Original "Boat Leveler" trim tab sticking/slow

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SBH2OMan

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Location
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I noticed recently that I just couldn't seem to get enough "tab" on a recent run home from our islands. The next day I operated them on the trailer and to my surprise, I found two things:

1) They operate MUCH more slowly than I thought, and

2) The port side tab (marked "starboard" on switch) runs at about 1/2 the speed of the starboard side tab, and sometimes sticks in the fully retracted position.

Before I start blindly poking around and figuring out how this system works, does anyone have suggestions where to look first? Are there maintenance items on this system? (e.g. replacing oil, cleaning & lubing parts, etc)

Thanks in advance
 
First thing to check is the level of the fluid in the hydraulic power unit (HPU).
It could simply be that your HPU needs to be topped off.

Having said that, when I bought my boat it was wearing a set of Boat Levelers that were leaking fluid into the bilge, and did not work properly.
After some research, I replaced the 12x12 Boat Levelers with a new set of 24x9 Bennett tabs.
Best money I ever spent.

Check the fluid first, but if it's time for replacement, consider replacing with a bigger set of tabs.
 
Thanks Kevin. It looks like the fluid is about 1/2" below the rubber "nipple" that juts out the front (is that the filler?) What is the normal level? (and what kind of fluid does it use - ATF/Power Steering fluid?)

There is really nothing useful on their web site!

Oh, and I'd LOVE to get better trim tabs, but the next $1,000 is going towards an anchor windlass. And the next $1,000 after that, probably. Then the NEXT $1,000 is earmarked for a custom swim step that can actually be used for diving.. I just need these tabs to last that long.... :D
 
I wish I could help you Brent, but I replaced that system 8 years ago and I don't have any information on it.

When I bought the boat, the HPU was leaking and the bilge pump wasn't working, so there was about 20 gallons of water and several quarts of ATF floating in the bilge.
It was a huge mess!

When I finally cleaned out the bilge, I discovered two unopened quarts of ATF and one partial quart squirreled away down there.
Looking at the mess left behind, I think the HPU had been leaking for quite some time. :(

Fortunately for me, Simple Green was my friend (several gallons worth). :)
 
I had Leveler also. The pump was in my bilge for 9 years. Inside the housing there are 2 solenoid valves that control both tabs. When they are slow to react or stuck they need to be cleaned. When I removed the pump and inspected the valves and the guts of the pump I found that it was not worth repairing. They were toast.

FWIW
I replaced the Leveler pump, harness and rocker switch with a Bennett pump, harness and rocker switch. About $350 in 2010. Bennett will walk you through the conversion. It is simple.
I did not replace the Leveler Cylinders, hoses or Leveler tabs. When they fail I will replace with Bennett and never look back.

To be clear I have a Bennett pump, Bennett harness and Bennett rocker switch
Connected to
Leveler hoses, Leveler Cylinders and Leveler trim tabs

Works great
 
Very useful tip. Thank you, Bill!

After I finish cthe current project, pulling the pump and checking those valves is my next project.

I will say that the folks at Insta-trim were very friendly and helpful when I called.
 
Brent I have the leveler tabs on my 2320, i have all the original paper work and manuals, so if you have any questions let me know, that rubber tube you are referring to is the fill and if you look a little below that there is a line that says add and then another above that that says full. Like I said if you need any other info I can scan and email you pages from the manual if needed
 
The Boat Leveler system is pretty easy to troubleshoot. I put together this troubleshooting based on how the syetm works.

Here is he wiring for Boat Leveler.

green=Port Valve
white= Starboard Valve
red=Motor Forward (pump pressure)
yellow= Motor Reverse (pump retract)
black on HPU=Ground
red on Helm=Control Positive

Here is how you can test it.

Remove the wires from the helm control and touch together as follows:

Operation=Reaction
(+), Red, Green=Port trim tab down
(+), Red, White=Starboard trim tab down
(+), Red, Green, White=both trim tabs down
(+), Yellow, Green=Port trim tab up
(+), Yellow, White=Starboard trim tab up
(+), Yellow, White, Green=both trim tabs up

If the trim tabs function correctly for each wire grouping then the switch is at fault. Also note that any loose or missing screws on the back of the switch (whether a wire is connected there or not) can cause the pump to malfunction.

This test may also be done right at the pump by using a hot lead. There is usually a connector to the wire harness within a foot or so of the pump. You want to check this connection for corrosion. You may wish to cut the connector off on the pump side and try the test on bare wires.

If you suspect corrosion on the wire connector near the pump, cut it out, test as above and reconnect using butt splices.

Make sure to check both ends of the black ground wire at the pump for corrosion.

I hope this is helpful,

Tom McGow
Bennett Marine
 
From their web site
To all Insta-Trim and Bennett Trim Tab owners
Send us your old rocker switches no matter what condition and in return you can buy our new Waterproof switches for $75.00 plus shipping.
(normal retail price $127.50)

Main page shows the pictorial parts guide
http://www.insta-trim.com/main.html

Parts diagram
http://www.insta-trim.com/ppics.html

Installation guide
http://www.insta-trim.com/install.html

Bleeding the pump and add fluid
After complete installation, work tabs up and down a few times, then while in the UP position, remove filler-plug located on front of oil reservoir , allow trapped air to escape, insert plug. If unit should ever need refilling use Insta-Trim Biodegradable oil or any type of automatic transmission fluid.

The manual is not online. I ordered one and will scan it.
or email Donna at [email protected]]
for a hard copy

Best
 
Thanks for posting that, Brent. Unfortunately it looks like the attachments come out too small to read. Is there a "files" section here on CP where the full sized files can be posted for download?

Also, two other trouble-shooting tips I learned talking to the folks at Insta-Trim/Boat Leveler:

1. When operating correctly, it should take about 8 seconds to fully deploy a tab (slightly longer for two of them)

2. You can test for a bad/stuck piston assembly by simply pushing down on them when they are fully retracted. They should freely move to their max extension then snap back fairly crisply.

Now the big challenge is just getting access to the pump/motor assembly inside this *#$^* transom box! :)
 
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