Lenco actuator replacement

[albiejunkie]

Hi all,
After trying to pull any wire from the transom of my 2008 2520XL to splice a new actuator in, I realize that I can't even get a millimeter out. There is some sealant in there but it seems there is no slack behind there to get enough.
Has anyone run into this problem?
I can't get in to the bilge to access the point where the wire exits either. I tried to take a picture along the inside of the transom but could see nothing to tell me anything.

Please Help!

 

[mheltunen]

Is it possible to run new wires and abandon the current ones? Or splice new ones in at a convenient location? I’ve had some tight spots and used a fish tape to pull wires thru.


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[Brent]

Any pics?


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[albiejunkie]

I can't get the wire to come out or go in

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[mheltunen]

The transom there is at least 2” thick and if that’s 5200 it’s basically glued in. If you have some long mechanics picks try pushing that in all the way around the wire to break up the caulking.


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[Brent]

There is 3M debonding solution
https://www.boatingmag.com/marine-solve ... oving-5200


Are the wires still hot.?


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[albiejunkie]

Are the wires still hot.?

Only when my battery switch is on.
I'm going to try diggi g with mechanics picks for a while. What do you think of leaving the top cap of the old actuator and putting the new unit on that?




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[got_em_on]

I would put new actuator on old cap like you mentioned.

 

[albiejunkie]

So I tried picking away at it with picks and ended up tearing the outer sheathing of the wire. Individual wire sheathing is still intact. Still couldn't budge the wire.
Called a friend over to get another set of eyes on this and he brought his 4' scope. I now realize why the wire wouldn't move.
I found that the wire comes through the transom at a 30 degree angle downward towards the bow. They did this to miss going through the deck. However, they did skim the deck as it enters the bilge creating a channel/pocket where the wire enters. So what I have here is a 1.5"-2" hole through the transom, then an angled groove in the bottom of the deck for about another 2" that my wire rides through. This is all full of sealant.
I'm sure this was done because the actuator had to be mounted where it is mounted for alignment and geometry to the tab. Sorry no pic of this, his scope wouldn't take a pic. What I will do, and what I think Parker should have done in the first place, is offset the wire from the top bracket slightly inboard and lower to make a straight hole just below the deck.
Once I get the new wire in, I will need to fish it amidship to connect to the duetche connectors (which, btw are lost in a giant wire bundle with 100 wire ties).
Picture shows that Parker did this before the bracket was installed. There is no way to get a drill in there now with that bracket there.

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[albiejunkie]

Oh, forgot to mention that new units have a slightly different cap on them. Old cap doesn't fit

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[mheltunen]

It’s frustrating sometimes when a fairly straightforward project goes sideways. But ironically sometimes a difficult project turns out to be easy. Glad you found a solution.


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