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Fred S

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I am currently ordering a 2510 XLD. Would like some help on engine choices. Fish the Chesapeake Bay only. Single 300 vs twin 150's or 200's. I currently own a Robalo R245 that is powered by a single 300 and it is fine. 41 mph and that's fast enough for me. I prefer a single because to the maintenance but just want to make sure it is enough . Any help would be appreciated.
 
I am currently ordering a 2510 XLD. Would like some help on engine choices. Fish the Chesapeake Bay only. Single 300 vs twin 150's or 200's. I currently own a Robalo R245 that is powered by a single 300 and it is fine. 41 mph and that's fast enough for me. I prefer a single because to the maintenance but just want to make sure it is enough . Any help would be appreciated.
Hi Fred S. Welcome to ClassicParker! You will likely hear good reasons to support all three of the options you mentioned. Here's my 2-Cents. We have a 2013/2014 2520 XLD with a single 2014 Yamaha 300. It has topped out at 44 mph with low gear/weight. Its 'sweet-spot' is cruising between 30-32 mph, getting 2.0- 2.2 mpg. (Ave. 4200-4300 rpm)... I hold 200 gallons of gas. (does not have that EPA contraption). 14 gallons of fresh water. Two coolers and average extra gear. Usually one-three people onboard. For us, the 300 has been adequate, and I prefer to maintain only one engine. Installing two 150's adds weight and there is no more power; if you want twins, go with twin 200's, but there's still a diminishing 'rate-of-return' with the extra weight of the second engine. The argument for the 'safety' factor of two engines is not one I totally disagree with, but countless commercial offshore boats have one, well-maintained engine... Many (most?) 'engine' problems are fuel-related; both engines draw from the same fuel tank. If the fuel is bad, it's bad for both engines. With that said, I do understand the psychological comfort of having a 'get-home' engine if running far offshore, as long as a problem is not fuel-related...
 
Thank you Andy. I am always in the bay so the safety factor is not a concern. I have Sea Tow for the other engine to get me home. The 2510 is 300lbs lighter so if I can get those kind of numbers you have, that's perfect. My current 300 has the same exact sweet spot and the boat weighs about the same. Robalo's are always heavy but is has a 22 degree dead-rise and rides great. I'm hoping I am not giving up much on the ride but the added fishing room and wider beam is appealing to me. I keep it on a lift so I don't have any isses with bottom fouling to slow me down.
 
Thank you Andy. I am always in the bay so the safety factor is not a concern. I have Sea Tow for the other engine to get me home. The 2510 is 300lbs lighter so if I can get those kind of numbers you have, that's perfect. My current 300 has the same exact sweet spot and the boat weighs about the same. Robalo's are always heavy but is has a 22 degree dead-rise and rides great. I'm hoping I am not giving up much on the ride but the added fishing room and wider beam is appealing to me. I keep it on a lift so I don't have any isses with bottom fouling to slow me down.

Sounds like your best bet for personal use is going to be the single 300. If you're concerned about resale, the twin engines will likely make the boat more marketable to a wider audience who would want the option of venturing offshore. Most people like the security of two engines despite the very valid points raised by Andy as to their necessity. But, unless you're the type that tends to get a new boat every couple of years, that's probably not a sufficient reason to take on the extra expense of purchasing and maintaining an additional engine.
 
Sounds like your best bet for personal use is going to be the single 300. If you're concerned about resale, the twin engines will likely make the boat more marketable to a wider audience who would want the option of venturing offshore. Most people like the security of two engines despite the very valid points raised by Andy as to their necessity. But, unless you're the type that tends to get a new boat every couple of years, that's probably not a sufficient reason to take on the extra expense of purchasing and maintaining an additional engine.
Thank you. My dealer said most of the 2510 and 2520's he sells are with single 300.
 
In your area I can see why the dealer volume would be mostly singles. And for your application it's likely the best choice. Dealers closer to the coast are likely to see a larger volume of boats with twins for guys that are setting up to use them offshore.
 
Thank you Andy. I am always in the bay so the safety factor is not a concern. I have Sea Tow for the other engine to get me home. The 2510 is 300lbs lighter so if I can get those kind of numbers you have, that's perfect. My current 300 has the same exact sweet spot and the boat weighs about the same. Robalo's are always heavy but is has a 22 degree dead-rise and rides great. I'm hoping I am not giving up much on the ride but the added fishing room and wider beam is appealing to me. I keep it on a lift so I don't have any isses with bottom fouling to slow me down.
Hi Fred S, I should have added (to clarify the performance numbers mentioned above), our boat is bottom painted. Some will say that makes it a slower boat. Could be? but our performance numbers are as good or better than what I have seen posted on CP, bottom-painted or not; wind, current, wave-type/height, boat-load etc. are more of a performance factor than the bottom paint; our past 4 boats (42+ years) have all been bottom painted. I did not have a usable trailer when I got the Parker (Northern Neck VA). Knowing it would be in the water for months waiting to get the boat-lift installed, bottom-painting was necessary. I don't like the extra maintenance of bottom-paint, but the boat can sometimes be in the water 5-10 days at a time...
 
