Parker 21se Quality Questions and Fiberglass repair

[Dleopoldi914]

I am a fairly new boater and every year learn how to do more and more projects.

After a few seasons of boating with a classic montauk 17, and after looking at several makes and models of boats, I fell in love with the Parker 21se.

Factors on the decision were the price point (BW montauk 21 double the price, GW triple the price) and the no frills platform which didn't try to jam a thousand seats and use space in an inefficient way (robalo/seahunt non efficient use of space, jones brothers -price and shorter beam). I also loved the 8'6 beam and it was a nice package of add ons that come on the boat.

The dealer I bought the boat new from is about 1.5 hours away. It is a 2021 21se.

I know with any boat things will break and I don't mind doing the work. However, am I wrong for saying that the reason the parkers are fairly priced is there are a ton of small things that need to be upgraded on the boat? Also there are some things that are done to keep cost down that in the end cause more problems. It seems like I am always fixing something on this boat and its a new boat.

In the past anything I had an issue with which should be warrantied for the dealer to do the work its been get on a list and wait which for stupid minor cosmetic things they've been great at mailing me parts.

The screws on the boat rusted after 3 months, the response was comical. The answer I got is stainless is not stain proof. Also they said I need to wash my boat better. (What a joke I wash after every single use and use salt away periodically on the engine). I get it but on a 3 month old boat the screws shouldn't be rusted, before this I had a 40 year old whaler with not 1 spot of rust. When I removed the screws there was no sealant applied to some screws (major issue with crevice corrosion) and the painted ones look like a low quality 304.

The screws on the boat I replaced them all with good 316 from Boltdepot and bedded with anchor tech.

The livewell pumps have failed after only a month of use consistently, and what I have noticed is that you can just wire a spare cartridge and keep it under the console. My livewell pump is wired up with deutch connectors that are waterproof for easy plug and play in case it happens again.

The underwater lights were also useless right off the bat never used them once and never worked. I worked with a company called Macris to replace them with better aftermarket ones but I wanted the dealer to do this for me and I would provide the lights and they gave me a hard time. Which I don't understand I am asking you to fix the problem not just put the same crap which your sales rep that sold me the boat said parker shouldn't even put them on the boat because they fail. Eventually I got tired of fighting with them, didn't want to drive 1.5 hours each way, and didn't want to lay the boat up for 2 weeks, so I keep a relationship with a local shop and it needed to go for some general engine maintenance so I got them to install the better lights.

The other thing is the livewell the base of the well the caulking looks like it was applied by a 5 year old I had to remove the old caulk and recaulk the well.

Just yesterday I was cleaning my deck and notice a small chip in the deck, now from what I am reading this can be from when they glassed the deck there was an airbubble that is now a void? Does that make sense or seem right? I am reading others that have had issues with various voids. I will get some more pics when I go down the boat later. It doesn't seem like a very large chip.

Rather than drive 1.5 hours each way and lay the boat up, I want to attempt to maybe make this repair. I am thinking worse case scenario someone can maybe grind out what I did and fix it. Does anyone know how to mix the gel coat to get the repair on the non skid? What color, texture etc?

Is it as simple as just degreasing and using acetone on the chip, Then grinding a little bit, putting in filler, and then getting the same gelcoat that parker used for the deck that comes with the sand mixed in and just apply?

I have another scratch on the boat that needs to be also fixed (this was my fault the first time docking in my home dock I didn't have a corner bumper). For this scratch I can hardly put a fingernail in it. Parker was good with providing me a pint of gel coal. I believe i need to mix this with wax and hardener? Then can I use one of those cotton tip pen brushes and paint the gel coat into the scratch, then wet sand it going up in grits of sandpaper? Do you think I should just hire a pro to do this, its about a 24 inch area? Below is the scratch on the side of the boat. I am thinking if he is doing this, then maybe have him do the chip. I would assume that if I provide him with all the gel coat, then i take out alot of the major guess work for these guys which is tinting to match? Is that a correct assumption?





This is the brush I was going to use to paint the gel coat in the scratch.

 

[Dleopoldi914]

Here is the chip on my deck, it’s not big but anyone know what gel coat to use or how to repair?

Seems like a void in the gel to me




I also know notice this crack is this just cosmetic or should I address?


This is on the stringer in the front of the boat

 

[warthog5]

(BW montauk 21 double the price, GW triple the price)

Both have a "Cult" Following, and I'd take a Parker ANY day over either of those manufactures.

You say "NEW" as in a 2023?

The rusting screws....... They are 8-18 or 304 Stainless.... Want stainless that doesn't Rust... you need 316 stainless.

