New 2320 SC Parker Owners - w/Some Questions For Experienced Owners

[Swatski]

About a year into it, we finally took delivery of our new 2021 2320 w/F300. Not our first rodeo, but our first Parker and a first cabin boat.

We worked with NJ Outboards, who exceeded expectations on every level. Our sales person, Josh Webster, was outstanding. So was the service/delivery guy, Jason. They are a high volume Parker dealer on Jersey shore, remarkably well run.

We are very impressed with Parker in general and with our boat in particular; it was ordered last Fall with every option (and then some); we got lucky as it turned out to be one of the last two or three units for the model year, apparently. We are very happy.



It was a great day for delivery, water was like glass. Everything went very smoothly, no issues, hitting all the inspection points.

Quick WOT delivered 50 mph at 5,900 RPM seconds from cruise; handling is impressive with the new e-throttles.


It was a long ride home.


The kids are very excited. They immediately did some driveway boating.



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[Swatski]

Now, as for questions:

1. Looking inside deck openings/hatches (the round ones, covering fuel sender and intake) I've noticed a lot of post production debris, I have a feeling the cutouts are just covered with plastic fittings and probably not particularly well sealed (if at all); is it customary for Parker owners to pull those plastic hatch/opening frames to reseal everything (deck plywood), before re-installing it back in place?


2. Same question about cabin roof installations - is it worth it to redo /reinstall fasteners etc. to prevent water intrusion, down the line?

3. Any ideas if the anchor locker can be sealed from rain water, it is wet in there.

4. I use a lot of CRC 65-6 and Corrosion-X (mostly on trailers) which I buy by a gallon and use in a sprayer w/ a wand. I'm thinking of applying it also inside the fuel tank compartment in the 2320 - going through the two deck hatches, all those "stainless steel" clamps are usually not SS. Any experience with that?

5. Are there any tricks for better access to the bilge/battery compartment? Does anyone remove the stern bench seat for better access? Moving the batteries up front - into the cabin - is it commonly done in these boats?

6. Does the plug at the bottom of the Armstrong bracket need any attention? it is plastic, looks half-cocked in my boat, I wonder if it sticks out too much in my case? It's probably okay.


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[Andy]

Now, as for questions:

1. Looking inside deck openings/hatches (the round ones, covering fuel sender and intake) I've noticed a lot of post production debris, I have a feeling the cutouts are just covered with plastic fittings and probably not particularly well sealed (if at all); is it customary for Parker owners to pull those plastic hatch/opening frames to reseal everything (deck plywood), before re-installing it back in place?
View attachment 28366

2. Same question about cabin roof installations - is it worth it to redo /reinstall fasteners etc. to prevent water intrusion, down the line?

3. Any ideas if the anchor locker can be sealed from rain water, it is wet in there.

4. I use a lot of CRC 65-6 and Corrosion-X (mostly on trailers) which I buy by a gallon and use in a sprayer w/ a wand. I'm thinking of applying it also inside the fuel tank compartment in the 2320 - going through the two deck hatches, all those "stainless steel" clamps are usually not SS. Any experience with that?

5. Are there any tricks for better access to the bilge/battery compartment? Does anyone remove the stern bench seat for better access? Moving the batteries up front - into the cabin - is it commonly done in these boats?

6. Does the plug at the bottom of the Armstrong bracket need any attention? it is plastic, looks half-cocked in my boat, I wonder if it sticks out too much in my case? It's probably okay.
View attachment 28365