Hi Fred S, I should have added (to clarify the performance numbers mentioned above), our boat is bottom painted. Some will say that makes it a slower boat. Could be? but our performance numbers are as good or better than what I have seen posted on CP, bottom-painted or not; wind, current, wave-type/height, boat-load etc. are more of a performance factor than the bottom paint; our past 4 boats (42+ years) have all been bottom painted. I did not have a usable trailer when I got the Parker (Northern Neck VA). Knowing it would be in the water for months waiting to get the boat-lift installed, bottom-painting was necessary. I don't like the extra maintenance of bottom-paint, but the boat can sometimes be in the water 5-10 days at a time...
Thanks. Next question. Factory electronics or do it after delivery. Garmin or different brand?
 
Thanks. Next question. Factory electronics or do it after delivery. Garmin or different brand?
I am a big Garmin fan! Always have been. (I'm sure others will be 'big fans' of other brands). I've been using Garmin electronics for decades; love them. If you are 'handy' and/or can follow Warthogs advice (he is an electronics genius here on CP) and if you can do it yourself, then I say, 'do it yourself', or have others do it to your, ands Warthogs specs after delivery'... With that said, I would not have an issue with a 'factory-install'.
 
Thanks. Next question. Factory electronics or do it after delivery. Garmin or different brand?
Almost certainly the answer is do it after delivery. Go to a boat show, electronics dealer, West Marine, anywhere that you can get your hands on some of the units themselves. Play around with them, take a look at the features available, and pick and choose the package you want. Even if you decide on Garmin, you'll likely be better off deciding on your own exactly which units you want rather than getting shoehorned into the factory options. If you don't feel like doing the install yourself, you may be able to work with your dealer to install the package of your choice, that way you're good to go right out of the gate.

Personally, I'm a Simrad guy, primarily because my pockets aren't deep enough for Furuno.
 
How is the reverse thrust with the single 300 outboard on a 2520?
The reverse thrust on our 2520/300 Yamaha is 'marginal' at best; maybe even, 'exceptionally mediocre'! just like most every single-outboard boat I've been on. The best reverse thrust I've experienced was our last boat with a Ford-Lehman SP 135, 26 X 26 'squared' prop with an 3:1 Borg Warner transmission. I could back a grounded coal barge off of a mud-flat with that set up. (Not really; just a slight exaggeration! ☺).
 
Honestly I would recommend twin 150s or twin 200s. On paper is one thing, but twins really work well in so many situations. Up here only the MV hulls come rigged with a single.
 
Hi Fred S. Welcome to ClassicParker! You will likely hear good reasons to support all three of the options you mentioned. Here's my 2-Cents. We have a 2013/2014 2520 XLD with a single 2014 Yamaha 300. It has topped out at 44 mph with low gear/weight. Its 'sweet-spot' is cruising between 30-32 mph, getting 2.0- 2.2 mpg. (Ave. 4200-4300 rpm)... I hold 200 gallons of gas. (does not have that EPA contraption). 14 gallons of fresh water. Two coolers and average extra gear. Usually one-three people onboard. For us, the 300 has been adequate, and I prefer to maintain only one engine. Installing two 150's adds weight and there is no more power; if you want twins, go with twin 200's, but there's still a diminishing 'rate-of-return' with the extra weight of the second engine. The argument for the 'safety' factor of two engines is not one I totally disagree with, but countless commercial offshore boats have one, well-maintained engine... Many (most?) 'engine' problems are fuel-related; both engines draw from the same fuel tank. If the fuel is bad, it's bad for both engines. With that said, I do understand the psychological comfort of having a 'get-home' engine if running far offshore, as long as a problem is not fuel-related...

Is your 2520 XLD a mod-V or deep-V? 2.0-2.2mpg seems very very good. That's the mpg I get on my 2310 with a single 250.
 
Is your 2520 XLD a mod-V or deep-V? 2.0-2.2mpg seems very very good. That's the mpg I get on my 2310 with a single 250.
The 2520 XLD is the 'Deep-V'. If interested, I have videos posted on Youtube that show the performance numbers . (816) Parker 2520 XLD, Running 31-34 MPH Through Choppy Seas - YouTube
I average 2.0-2.2 mpg, most all the time; in fact I adjust the RPM and speed for different 'sea-states' to maintain the 2.0-2.2 mpg. I have a different video posted, running 34 mph where the mpg drops to 1.8-1.9 mpg. I was running into a 'sloppy' sea....
 
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I routinely get 2.1 to 2.2 with my 2520 XLD and twin 200's running around 3600 to 3800 rpms and making around 23 knots.

Cap'n Dan
Hi Capt Dan, I like the the twin-200's set up... Your 23 knots is about 26.5 mph (conversion; knots X 1.15)... What do you consider your 'sweet-spot', meaning best speed/rpm/mpg? I'm usually running 4200-4300 rpm/30-32 mph, and 2.0-2.2 mpg....
 
I would say that is my sweet spot - 3600 - 3800 rpms and 23 - 24 knots. Fuel economy starts dropping off from there, plus I just don't wanna run that fast for the most part.

Cap'n Dan
 
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