warthog5
Well-known member
What hole is your motor mounted in? Usually a boat will respond well to the motor being raised. The dealer /Factory usually don't really care.
My '95 2530
- Thread starter warthog5
- Start date
Help Support Classic Parker Boat Forum:
warthog5
Well-known member
OK We got Lucky. The torch on the housing freed the bolts I had broken 1, but after the T&T motor came off there was a nub about 3/16 to 1/4in long sticking up. I heated the housing all around it and it came right out with vise grips.
The system was full of watered down oil. Drained it, cleaned what we could with Brakeclean and blew it out with compressed air.
Took a few hours but with attending to 4 granddaughters 2,3,8 &9yrs old it was a handful. Still it was a relief to come apart and not have to do any drilling and tapping.
The system was full of watered down oil. Drained it, cleaned what we could with Brakeclean and blew it out with compressed air.
Took a few hours but with attending to 4 granddaughters 2,3,8 &9yrs old it was a handful. Still it was a relief to come apart and not have to do any drilling and tapping.
warthog5
Well-known member
Finished bleeding the system today and had to pickup a metric bolt that broke.
1st time ever using this lil camera as a movie Vid.
1st time ever using this lil camera as a movie Vid.
Bryan 2530
Well-known member
Nice!
Looks like the trim switch is hooked up backward? Or at least opposite of mine.
Looks like the trim switch is hooked up backward? Or at least opposite of mine.
warthog5
Well-known member
I thought the same thing.....Then when I tried it at the helm it was backwards too.
What it turned out to be is the internal hook up of the wires in the T/T motor.
So I swapped the Blue wire onto the Green terminal and the Green wire onto the Blue terminal and they function correctly now.
What it turned out to be is the internal hook up of the wires in the T/T motor.
So I swapped the Blue wire onto the Green terminal and the Green wire onto the Blue terminal and they function correctly now.
warthog5
Well-known member
Changed out the battery trays. TH Marine OUT...Attwoods IN. These are the trays I use in everything now and have for some years.
There is no corrosion issue.....There is no need for a wrench....The threads are extra coarse and easy to use. Once the tie bar and wing bolts are removed you can pull the battery in ANY direction. Something that is needed in some really tight fit boats. They just make life easier.
OLD:
New:
1 Gp24 & 1 Gp27
More out with the old.
In with the New.
There is no corrosion issue.....There is no need for a wrench....The threads are extra coarse and easy to use. Once the tie bar and wing bolts are removed you can pull the battery in ANY direction. Something that is needed in some really tight fit boats. They just make life easier.
OLD:
New:
1 Gp24 & 1 Gp27
More out with the old.
In with the New.
I have a whole box of brand new Blue Seas stuff on my workbench to do the same thing.
Have not gotten around to ripping into it because the old stuff has been flawless so far.
Guess I need to watch your thread for motivation.
Why one group 24 and one group 27?
One house and one starting, or was it a space issue?
Have not gotten around to ripping into it because the old stuff has been flawless so far.
Guess I need to watch your thread for motivation.
Why one group 24 and one group 27?
One house and one starting, or was it a space issue?
warthog5
Well-known member
Bingo!
Start is the 24 and House is the 27 DC
warthog5
Well-known member
Got the other fuel sending unit today and installed it. Both tanks now showing 1/2 Full.
Got the new battery cables all built. I have a Gp34 Optima and a Gp31 Deep cycle just shoved in there right now until my buddy comes down with the new Interstate Gp24 starting and Gp 27 Deep Cycle.
Cables are not tied up yet.
Going to rework the bilge pump wiring with a terminal board in the back. I'll also add a 2000GPH Rule w/ High water alarm.
The terminal board is something I do for ease of testing down the road and ease of replacing a pump or float switch.
You can see it in this pix in my Mako.
Another Mako that I wired.
Got the new battery cables all built. I have a Gp34 Optima and a Gp31 Deep cycle just shoved in there right now until my buddy comes down with the new Interstate Gp24 starting and Gp 27 Deep Cycle.
Cables are not tied up yet.
Going to rework the bilge pump wiring with a terminal board in the back. I'll also add a 2000GPH Rule w/ High water alarm.
The terminal board is something I do for ease of testing down the road and ease of replacing a pump or float switch.
You can see it in this pix in my Mako.
Another Mako that I wired.
If you open the back of the 2530 like you did in the Mako, you may be able to duplicate that layout.
If not... I know from experience that access to that area will be a bit 'constrained'.
I've spent a lot of time with my head and shoulders stuffed into that area, so I wish you all the luck in the world.
As always, I know you'll do good.
If not... I know from experience that access to that area will be a bit 'constrained'.
I've spent a lot of time with my head and shoulders stuffed into that area, so I wish you all the luck in the world.
As always, I know you'll do good.
warthog5
Well-known member
You just mount the buss bar for easy access Kev. IE: Right in the center of one of the hatches.
IE: Right in the center of one of the hatches.gw204
Well-known member
Looks good Bobby!
I used those same battery trays in my current Grady project. Drilled the same holes for drainage that you did.