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Wow! Where to start?.... This is one of the nicest posts I have ever seen on CP, or any other site; You have one beautiful Parker, and there is nothing better than seeing how much your family is enjoying the boat!
I'll throw in my 2-cents, with hope to compare-notes with you and others on some of your questions. I'm positive you will get a LOT more folks here with good, and better advice.....
#3- The wet anchor locker; This has been one of my 'pet-peeves' with our boat. I had heard that Parker started installing drains in the anchor-locker; is that true on yours? If so, although the locker will get wet, at least it will drain the water out through the bow before it has a chance to run all through the bilges of the boat. (like on ours). As you mentioned, the water that gets into the anchor-locker is rain water; not sea-water coming over the bow. (We almost never have sea-water or even much spray over the bow). The rain water gets in through the hole under the windlass, (where the anchor line/rode is fed to the locker) and also through the large deck-hatch/lid in the deck right behind the windlass. I used low-density, rubber weather-stripping, to seal under, and on all four sides of the deck-hatch. The weather-stripping is installed around the 'lip' of the drain (that doesn't drain!); it's not installed on the lid/door itself. And, it's not possible to install it where the 'finger-lift-hole is. So for that, I made, and installed a flexible, thin, white rubber 'flap' (about 4" X 3") to cover that finger-hole (in the forward part of the hatch, where you reach in to lift the latch once the latch is opened). It prevents/slows some water-intrusion there, but not all of it.....
I keep a cover over the Lewmar windlass most of the time, and stuff part of the oversized cover as tightly as possible around the base of the windlass, and also around the chain that runs to the anchor. It stops at least some of the rain water that runs in there; but not enough. I wish Lewmar (or anyone!) offered a water-tight cover, but so far I've not found one. The cover I use is a vinyl 'bag' with a draw-string that I found in my shop (I don't remember it's original use). I just tie it tightly around the base of the windlass. (Very half-donkey, but it's all I've figured out so far). I am hoping to learn betters ways from others here on CP who chime in here.....

 

[scalywag05]

Congrats on the new boat. I have a 2019 model.
Andy above is spot on about water coming in through the deck hatch on the anchor locker. Eventually I will have a new hatch made with out the finger hole and a custom cover for the windlass will help.

The pie plates on deck should need no attention. All sealed at the factory. I open mine from time to time for inspection and clean the sealing surface and check and re-grease the o-ring.

I would not be removing any hardware on the boat at all and re-bedding anything..... she is brand new and built well. That is all sealed from the factory and should not have to be touched for many many years. My previous boat was a 2003 2120 and was as solid as could be 17 years later.

As for corrosion x on stuff on top of that tank....? I guess that won't hurt anything but not really possible through those small access hatches to get everything so I dont think its worth it. If you perform routine maintainance on the pie plates the tank should stay dry and avoid issues.

As for moving the batteries..... I dont think I will go that route as storage in these boats is always a premium. I am having a custom folding rear bench seat made as I write by Birdsall marine and will post pics once installed. I was never really fan of the factory rear seat. I feel its over engineered and not big (wide) enough anyways.

I asked the same questions about the bracket plug. They are plastic to not run the risk of damaging the threads on the bracket. I forget the correct size of the plug (maybe 3/8 but dont quote me) but grab a few spares from Home Depot. I teflon mine and snug it up before I launch and the bracket stays very dry.

Congrats again. Great Boat.

 

[Swatski]

@Andy, @scalywag05 - thanks a bunch! I appreciate insight information very much.
This site has been, in part, the reason we went with the brand; I can tell I'll be a frequent flier and (hopefully) a contributor.

Out of six or seven total this one is only the second boat we ever bought brand new. I find the fit and finish very good, mostly impressive in our boat, actually, albeit I did see questionable Parker fittings here and there when we started looking, we perused a lot of boats at boat shows and in dealer rooms. Our boat is clearly put together solid, it seems; I hope it stays that way, she is going to be put to hard use.

As an aside, there is really no comparison in overall quality with the other new vessel we purchased in 2016, a Yamaha AR240; we still have that boat and love it but she was, frankly, a study in QA/QC failures; it took me literally several years to straighten out all the crap that was wrong, released from the factory; so I've been very happy (and relieved) to had encountered a very different picture here with the 2320.

I'm probably overthinking it, just always little weary of water intrusion possibilities. It may, or may not, have anything to do with having had a couple of bad transoms in the past which needed rebuilt, lol... I'm too old for that now.

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[Andy]

@Andy, @scalywag05 - thanks a bunch! I appreciate insight information very much.
This site has been, in part, the reason we went with the brand; I can tell I'll be a frequent flier and (hopefully) a contributor.

