Parker 2001 2100se trolling motor recommendation

[Ilove2fish]

I have 2001 Parker 2100se that I would like to install a trolling motor. What does anyone recommend and is it hard to install (wiring,batteries,etc). Thanks in advance

 

[sydngoose]

You’ll need a 36 volt system. 24v just won’t hold you in all conditions.
I like minn Kota over Rhodan.
I own one of each, and I like the minn Kota better.
I also have a Motorguide XI 3 on my flats boat. Again Minn Kota is the best of all three units.

Then you have to decide if you want lithium batteries or AGM batteries. If you go lithium you can put them anywhere in the boat. If you got AGM they really should be in your center console... For weight distribution.

The wiring is very straightforward. You were use eight AWG for your run. You’ll need a 60 amp circuit breaker blue seas is an excellent choice. You’re more than likely need a 3/8 inch aluminum base plate extension to reach over your rub rail. You’ll mount your quick release puck here.

Do you have a pulpit, do you have a bow rail? These are two nuances you’ll have to consider regarding placement. Do you have a windlass? These will dictate your placement.

If you search the hull truth under bow mounted Trolling Motor or Rhodan installation you’ll find tons of ideas. You will definitely need a 72 inch shaft.

Ask any questions. Here’s my trolly install.
It’ll get you thinking about the details at least

https://www.classicparker.com/threa...-minn-kota-trolling-motor-installation.20377/

 

[Inshore Chaser]

If you do the install yourself figure the total cost will be about 2X the cost of the trolling motor. Add about $1K if you have it professionally installed. A big decision is lithium or AGM. If you have the extra cash go with lithium batteries...much lighter, smaller footprint and longer lasting power. Not a hard job but finding the proper mounting position is key....be sure to keep the functionality of your anchor locker and any other hatches. You may have to relocate the bow nav light or replace with side/rubrail nav lights. Plenty of info here and on Parker Boats Owners facebook group. It will be worth the investment...Good Luck!

 

[Ilove2fish]

Thank you for your input. You gave me a lot you think about...

 

[warthog5]

I have installed a LOT of them ....I do not understand why Sydngoose likes the Minkota better? I like the Rodan Better and thats where my $ would be spent.....

Here's why: Minkota has a separate Puck antenna that has to be installed....It does make a difference where it's installed....I try to mount them in the right hand corner of the top of the console. Rodan.....It's right on the unit.

TM in stowed position.....Minkota....Flapping in the Breeze as your running....NO shaft support.
Rodan.....Has shaft support to lock it down...Last thing you want in rough seas is that thing moving.

Remote Control....Minkota has twice as many buttons on it.... Rodan Simple and straight forward.

 

[sydngoose]

I have installed a LOT of them ....I do not understand why Sydngoose likes the Minkota better? I like the Rodan Better and thats where my $ would be spent.....

Here's why: Minkota has a separate Puck antenna that has to be installed....It does make a difference where it's installed....I try to mount them in the right hand corner of the top of the console. Rodan.....It's right on the unit.

TM in stowed position.....Minkota....Flapping in the Breeze as your running....NO shaft support.
Rodan.....Has shaft support to lock it down...Last thing you want in rough seas is that thing moving.

Remote Control....Minkota has twice as many buttons on it.... Rodan Simple and straight forward.

Wart: hey bud! The “puck Antenna" is called a heading sensor: this heading sensor does one thing only: Allows you to "jog" 5 feet in any direction: this is simply a heading sensor that has bluetooth communication to the motor and tells the motor the longitudinal axis of the boat to "jog". If you don't install it on the boat, you just can't "jog" while on anchor...but you can manually press the arrows on your remote to move the boat. This heading sensor has nothing to do with anchoring, GPS or Spot Locking: it is for another feature/ option all together.

The GPS sensor IS in the Minn Kota head just like Rhodan. In fact, on my last Minn Kota installation on the Parker 2320, I didn't even install the heading sensor because I don't need to jog. What you describe as "Rhodan ...its' right on the unit"... you are referring to the GPS sensor ( which is also in the same location Minn Kota or rhodan: INSIDE the motor).

