Manifold and risers replace?

[Seachaser]

I have a Volvo Penta 5.0 GI year 2000, the manifold and risers have never been replaced so I've been told it's time. The system has RWC Raw water Cooling. I got two quotes at $2-3K$, out of my budget. To save money and learn I would like to do it myself. I have never done this before and was hoping to hear from someone who's done it themselves. I am pretty mechanical. I'm not sure the level of expertise required.

Do both manifold and risers need be replaced?
Where are the best place to get genuine Volvo parts Boston area.
Should I retrofit the Cooling to a Closed Fresh Water system (Cools Block Only) while I'm at it?
Do they sell this replacement in kit form? not sure of the exact parts needed.

Thanks..

 

[ultrasport]

No professional but def time to replace the risers and exhaust manifolds, saw mechanics in my yard pull an exhaust manifold off a 2005 volvo today with hole size of nickel. I had my risers on my old boat get salt water intrusion and say the least im now a happy parker owner cause salt water got into the oil and blew my motor. I think both risers and exhaust manifolds should be changed every 2-3 seasons.

 

[scottywotty]

The parts should not run anymore than about $1,000 for new factory manifolds. You can do the installation yourself easily.
Drain your old ones down, remove old parts, clean block of all rust , gasket material, and any leftover paint ,so that all of the surfaces
are extremely clean, use factory gaskets and and hardware. Torque to factory specs. and your good for a few more seasons. Normally, the rule is the risers/elbows need to be replaced about every three years and a full set about every five years. As far as FWC goes, its highly overrated, the only thing being protected by fresh water and coolant is the block, and I've seen many a block that was RWC look no worse than any FWC ones. Of course if you leave your boat in the water and you don't have access to fresh water and saltaway then you might want to install a heat exchanger. JMHO

Scotty

 

[Seachaser]

Sounds good!

Any recommendations on getting the best price on genuine Volvo Penta parts?

Thanks

The parts should not run anymore than about $1,000 for new factory manifolds. You can do the installation yourself easily.
Drain your old ones down, remove old parts, clean block of all rust , gasket material, and any leftover paint ,so that all of the surfaces
are extremely clean, use factory gaskets and and hardware. Torque to factory specs. and your good for a few more seasons. Normally, the rule is the risers/elbows need to be replaced about every three years and a full set about every five years. As far as FWC goes, its highly overrated, the only thing being protected by fresh water and coolant is the block, and I've seen many a block that was RWC look no worse than any FWC ones. Of course if you leave your boat in the water and you don't have access to fresh water and saltaway then you might want to install a heat exchanger. JMHO

Scotty

 

[Ryan C]

I'm in the same boat as you and I'd like to make the change to a FWC system and I'm pretty upset that the don't make a full system for my motor (7.4Gi).

Does anyone know why there are 'block only' systems for volvo penta's but you can easily buy block & manifold system for there mercruiser counterparts?!

 

[finfish1]

Hey-

I deal with Marine Engines in Holliston, Mass.
Bought two engines( Long blocks) from them, and risers and manifolds last year for my Blackfin 29 ( 1991), which by the way is for sale for 30K.
Anyhow, they have the best prices, very knowledgeable.
FWC, definitely, if your going to keep the boat for a few more years.
[email protected]/ 800-786-7639.
Not sure what boat you have, or age.
Sometimes it's easier, and a better job if you pull the engine/engines.
Depending on access/age.
Buy a service manuel for specifications, etc. ie, save $, bond/learn engine.

Reel Job

 

[NortonSmitty]

I have a 2001 2520 MV with a 5.7 Volvo/Penta DuoProp. The manifolds and risers were original when I bought it about a year ago. Even though it only had 152 hours and had sat on a lift in a boat house, you could break off pieces of the cast iron just with your fingers! They were plugged solid with rust.
I looked at replacing with new Volvo/Penta parts, but the best price I could find was around $1,500. I used aftermarket Osco manifolds and risers, made in the USA, fit fine and cost less than $600 delivered. It's a Chevy engine, same one used on Mercruisers and others, so I really cant see spending over twice as much for the V/P logo on the side. They cool fine, no problems after one year, and since I plan on replacing every three years or so, I cant justify the extra cost. I would recommend you check them out.

 

[Bucktail]

No need to go with Volvo replacement manifolds. You will easily pay 2x the amount. As the other guy said, get yourself some Osco's, and put a couple coats of black paint on them (Mercury Marine makes spray paint just for exhaust manifolds).

After re-installing and everything checks out OK, make sure you re-torque the manifold bolts one more time after running the boat.

 

[dcunniff]

I have a 5.7L GI and have done manifolds and risers twice on a 1996 boat. First time had dealer do, second time we did (2002 and 2009).

Was <$1000 for this size in Volvo parts.

There's a Parker dealer on north shore, south shore, Cape, and RI. Can go to any Volvo boat dealer. Or can do Osco as mentioned.

Engine rebuilderrs sell them too, like in Worcester.

If do yourself, pull off hoses, bellows, risers, manifolds. Clean engine block face at manifold, put gasket and manifold on and use some anti sieze on bolts. Cross tighten to specification. Mount risers and gaskets. Tighten bellows and hoses, replace where needed.

Turn on engine, heat up, check for leaks, cool down, retighten manifold stud bolts.

Dana