Out of six or seven total this one is only the second boat we ever bought brand new. I find the fit and finish very good, mostly impressive in our boat, actually, albeit I did see questionable Parker fittings here and there when we started looking, we perused a lot of boats at boat shows and in dealer rooms. Our boat is clearly put together solid, it seems; I hope it stays that way, she is going to be put to hard use.

As an aside, there is really no comparison in overall quality with the other new vessel we purchased in 2016, a Yamaha AR240; we still have that boat and love it but she was, frankly, a study in QA/QC failures; it took me literally several years to straighten out all the crap that was wrong, released from the factory; so I've been very happy (and relieved) to had encountered a very different picture here with the 2320.

I'm probably overthinking it, just always little weary of water intrusion possibilities. It may, or may not, have anything to do with having had a couple of bad transoms in the past which needed rebuilt, lol... I'm too old for that now.

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I don't think you are over-thinking; I think you are being cautious, and smart! You have an awesome boat! and taking steps to keep it that way is smart! I too agree that the overall quality of the Parkers are top-notch! They are heavy (which I like), and are solid, strong boats for the rough and choppy waters around here.... As for the leaky anchor-rode lockers; Water is one of the most destructive forces on earth, and is the prime ingredient that causes rot, mold and mildew; and corroded fuel tanks. I want dry bilges, and dry anchor lockers. So far I haven't figured out how to make that happen with the Parker. Our previous two boats had bone-dry lockers, and bone-dry bilges.
We too were in the habit of buying new boats; we tried to buy a new Parker. The closest Parker Dealer at the time was horrible (a long, and funny story!). We ended up finding a good couple-year-old one in Northern Neck Va. We are not shy about traveling far, for boats. In 1983 we bought a new Albin in Cos Cob Ct. The one after that, and before the Parker, we got new, fresh out of the Annapolis Boat Show in 1986; had it for 28 years)....

 

[Andy]

Now, as for questions:

1. Looking inside deck openings/hatches (the round ones, covering fuel sender and intake) I've noticed a lot of post production debris, I have a feeling the cutouts are just covered with plastic fittings and probably not particularly well sealed (if at all); is it customary for Parker owners to pull those plastic hatch/opening frames to reseal everything (deck plywood), before re-installing it back in place?
View attachment 28366

2. Same question about cabin roof installations - is it worth it to redo /reinstall fasteners etc. to prevent water intrusion, down the line?

3. Any ideas if the anchor locker can be sealed from rain water, it is wet in there.

4. I use a lot of CRC 65-6 and Corrosion-X (mostly on trailers) which I buy by a gallon and use in a sprayer w/ a wand. I'm thinking of applying it also inside the fuel tank compartment in the 2320 - going through the two deck hatches, all those "stainless steel" clamps are usually not SS. Any experience with that?

5. Are there any tricks for better access to the bilge/battery compartment? Does anyone remove the stern bench seat for better access? Moving the batteries up front - into the cabin - is it commonly done in these boats?

6. Does the plug at the bottom of the Armstrong bracket need any attention? it is plastic, looks half-cocked in my boat, I wonder if it sticks out too much in my case? It's probably okay.
View attachment 28365

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Hi Swatski, It appears that you have what's called the 'West-Coast' bow rail. (it looks taller?) If so, is it now standard on the Parkers? or was it an 'option'/ extra $$ ? when you bought the boat.
The bow rail on ours is too low; I'd almost call it dangerous, as it hits about right at the knee; a trip-hazard. Our last bow rail was waist-high; very safe. I'd be happier with one that is at least mid-thigh high.

 

[Swatski]

Hi Swatski, It appears that you have what's called the 'West-Coast' bow rail. (it looks taller?) If so, is it now standard on the Parkers? or was it an 'option'/ extra $$ ? when you bought then boat.
The bow rail on ours is too low; I'd almost call it dangerous, as it hits about right at the knee; a trip-hazard. Our last bow rail was waist-high; very safe. I'd be happier with one that is at least mid-thigh high.

Yes, it is the west coast style, option ($$$).
So is the white rub rail, and about 30 other things.
We have been going over the boat, trying to "baseline" everything. I spent the day sorting out the trailer and waxing (rejex-ing) the hull, we also use copious amounts of 303 on the inside.


