing by myself, particularly trolling, I thought it would be a good addition to the safety equipment inventory.

Out of all the switches I've seen, including some of the ones my fellow CP'rs have shown me, either aren't water resistant (much less waterproof) or don't have a "reset" feature like the Raymarine one has. Not sure that the "reset" feature has any value as I assume that I can just press the power button on the AP to get going again, but, I'm not sure. Maybe it's like the "resume" feature on an automobile cruise control.

Dale H gave me an idea, I think I'm going to run with.

I am going to use a 2 x 2 piece of black plastic, made of the same material they make name tags out of. It's the correct thickness. I can have it engraved to read AP Kill. It has an adhesive backing.

All I have to do is drill the 11/16 hole in the plastic plate and an 11/16ths hole in the helm. The helm hole has to be countersunk with a 3/4 bit so that the hex nut on the switch will lay flush.

I can attach the switch to the plastic plate, peel off the adhesive (therefore no more holes) and we're done! ( I hope ).

 

[Megabyte]

Here is something else that could be used with that kill switch idea, and it's wireless. It's called an AutoTether.
They are marketed as a kill switch for the motor in a MOB situation, but it could also work with your 'kill the power to the AP' idea.

http://www.byownerelectronics.com/store ... t=0&page=1

You mean this? :wink: Just got delivered yesterday. Going to put it on the boat tomorrow.

Yes sir!
That item is on "my list" of upgrade items. :wink:

 

[TheOtherLine]

Well, using Dale's idea, I was able to use and mount the stock kill switch. I decided on the stock switch because it's all plastic, water resistant and has a built in reset feature. I've been told having a kill switch is not necessary. One should be able to apply enough helm to veer away from any obstacles but I figure that Raymarine included it for a reason. Maybe just liability...

Anyway, I had a local engraving shop make a 2.5 inch plate. I attached the kill switch to the plate, through the 11/16ths hole. Then I drilled a 1 1/4 inch hole in the helm to accommodate the width of the connector.

I epoxied the hole, let it dry and dropped it in.

Thanks for all the ideas.

 

[WCS]

That is slick!

wayne

 

[MaxOut]

Well I guess it's too late for my reply but I will give it anyway. I have the same AP and ran into the same dilemma. I drilled through from the back with a 1 1/8" whole saw until I was within the thickness required (Tape on the bit to stop it) Then I drilled back through the other side pilot hole with a uni bit until the whole was the correct size for the switch. Then I took a screw driver and popped out the ring from behind and it mounted perfect.

 

[DaleH]

Well, no wonder you need a kill switch :shock: , you have that huge freakin' TV set right there in front of you on the dash! :wink:

Glad my idea worked out for you !

 

[TheOtherLine]

Well, no wonder you need a kill switch :shock: , you have that huge freakin' TV set right there in front of you on the dash! :wink:

Glad my idea worked out for you !

I'm willing to bet you have a pair of cheaters tucked away in your pocket somewhere. If not, that day will come!! I need BIG letters and numbers.

 

[TheOtherLine]

I was under the impression one could simply turn the wheel (arm power) to steer around an obstacle. :?

(you can, i tried it).... However, the pump will fight you. Also not sure if you use the wheel instead of killing power, you may not be damaging the hydraulics somehow.

I've had three cases where I've had to dodge a trap marker. Used the wheel once, and used the steering controls on the remote the other two.

I think the emergency kill switch is for product liability purposes. Had I had hands on experience with the unit, I probably would NOT have installed the switch.