Rhodan doesn't have a heading sensor because Rhodan doesn't have a "jog" feature.

TM in stowed positon.... Minn Kota ALSO comes with a shaft stabilization kit ( no extra cost...comes w/ the motor): it is the same with Rhodan: both have shaft stabilization kits. I always just use a RAM mount for the shaft stabilization when stowed: minn kota or Rhodan. So, to say Minn Kota "flaps in the wind" is not accurate: it has the shaft stabilization as well. Anyone who installs a 72" , 84", 87" or 96" shaft absolutely MUST also mount a shaft stabilization kit: that could be a RAM mount or the MK stabilization kit: either way, that shaft is then part of the boat: does not move a cm underway once locked down.

Remote Control has more features on Minn Kota vs Rhodan. Yes, that is true because it has more features and options. It's like Tesla: LOTS of options to make the user experience that much greater. BUT, you don't have to use the features. In fact, there is only one button I press on Minn Kota remote: the anchor button for spot locking.

I am not a cheerleader for MK. I have not dog in the fight. Like I noted on another post, I have all three trolling motors on three different boats: Minn Kota 112, 36v, 87" on the Parker 2320 , Motorguide Xi3, 12V, 48" on the Willy Roberts and a Rhodan 24V, 60" on the Parker 1801... Pick one and just do it. For me, I'll only buy MK in the future as I see too many of my Rhodan captains and friends getting Rhodan parts overnight for motherboard failures along with other components.
I will give you that MK Ulterra suck. But, the MK Terrova? Bulletproof. I don't see any of your points above as evidence that Rhodan is the superior choice.

But, I love what you're doing in the industry: You have a knack for building boats better.

 

[warthog5]

I've never seen the Shaft stabilizer / Ram Mount come with a Minkota. I've installed at least 6 Minkota GPS TM's

 

[sydngoose]

I've never seen the Shaft stabilizer / Ram Mount come with a Minkota. I've installed at least 6 Minkota GPS TM's

i’ve installed two in the last 12 months. The 112 pound Minn Kota’s all come with their Minn Kota stabilizing arm.

you can see it installed on my last boat. I did modify the stabilizing arm so I would not have to drill into my washboards. This boat was too pretty to put more holes in. The tennis ball in contact w the deck worked to keep the shaft from moving at all.
This installation I actually built the entire lithium distribution center into that icey tek cooler. The entire system could be removed from the boat and out on another boat if desired.

 

[sydngoose]

Ps: the last picture I posted is exactly to the T how I would mount a minn Kota 36v,112 pound 72” on a Parker 21 SE

 

[Inshore Chaser]

Just purchased a Terrova 112 72 inch and a stabilizer was not included. It may be included with the 87 inch. I prefer the RAM stabilizer with a Tough Claw.

 

[sydngoose]

Just purchased a Terrova 112 72 inch and a stabilizer was not included. It may be included with the 87 inch. I prefer the RAM stabilizer with a Tough Claw.

Weird.

I also prefer the claw, but if you want to pay for shipping, you can have the minn Kota stabilizing arm I posted above. It’s new ; in packaging, never opened. Because like you, I prefer the RAM mount.

 

[sydngoose]

One last note because it hasn’t been mentioned yet.
you will need a backing plate w any bow mounted trolling motor. The base plate bracket should thru-bolt in 6 locations through your forward casting deck through a backing plate, washers, locknut.
This may require a 1/2” to 1” “spacer” between the aluminum base plate and the forward casting deck.
the spacer is necessary of course to allow the base plate to flush mount over the ribrail.
The spacer is usually starboard of the correct thickness.
Here’s what I’m talking about beneath the forward casting deck.
backing plate SHOULD be aluminum, even 1/4”.
I used 1” starboard this this installation. It was fine.

 

[sydngoose]

Your bracket becomes part of the boat.

 

[Flytyingguy1]

Stay away from the ulterra unless your buying 2 of them because one of them will always be in the shop.