I used those same battery trays in my current Grady project. Drilled the same holes for drainage that you did.
warthog5
Well-known member
:mrgreen:
warthog5
Well-known member
I got checked by the CG this year. I didn't have the type VI throw able on board. It was in the garage at home DA! My fault but it did make it sink in. Those type IV throw ables are supposed to be radially available. Problem is they can get in the way. So I went and measured the bulkhead to the STB side of the door. A 20in unit will fit perfect. I ordered a Orange one. Easy for Marine Patrol, CG to see.
I also ordered a special bracket. Not just any bracket, but one that would not let it swing and frail around, yet be radially at hand.
I ordered the 24 X 9 Bennetts w/ the EIC Switch/ monitor from BOE
Lets see....I ordered 2 - 316 Stainless 1 1/8in 90deg thru hull fittings and a 3/4in straight one for the front bilge pump discharge. I'll be adding a 2nd rear bilge pump [2000GPH] and High water alarm also.
All plastic thru hulls will go in the garbage.
I also ordered a special bracket. Not just any bracket, but one that would not let it swing and frail around, yet be radially at hand.
I ordered the 24 X 9 Bennetts w/ the EIC Switch/ monitor from BOE
Lets see....I ordered 2 - 316 Stainless 1 1/8in 90deg thru hull fittings and a 3/4in straight one for the front bilge pump discharge. I'll be adding a 2nd rear bilge pump [2000GPH] and High water alarm also.
All plastic thru hulls will go in the garbage.
warthog5":1msbzulk said:I ordered the 24 X 9 Bennetts w/ the EIC Switch/ monitor from BOE
Lets see....I ordered 2 - 316 Stainless 1 1/8in 90deg thru hull fittings and a 3/4in straight one for the front bilge pump discharge. I'll be adding a 2nd rear bilge pump [2000GPH] and High water alarm also.
All plastic thru hulls will go in the garbage.
Now you're talking!
got_em_on
Well-known member
Anybody know if Lenco makes a switch like that or if I can use that one on lenco Tabs? I like the light indicators on the side.
warthog5
Well-known member
I choose this over the NEMA 2000 hookup that would display on the Chartplotter. While that is neat, sometimes you can just have a piece of equipment that is to busy with info.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.lencomarine.com/index.php/pr ... kit-single
They auto retract too.
http://www.boemarine.com/Lenco_Trim_Tab ... 15070-001/
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.lencomarine.com/index.php/pr ... kit-single
They auto retract too.
http://www.boemarine.com/Lenco_Trim_Tab ... 15070-001/
got_em_on":259y3qfi said:
Go to the Bennett web site and ask Tabman. He would know if that switch would work with Lenco tabs.
http://www.bennetttrimtabs.com
warthog5
Well-known member
Today I was sanding some of this bottom paint off in preparation for the trim tabs to show up.
I remover the scupper Flapper to get it out of the way. If your boat has some years on it and you haven't inspected this I suggest you do.
The outside lip of the brass tube had separated from the tube. This will induce water into your nice wood transom.
So one of my pet peeves are pockets that hold dirt and water. It holds sand a dirt that you just can't wash easily out of the boat.
So I take a screwdriver and hammer and remove the brass sleeve on the STB side. Yep it was a little damp. I've replaced a bunch of those sleeves. I do it with PVC and epoxy.
Stb side
Port side
But now I'm going to fix both problems. I turned a wooden dowel on my lathe 1 1/4in OD and drove into the scupper holes. I used a 1 1/4in Fostner bit set inside the hole a little for a guide and marked the center on the dowel well. I then used the mini drill press to bore a pilothole thru the middle of the dowel. This set it up to guide the holesaw pilot bit and cut a 1 3/4in hole thru the transom. This is just slightly larger than 1 1/4in PVC pipe. I used sch 20 as it will flow more water than sch40.
Tools used.
The transom is wetted out with resin and then Cabisol is mixed with the resin. The outside of the PVC is sanded with 80gt. The PVC is cut a little shorter than the hole and the epoxy/cabsol mix is filleted in the outside edges. This makes sure it's sealed.
I remover the scupper Flapper to get it out of the way. If your boat has some years on it and you haven't inspected this I suggest you do.
The outside lip of the brass tube had separated from the tube. This will induce water into your nice wood transom.
So one of my pet peeves are pockets that hold dirt and water. It holds sand a dirt that you just can't wash easily out of the boat.
So I take a screwdriver and hammer and remove the brass sleeve on the STB side. Yep it was a little damp. I've replaced a bunch of those sleeves. I do it with PVC and epoxy.
Stb side
Port side
But now I'm going to fix both problems. I turned a wooden dowel on my lathe 1 1/4in OD and drove into the scupper holes. I used a 1 1/4in Fostner bit set inside the hole a little for a guide and marked the center on the dowel well. I then used the mini drill press to bore a pilothole thru the middle of the dowel. This set it up to guide the holesaw pilot bit and cut a 1 3/4in hole thru the transom. This is just slightly larger than 1 1/4in PVC pipe. I used sch 20 as it will flow more water than sch40.
Tools used.
The transom is wetted out with resin and then Cabisol is mixed with the resin. The outside of the PVC is sanded with 80gt. The PVC is cut a little shorter than the hole and the epoxy/cabsol mix is filleted in the outside edges. This makes sure it's sealed.
