New to me 2013 Parker 1801 is stored on a lift. Can't get to the external drain plug to remove. Would like to go to an internal drain plug if possible. Thinking of one of those expandable rubber ones that you srew to expand. Has anyone ever tried this. Any thoughts. Thanks.
Parker 1801 drain plug
- Thread starter Larry
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So no trailer?
My personal solvent of choice is 50/50 ATF and acetone, mixed well just prior to use (apply with a paint brush) and give it an hour. If that doesn't work, you don't want to twist the screws out of the glass.
I would load it up inside and out with debond or antibond, remove the 3 screws and replace the whole fixture. This IS a job for 5200 when installing the new one.
The hardest part may be finding a new fixture that exactly matches the old screw holes. I wonder how many screw pattern diameters there are.
My personal solvent of choice is 50/50 ATF and acetone, mixed well just prior to use (apply with a paint brush) and give it an hour. If that doesn't work, you don't want to twist the screws out of the glass.
I would load it up inside and out with debond or antibond, remove the 3 screws and replace the whole fixture. This IS a job for 5200 when installing the new one.
The hardest part may be finding a new fixture that exactly matches the old screw holes. I wonder how many screw pattern diameters there are.
I have a trailer but do not want to pull the boat every time I want to empty the bilge. Do not want to remove anything existing. Looking at using an expanding plug on the inside side of the existing drain and not use the copper plug on the outsideat all. Trying to leave existing drain hole leave off the threaded external, brass plug and use and expanding plug from the inside instead.
Thanks for the help.
warthog5
Well-known member
THAT is not what he's saying.
He's saying to use the trailer THIS time to work on it and get the plug Free.
and if it's stuck THAT bad may need to just replace the whole Garboard plug fixture.
May need a monkey wrench and cheater bar to loosen it. Or as said Replace the whole Fixture.
Good luck putting a expandable plug in the threaded hole..... I understand why, but not crazy about the idea.
Not sure about best way to deal with the plug issues but just wanted to comment about using the 50/50 Auto Trans Fluid & Acetone; it is very powerful be careful using. Use a good container or will go right through the bottom, I know. Best bolt remover I've seen, usually on let sit short while to do the trick.
Good luck, other members may have additional ideas concerning your primary concern - pics are always helpful.
Good luck, other members may have additional ideas concerning your primary concern - pics are always helpful.
Expandable drain plug is a bad idea (in my opinion). If you decide to go that route attach a leash to it and keep a spare on board. I would want an alarm to alert you of excessive water in the bilge should it fail or become dislodged. Make sure your bilge pump, float switch and hose is of good condition, quality and capacity.
I wet slip and before I pull in I bow up and use the manual switch to remove as much water as it can. There will always be some that can't be pumped out.
I wet slip and before I pull in I bow up and use the manual switch to remove as much water as it can. There will always be some that can't be pumped out.
Sorry for my misunderstanding and the lack of clarity on my question. I can get the existing plug free by using a kayak to access it. It is not stuck at all.
Once I remove the existing brass plug on the outside, is it safe to leave it out and use solely an expansion plug on the inside.
Thanks for the help.
Good information. Thanks.
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Someone makes a screw-in plug, removable from the inside. IOW, the handle is on the inside, but the plug screws in from the outside. Lemme find it.
I would be inclined to have a stainless rod threaded into my existing one, so I wouldn't have to remove the fitting.
Something like this:
I would be inclined to have a stainless rod threaded into my existing one, so I wouldn't have to remove the fitting.
Something like this:
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I can dig it. I keep mine in an "armored" mason jar, because acetone is hard on many plastics. I just taped foam around the jar. Also if you go this route, shake immediately prior to use. It is a mixture, not a solution, so they separate. The acetone makes it thin, then evaporates in a slight boiling action, leaving the atf behind.
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warthog5
Well-known member
Here is a link to the one above.... I wasn't sure at first if that T was just a plastic teather..... It is not.
https://www.boatoutfitters.com/angl...MI47TcnrX3_wIVHzfUAR0mOgV9EAQYByABEgJmbPD_BwE
Here is the Standard in the Industry as to a manufacture that makes extremely good parts. Graco Groco Garboard Drain W/Inside T-Handle Plug [It's Not Brass... It's All silicone Bronze]
this style can be installed thru the bottom of the hull.
Why is that important?
Because it stick straight up. Does not interfere with where the bilge pump is mounted now [in front of Garboard plug. Easier to get your hands on it. I would coat the plug threads with some TefGel.
At any rate... To get what you want... You will need the trailer and perform a Garboard plug exchange or addition.
https://www.boatoutfitters.com/angl...MI47TcnrX3_wIVHzfUAR0mOgV9EAQYByABEgJmbPD_BwE
Here is the Standard in the Industry as to a manufacture that makes extremely good parts. Graco Groco Garboard Drain W/Inside T-Handle Plug [It's Not Brass... It's All silicone Bronze]
this style can be installed thru the bottom of the hull.
Why is that important?
Because it stick straight up. Does not interfere with where the bilge pump is mounted now [in front of Garboard plug. Easier to get your hands on it. I would coat the plug threads with some TefGel.
At any rate... To get what you want... You will need the trailer and perform a Garboard plug exchange or addition.
I know I’m definitely in the minority but what is the point of removing the plug on a parker? No rain water can get into the bilge no in floor boxes that drain into the box and I’ve never had the transom battery boxes leak. Unless your deck plates are leaking (in witch case you should fix them). I might have seen my bilge pump go off twice in 3 years of owning that boat I never took the plug out on the trailer over the winter and I wet slipped the boat during the summer
The anchor locker drains into the bilge as does water that passes under the console in through the rigging holes. (don't ask me how I know 
)
)chas650r
Well-known member
A dedicated small wet vac still seems like the easiest answer IMO.
Interesting comment. I have a good friend who has the same boat and says the same thing. This boat is new to me and I am still learning it to say the least. When I got it from the previous owner it had a couple gallons of what appeared to be boat washing soap in it. Before first use we had a couple heavy rains and it had a bunch of water in it again, which I drained.
Put the boat on the lift and have used it about 3 times. Checked it last night and completely dry. I haven't washed yet but will see if I get water when I do that.
In the past I had a 16 Whaler Montauk with an internal expanding plug and I always liked it for a variety of reasons. Was thinking it might be good for the Parker too.
Thanks for the comment.
I had a stuck plug , brass on brass, someone tweaked it good and tight. It saves a lot of time just to replace the whole assembly. 3 screws, load back up with epox or 5200, new flange with plug about $20.
I have a huge Channel Lock brand wrench for sale cheap
I have a huge Channel Lock brand wrench for sale cheap