I double 5200-ed a bunch of dealer installed add-ons, just in case, and doubled up on the bracket seal, just in case. It is so much easier to do with a brand new boat.




We sorted out and dried out the anchor scope/windlass, the factory provides a pretty generous ~200ft of anchor line. Not bad.


The anchor locker is still a mystery - it does drain into the main bilge...



I'll need to figure it out, how to prevent rain water intrusion. Like you suggested, I'll start with some kind of seal on the anchor hatch.


I love the access to helm electronics! It's fantastic!


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[Swatski]

We like the bimini, another option from the factory. It comes off easily for trips when not needed, but will be great for sandbar trips.


I'm becoming more and more impressed with the fit and finish.
They even sealed the cutout inside armstrong bracket:



I couldn't help myself and corrosion-x-ed all clamps and exposed wiring connectors I could find, like this one:

I'll be using a long wand to spray crc656 everywhere tomorrow, including over the entire fuel tank.
There is moisture in that large compartment there, probably due to water coming down the anchor locker.

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[Bjorn240]

Gorgeous boat. How did the Land Cruiser do towing her? A 2120 or 2320 is my next (additional) boat but I’ve been wondering if I need to upgrade my LX570 first. Thanks!

 

[Andy]

Now, as for questions:

1. Looking inside deck openings/hatches (the round ones, covering fuel sender and intake) I've noticed a lot of post production debris, I have a feeling the cutouts are just covered with plastic fittings and probably not particularly well sealed (if at all); is it customary for Parker owners to pull those plastic hatch/opening frames to reseal everything (deck plywood), before re-installing it back in place?
View attachment 28366

2. Same question about cabin roof installations - is it worth it to redo /reinstall fasteners etc. to prevent water intrusion, down the line?

3. Any ideas if the anchor locker can be sealed from rain water, it is wet in there.

4. I use a lot of CRC 65-6 and Corrosion-X (mostly on trailers) which I buy by a gallon and use in a sprayer w/ a wand. I'm thinking of applying it also inside the fuel tank compartment in the 2320 - going through the two deck hatches, all those "stainless steel" clamps are usually not SS. Any experience with that?

5. Are there any tricks for better access to the bilge/battery compartment? Does anyone remove the stern bench seat for better access? Moving the batteries up front - into the cabin - is it commonly done in these boats?

6. Does the plug at the bottom of the Armstrong bracket need any attention? it is plastic, looks half-cocked in my boat, I wonder if it sticks out too much in my case? It's probably okay.
View attachment 28365

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On #4).... There does exist all S/S, s/s hose clamps, but a lot of 'bargain-store' varieties have S/S 'bands' and non-S/S worm-screws. (I believe it was Warthog who had a recent post, showing good hose clamps). The ones on our Parker have no signs of rust or corrosion but I keep most metals coated in Fluid-Film (I will also try the corrosion-block product that you mentioned in your last post)...
And, you got my curiosity up; I'll give the hose-clamps a 'magnet-test'.

 

[Andy]

Yes, it is the west coast style, option ($$$).
So is the white rub rail, and about 30 other things.
We have been going over the boat, trying to "baseline" everything. I spent the day sorting out the trailer and waxing (rejex-ing) the hull, we also use copious amounts of 303 on the inside.
View attachment 28375

I double 5200-ed a bunch of dealer installed add-ons, just in case, and doubled up on the bracket seal, just in case. It is so much easier to do with a brand new boat.
View attachment 28376
View attachment 28377
View attachment 28378

We sorted out and dried out the anchor scope/windlass, the factory provides a pretty generous ~200ft of anchor line. Not bad.
View attachment 28379

The anchor locker is still a mystery - it does drain into the main bilge...
View attachment 28380
View attachment 28382
View attachment 28383
I'll need to figure it out, how to prevent rain water intrusion. Like you suggested, I'll start with some kind of seal on the anchor hatch.
View attachment 28381

I love the access to helm electronics! It's fantastic!
View attachment 28384

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You have much better access, as you showed here. Great pictures by the way!

