Number of Batteries

[rangerdog]

Motor (single or twin OB) dependent, newer V6 OBs require more cranking amps at the computers won't fire if the e-system can deliver > 10 maybe 11-volts while cranking. Less the E-Techs by Bombardier which would fire on its own in 1/2 a revolution of the flywheel (due to enhanved magneto technology) provided one could spin the flywheel with a rope that is - DOH!

But regardless, a BEP battery power mgt cluster will resolve all your issues. It even allows 3 batts for 2 motors, combining where needed, only charging batteries where needed. They are de bomb! Any will be my next upgrade someday.

After studying I just ordered one from iboat for $149. A lot cheaper than when I was looking for an automatic switch before. You basically just replace your 1/2/Both switch with it.

 

[Flaff]

Brent,
This is exactly the way I understand it also. By them wiring the "auxillary" charging wire to one of the batteries confuses me and makes me think it's redundant. I WAS planning on using the auxillary wire to charge a 3rd battery as you said until I found it already wired.

m2cw
The alternator has 2 charging outputs.
I dont know how your switch is wired
but here is an example of 2 batteries, one engine, one charging circuit setup
The + from battery 1 goes to + side of Switch position #1
The + from battery 2 goes to + side of Switch position # 2
Use SP #1, engine will use power and charge battery #1 only and battery #2 is not used or charged (isolated)
Use SP#2, engine will use power from battery #2 only and battery #1 is not used or being charged (isolated)
Thus the switch position in this case controls the batteries being used

For switch postion ALL (or 1+2), power is drawn from both battery 1 and 2 and the charging circuit will charge both batteries b/c it see both batteries are one battery or bank

Without seeing your setup, the primary charging circuit should charge the battery 1 and 2, depending on the switch position, and the secondary cc could be used for a third bank but this will a high load on the alternator so you will need to determine if it can support all batteries when they are being used and discharging and the charging times

 

[Brent]

I would ask them to disconnect the 2nd CC from the second battery and you will use the switch manually, carefully of course (do not turn off when engine is running or protect it with a diode package from the switch vendor) to charge the batteries. For the third bank, you have options: add a new switch, not have a switch or buy the one mentioned by Dale
However, none of this addresses the charging load on the alternator.
Output is dependent on the engine rpm range (higher range will have higher current ouptut as rule of thumb) and I would verify that the alternator is capable to supply current over period without damaging it and lowing its operational life ( ask Dale, other CPs, or Andy at SIM ) bc charging batteries take time and current, and you want to avoid overheating them

good luck
Please post an update

 

[Porkchunker]

Twin motors, two batteries, each with their own 1--2--both--off switch.

I replaced the OEM group 27 lead-acid batteries for group 31 dual-purpose cranking and deep-cycle. Very few problems since upgrading the size.

This summer, I may add a third battery and an isolator. Third battery would be for the electronics, lights, and windlass, keeping the two main batteries for cranking the engines.

BTW, the F-115 does NOT have the alternate charging wire coming from the alternator. I'll have to use an isolator to charge the 3rd (electronics) battery.

Dave

aka

 

[RandMadeRods]

I guess depending the boat it could be tight. I added the additional two next to the two stock batteries and they fit fine (2520 XLD).

 

[gundog]

You have the same problem I have Daniel.

No room but for two 24's in my 2003 2320. And that is a tight squeze.

Looks like later model Parkers have a separate compartment aft in the floor of the cockpit that has the room for larger batteries.

 

[SemperFly]

After getting tired of electronics dropout on my 23SE CC and the factory installed two-battery system, I had a Blue Sea ACR/DCP switch installed to create two banks, one for the house electronics and one for the cranking and other DC (pumps/trim tabs/deck lights) side. Some additional customiziations:

-I actually kept the Parker two-battery architecture with the 1-2-Both switch in place. That became one full bank dedicated to cranking/heavy DC applications. So there are three batteries altogether. A one-battery bank dedicated to helm electronics, and the two-battery bank for cranking/other DC. See attached sketch (charge wiring not shown)

-All batteries are Group 31 AGMs.

-I keep the 1-2-Both switch set to either 1 or 2. That way, there is one big fat fully charged battery in full reserve at all times for emergency cranking power if I need it (I've never needed it.....yet). The spare cranking battery gives you the freedom if you need it to combine the other batteries for, say, extra livewell juice when you are running pumps and other loads for many hours without engine on.

-I added a ProTEch 1230i shore charger to system. That wimpy alternator in my single Yamaha 225 just wasn't enough to fully recharge the 3 AGM 31s underway, especially after livelining trips involving multiple hours of pump usage.

-I moved all batteries to the console. A huge benefit of this improved battery management system isn't just the added peace of mind. It turns out that moving heavy batteries from the stern and putting them amidships significantly improved the ride of my 23SE. Much less pounding now and boat simply rides better with 210 lbs. (yes, AGMs are pretty heavy) worth of batteries all in the console.

I designed the overall system but had Schrader Yachts do all installation and relocation. Broken down, I think the work is actually reasonably straightforward but decided against playing electrician given that I've often got kids on boat or else am taking it farther offshore than a 23SE should really go....in other words, I needed all of this to work perfectly from the get-go. Didn't want to post until I had a full season of trouble-free operation and it's been great for 200 hrs now.

John

 

[SemperFly]

Sorry about that FishFactory, I accidentally left on a second slide from a much earlier design hence the confusion. Deleted that and reposted. When I'm back at boat next week will take photographs showing major connections including Yamaha starter/alternator cable and will list wire gauges used. Storage lost actually not that bad, but I also have a 128 qt igloo cooler up front coffin-box style with tie downs for some bulky items that would otherwise go into console.