New through hull pickup on 2520xld

[chas650r]

My 2012 2520xld has never had a through hull for bait tank installed in the rear bilge area. What parts and what location work well for you guys? I am looking for recommendations specifically for a my model with a single outboard mounted on the standard bracket. I did a search and found some info but want to be sure I don't induce cavitation ect . I am assuming I want a clamshell pickup ? All thoughts appreciated.

 

[pelagic2530]

My 2012 2520xld has never had a through hull for bait tank installed in the rear bilge area. What parts and what location work well for you guys? I am looking for recommendations specifically for a my model with a single outboard mounted on the standard bracket. I did a search and found some info but want to be sure I don't induce cavitation ect . I am assuming I want a clamshell pickup ? All thoughts appreciated.

Generally speaking pickups are located on the port side, leaving the stbd side for transducers. However, if you already have a transducer installed, you’ll need to locate the pickup on the opposite side. Closer to the stern is better, as the turbulence/aeration from the fitting spreads out in a vee shape from the fitting, creating a larger area of disturbance at the stern the further forward the fitting is located.

You’ll need a backing plate fiberglassed to the inside of the hull to mount the seacock to. I believe Groco makes one for their products, or you can make your own if you’re savvy with epoxy. Your best bet is to buy like components from the same manufacturer, to ensure the thread types line up. You may also have to cut the length of the threaded tube from the pickup fitting, in order for the seacock fitting to sit flush against the backing plate.

Here’s a write-up of my install. It’s a smaller unit that the one you’ll likely install, but the process is pretty much the same: 1997 1700 Overhaul Project

**Edited to correct port/stbd pickup location**

 

[chas650r]

thanks, will do.

 

[chas650r]

2530 , nice work in your thread there. Do you think bolts up from under the backing plate epoxied in as studs would work for the seacock? also what is the brand on the bilge hatch , and does it really seal ? I sure dont like the oem deck hatch on my boat but have not found anything better in plastic.

thanks for the help

 

[warthog5]

Generally speaking pickups are located on the stbd side, leaving the port side for transducers.

Which is Exactly opposite of the install instructions for transom mount X-ducer.

Install the scoop on the Port side

A scoop, Seacock, pump.......I use Rule dual port pumps. Top port for livewell.....Bottom port for washdown pump supply....Yes you can run both pumps at the same time.

 

[pelagic2530]

Which is Exactly opposite of the install instructions for transom mount X-ducer.

Install the scoop on the Port side

A scoop, Seacock, pump.......I use Rule dual port pumps. Top port for livewell.....Bottom port for washdown pump supply....Yes you can run both pumps at the same time.

Which instructions are those? I’ve never seen any that specify which side of the boat the transducer needs to be on. As long as it’s installed at the correct alignment to the hull and is level, the side of the boat it’s on is completely irrelevant as long as there are no turbulence-inducing protrusions near it.

That said… I did mix the two up in my first comment; I’ve edited it for clarity. Generally speaking Warthog is correct, convention says transducers to stbd, pickups to port. But I’ve seen it work just fine both ways. The important part is making sure they’re on opposite sides. If you’ve already got one of the two mounted, put the other on the opposite side.

 

[pelagic2530]

2530 , nice work in your thread there. Do you think bolts up from under the backing plate epoxied in as studs would work for the seacock? also what is the brand on the bilge hatch , and does it really seal ? I sure dont like the oem deck hatch on my boat but have not found anything better in plastic.

thanks for the help

Possibly, although encapsulating SS fasteners may lead to them corroding if there is even a little water intrusion. And if that ever happens, or the fasteners get screwed up, replacing them will be a major issue. If I had to do it again I’d use lag bolts.

The hatch is the best I’ve used so far, but it’s not totally watertight. It keeps rainwater and hose spray out entirely, but if there’s standing water on the deck above the level of the lip it will leak a little. The big thing is that the seam of the hatch is covered, so water spraying onto it will roll off onto the deck and out the scuppers rather than collecting in the seam and leaking past the gasket.

 

[chas650r]

was the hatch brand listed in the build? did I miss it?

 

[pelagic2530]

was the hatch brand listed in the build? did I miss it?

I think I forgot to list it! It’s a Tempress Cam Hatch. They have a variety of sizes on their site: Access Cam Boat Hatches – Multiple Sizes – Store – TEMPRESS

 

[chas650r]

I think I forgot to list it! It’s a Tempress Cam Hatch. They have a variety of sizes on their site: Access Cam Boat Hatches – Multiple Sizes – Store – TEMPRESS

thanks!

 

[warthog5]

Which instructions are those? I’ve never seen any that specify which side of the boat the transducer needs to be on.

Airmars instructions......

1 example: Look at Fig 2

https://airmar.com/uploads/InstallGuide/17-247-03.pdf

 

[pelagic2530]

Airmars instructions......

1 example: Look at Fig 2

https://airmar.com/uploads/InstallGuide/17-247-03.pdf

Interesting. They seem to be the only ones; none of the other MFRs have a similar stipulation. I’d be interested to hear why they suggest that.

Wonder if that effects thru-hull transducers as well… in any event it’s probably best practice, but I’ve seen plenty of them mounted on the opposite side that worked just fine

 

[chas650r]

So from the pics here I see a groco valve that I believe is their chrome plated brass ball model and a perko valve that I cannot seem to find info on the ball material , but by the cost I would guess stainless . Groco makes the big $ stainless ball model also. So the question is , in this fairly permanent install is the chrome plated model ok ?? what is the consensus ? I don't really like anything chrome in salt water but........

 

[warthog5]

Interesting. They seem to be the only ones; none of the other MFRs have a similar stipulation. I’d be interested to hear why they suggest that.

You know Airmar makes 95% of all transducers for all the manufactures...Right? It's mainly for transom mounted units...... It's because of the way the prop spins and being faily close to a transom mounted X-Ducer.

 

[pelagic2530]

So from the pics here I see a groco valve that I believe is their chrome plated brass ball model and a perko valve that I cannot seem to find info on the ball material , but by the cost I would guess stainless . Groco makes the big $ stainless ball model also. So the question is , in this fairly permanent install is the chrome plated model ok ?? what is the consensus ? I don't really like anything chrome in salt water but........

Can’t comment from a scientific standpoint, but Groco is a pretty reputable manufacturer. I’d be inclined to trust any product they’re putting on the market to be free from design issues. I can tell you that I’ve had no issues with mine, but it also lives on a trailer.

 

[warthog5]

Groco