Need advice on my thru hull for live well discharge

[georgevazquez]

My live well discharge on my 2000 21' se is under the water line. I just removed the old fitting and cant find a replacement that fits a transom with 2 1/2 thickness. I know you cant use any plastic below the water line, and looked in to marelon but the biggest they have is for a thickness of 1.9 " of thread. Some bronze say not for use under water line and some do, none have the thickness I need ( 2 1/2 of thread at least and a bard on the end) The pic is of the old one that I removed.
and by the way my boat sits in the salt water all year long in Islamorada Fl. I figured it was 12 years old and should replace it just to be safe. Thanks for your help.

 

[georgevazquez]

The nut has an attwood part number on it but the thru hull does not. I looked up attwood and found this. It looks identical but in the description it says " Caution: Thru-Hull connectors are designed for installation above the water line only." I need under water line.
tell me what you think, this is the link to attwood.
http://www.attwoodmarine.com/store/prod ... -thru-hull

 

[warthog5]

There is a safer way to do this.

Look at the 1 1/2in Seacock mounted on the transom. Close the seacock when you leave the boat. It's all Bronze.


http://www.classicmako.com/projects/xshark/bw32.htm

 

[georgevazquez]

But its for the live well discharge, stuff would get stuck in the ball valve area, this is the way it way originally set up with Parker.

 

[georgevazquez]

I just want to replace the thru hull fitting with an identical oem one.

 

[warthog5]

But its for the live well discharge, stuff would get stuck in the ball valve area, this is the way it way originally set up with Parker.

Well the 1 1/2 Seacock that you saw in those pix's is exactly for that.....Livewell drain. Nothing gets trapped.

Being able to close a valve eliminates the worry of a failed hose or clamp.

Fix it like the factory did or upgrade it with better safety in mind.....Your choice.

 

[Phil]

I think the plastic thru-hulls are more vulnerable when installed on the hull side forward near the bow. The sides will flex due to the pounding putting pressure on the plastic flange. As the plastic gets older, this is where they fail. There is no pounding on the transom and since it is 2 ½” thick no flexing. So if the thru-hull is near the water line, plastic should be fine (as long as you keep on top of the bilge pumps and batteries.)

edit: Just think most livewell pumps are plastic and mounted on top of the seacock with no other support (standard industry practice.) So the plastic pump is mounted way below the waterline and subject to a lot more water pressure coming from the scoop. So my guess is that the plastic pump is more vulnerable to cracking/failing than the plastic thru-hull on the transom.

 

[georgevazquez]

so I went ahead and purchased a thru hull x- long , sea cock, and hose barb. All are 1 1/2" and spent almost 300.00.
turns out the flange is 5" round and it doesn't fit in the area it has to go, even if i were to cut the flange down a bit.
Spoke to parker and they stated that they still use the same plastic fitting that my boat came with in 2000, insted of attwood they now use someone else.
I could appreciate being able to have a shut off valve but if it hasent failed in twelve years and parker still uses the same method today, im going with the same plastic fitting for 20 bucks.
I tried to do it the safer way, oh well. Thanks for all you input.

 

[BradH]

At least go with a Marelon or other glass reinforced composite fitting, not some pvc or basic nylon.

Just to give you an idea...
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/st ... OyaTazNkfs

 

[warthog5]

turns out the flange is 5" round and it doesn't fit in the area it has to go

I was afraid of that. When I did mine.....I had a clean slate, as the transom was all new with no holes in it.

So I put it where I wanted it and would fit.

 

[georgevazquez]

Thanks for your input warthog, any one need a 1 1/2 seacock with thru hull????? :shock:

 

[DTrain]

I have same fittings for my deck drain scuppers. Assuming I can actually get to them without taking a chainsaw to the deck, this is what I'm going to replace them with:

http://greatlakesskipper.com/product/5_ ... apper.html

Perko part # 377-B08-PLB, in case the URL doesn't work.

 

[Phil]

Case in point about plastic live well pumps.

http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-for ... -sink.html