 

[Kurt]

For Question 5, the aft bench seat base is quickly and easily removed by raising either the port or starboard side and pulling it out of the track. Nice to keep out on a bloody fishing day too.

 

[Swatski]

For Question 5, the aft bench seat base is quickly and easily removed by raising either the port or starboard side and pulling it out of the track. Nice to keep out on a bloody fishing day too.

That is GOLD. I could not figure that out to save my life, lol.
I did figure the STRBD side lock (white-ish plastic bar with a finger loop), but that was about it. Glad I didn't uninstall the bench, as I was about to! lol. I still don't see it, how to take it apart without undoing the bolts - I need to check it out.


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[Swatski]

Gorgeous boat. How did the Land Cruiser do towing her? A 2120 or 2320 is my next (additional) boat but I’ve been wondering if I need to upgrade my LX570 first. Thanks!

Thank you sir. You should have no trouble towing a 2320, in general; however, a lot depends on the trailer, too, and how it is set up. We got the Load Rite set up perfectly by the dealer (they sell a ton of Parkers and I guess they have it figured out - what works, where to position the bow roller post for best tongue weight etc. etc.).

One thing I would say, never towing a cabin boat before as we only have had ski/wake boats, that Parker cabin really buffets air, hard; for me that would limit tow speeds, under 70 or so, with my short-ish Landy. Power is more than adequate. I don't have the LX570 adjustable height suspension which is supposed to be the cat's meow but I do have rear coil air bags which I keep inflated at approximately 25psi for this kind of towing - it was a smooth, level ride. The surge brakes work, this trailer has them on both axles (with torsion suspension - nice); it could use EOH brakes, no doubt.


Our hundred mile tow from the dealer was mostly uneventful, except one of the hubs was getting hot - apparently it did not have a lot of grease (I did check the hubs before taking off - autoflex/knott hub looked okay must have been either under-packed or dried out, or whatever). I pumped a bunch of fresh grease but then the zerk fitting came off.
It was a PIA to press it back but we figured it out and got home fine; nothing was damaged, but I need to replace and service a few things - my lubrication/anti-corrosion program - but it's a good trailer.



It would be more appropriate for LC, not Parker, discussion but I will say this: adding a front tow bar is one of the best trailering mods - for maneuvering in tight quarters. Moving trailers like tonka toys, lol, feels like operating a forklift, makes it so easy in my tight back yard driveway!




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[Swatski]

For Question 5, the aft bench seat base is quickly and easily removed by raising either the port or starboard side and pulling it out of the track. Nice to keep out on a bloody fishing day too.

Thank you! Figured it out, that is very handy.
I'm surprised the dealer didn't mention it, but I don't think they install a lot of those around here, as they cater to mostly hard core fishing crowd.

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[Bjorn240]

Thanks for the reply. That front hitch mount does seem cool. Thanks also for the recommendation on the dealer. I’m up in NY so not far for me.

 

[Mpellet]

This will be season SIXTEEN for me and my Parker 2520, so I’ll leave the new boat questions and answers to those more current but couldn’t resist commenting on how sweet the new boat looks. I am a curmudgeon in general and don’t particularly like hull colors that aren’t some shade of white but I could make an exception for that grey, looks very sharp.

Best of luck........

 

[Swatski]

This will be season SIXTEEN for me and my Parker 2520, so I’ll leave the new boat questions and answers to those more current but couldn’t resist commenting on how sweet the new boat looks. I am a curmudgeon in general and don’t particularly like hull colors that aren’t some shade of white but I could make an exception for that grey, looks very sharp.

Best of luck........

Thank you Sir! we feel we really lucked out with this boat. Knock on wood, pretty awesome first impressions all around.

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[Swatski]

Thanks for the reply. That front hitch mount does seem cool. Thanks also for the recommendation on the dealer. I’m up in NY so not far for me.

We interacted with all Parker dealers in the region including the one in LI.
I would go with the NJ Outboards, they are no nonsense, cater mostly to regular folk. Their service seem very good based on the work done on our boat so far. Josh Webster was our sales person, very responsive and a straight shooter. [email protected], 215-962-7893 - best to text or email. It's going to be slim picking right now but I'm sure things will improve.

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