Thanks for the reply. No signs of failure. No flex. Will reglass that area.The wildlife boats are spec'd out and over-built to handle more than a civilian model.
Is there any signs of failure at the transom? Is the floor solid? I think i see some delamination.
That set up should haul asss! Clean it up and go boating!
Just went through this, that staining on the deck is not rust, it’s the wood tannin leaching out of the wood, that’s a wet core, and by the looks of it the cracking is well past the gelcoat, that looks like the top laminate has cracked, I would get a grinder out and start grinding the area of damage to see what the extent is. You can also drill breather holes in the deck and I bet anything water will leach out of the core. That boat looks abused, first step is checking the deck conditions and if wood is wet and not rotted then dry it and reinforce it with some glass. From the pictures the deck looks like it’s wet, I’d check below too and make sure the stingers are good.Thanks for the reply. No signs of failure. No flex. Will reglass that area.
Floor is flaking bad and wood exposed in areas. Going to have to peel up the old floor and reapply finish. Floor is still solid so I believe I can salvage the floor without a ton of work.
The transom looks skin looks like it delaminated from the core. That’s a wide and deep crack, I would be curious to see how much water intrusion made it inside the core. I have never seen that on a Parker hull, maybe the overpowered motor caused too much flex and it cracked the glass. If you do have to replace it, use coosa and epoxy with 1708 and reinforce it with knees tabbed into the deck and transom to handle the power
Not sure on the motor yet. Going to try and run it this weekend to determine if it's worth putting the money in the floor
good eyePlugs on deck not a good sign.
I agree with you assessment. Like your transom reinforcement. Looks like they created a bulkhead and knee braces to tie transom into deck. Where is the bilge access? How thick is the transom? I wonder if this is something we can do to hang more hp, if the lamination scheudle and coring the same on transom and all they added was that small area it looks like anyone can fabricate thisFrom my experience of dealing with WL Parker you can wash it and run it or take deck out. Your foam and stringers are most likely wet. Tank will go any time. You looking at 10-12 k repair. If you planning to use boat long therm it m be worth doing. Go with Coosa 100%View attachment 37602View attachment 37603
Digging into the floor now to see the extent of water damage. If the boat was a freshwater boat, do you still think the tank is still a concern? I believe the boat was primarily used in freshwater.From my experience of dealing with WL Parker you can wash it and run it or take deck out. Your foam and stringers are most likely wet. Tank will go any time. You looking at 10-12 k repair. If you planning to use boat long therm it m be worth doing. Go with Coosa 100%View attachment 37602View attachment 37603
My boat was freshwater only. I took the tank out and it still had holesDigging into the floor now to see the extent of water damage. If the boat was a freshwater boat, do you still think the tank is still a concern? I believe the boat was primarily used in freshwater.
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