As to "On the List" Pretty Standard thruout the industry. This is due to being Sooooooo busy.... and they may not even have enough room in their Parking lot....I have seen that.
I know of places that spend Monday and Tuesday as diginostic's.... and getting parts ordered. Nothing is fixed..... Then Wed. Thur. & Friday repairing other boats that have been diagnosed and the parts are in.
Getting parts can Still be a Pain. IF you use one of those cotton tip brushes....You WILL have a mess.

 

[Dleopoldi914]

Both have a "Cult" Following, and I'd take a Parker ANY day over either of those manufactures.

You say "NEW" as in a 2023?

The rusting screws....... They are 8-18 or 304 Stainless.... Want stainless that doesn't Rust... you need 316 stainless.

As to "On the List" Pretty Standard thruout the industry. This is due to being Sooooooo busy.... and they may not even have enough room in their Parking lot....I have seen that.
I know of places that spend Monday and Tuesday as diginostic's.... and getting parts ordered. Nothing is fixed..... Then Wed. Thur. & Friday repairing other boats that have been diagnosed and the parts are in.
Getting parts can Still be a Pain. IF you use one of those cotton tip brushes....You WILL have a mess.

It was a 2021, I got one of the last boats the family was involved in. I am on season 3.

The stainless irs dissapointing should out the better hardware.

I think for the gel coat just going to use a pro. What color is the non skid for that chip?

 

[tomc585]

Those chips look like something was dropped. I've seen this a lot. I avoid this by placing a mat down when I'm doing work , the cordless drill falls over all the time.
I also don't allow people to load my boat. Hand me your stuff and I'll place it on the boat. Beach chairs leave a lot of marks.

 

[Dleopoldi914]

Those chips look like something was dropped. I've seen this a lot. I avoid this by placing a mat down when I'm doing work , the cordless drill falls over all the time.
I also don't allow people to load my boat. Hand me your stuff and I'll place it on the boat. Beach chairs leave a lot of marks.

Thank you. I can accept that then…..

 

[Dleopoldi914]

Ok I think I got an approach.

I was told by the dealer the gel coat for the non skid is the same as the non skis except the non skid has the sand in the gel coat giving it a little darker appearance.

I am going to buy wax adder for fiberglass, I have the gel coat without the wax, Mekp in a dropper bottle, west system 406 and a bottle of black fiberglass tint.

I would assume 2oz should be enough for this repair.

I am going to use the bur tip on my dremel and get rid of the cracks. So it’s a nice void to fill.

Then I will stir the gel coat really good in the can and take 2 30ml syringes which is 2 oz and put in a cup.

I will add the 406? How much to add? It’s 2oz gel coat

I will finally add 3 drops of black tint? Is that enough?

I was told to mix 24 drops of Wax

Will mix all together and add Mekp it says 24 drops for 2oz.

I am going to take a chip brush and fill it in picking from my cup.

I am going to make sure I tape with painters tape around the chip well.

Is there anything i am missing?

 

[Inshore Chaser]

You are over thinking and stressing about this little ding. Some West Systems Epoxy and go fishing. It is a cosmetic issue only....looks like an impact of sorts..maybe a big jig or heavy sinker. Does not appear to be a mfg flaw. But I know it sucks regardless...

 

[warthog5]

Those chips look like something was dropped.

My thoughts Exactly when I saw it.

The dealer said there was sand in the nonskid..... or YOU said that?
Do NOT use Sand as Nonskid..... Not unless you want Lil black dots showing up everywhere.

As said.... Your making a Big deal about that spot. I can just about Guarantee it WILL be a eyesore when you get done with it.

You don't need to add wax..... Not if you buy "Finishing resign". Finish resign has wax in it. "Laminating resign" does not....

 

[djtheo]

I have the same boat, but a 2018. I'll be curious what you end up doing to fix the chip as I have at least one of 2 on my deck, along with what you are calling a crack down one of the stringers. I've not worried about them as what many have said, I'll make it look worse. I even have some on the outside walls that were there when I bought the boat 3 years ago...and still there today.

 

[Dleopoldi914]

My thoughts Exactly when I saw it.

The dealer said there was sand in the nonskid..... or YOU said that?
Do NOT use Sand as Nonskid..... Not unless you want Lil black dots showing up everywhere.

As said.... Your making a Big deal about that spot. I can just about Guarantee it WILL be a eyesore when you get done with it.

You don't need to add wax..... Not if you buy "Finishing resign". Finish resign has wax in it. "Laminating resign" does not....

The dealer told me that the non skid is same color as the exterior of the boat and the reason that the non skid looks a different color is because the non skid has grip added to the paint.

If you are saying non skid will add a little black then maybe it is right because the advice I got from a buddy with a Parker was exterior gel coat and blend some black.

Also the gel coat I have for the boat is what I bought to fix the messed up trolling motor install a shop did.

I asked here once on a thread and was told it doesn’t have wax. The dealer got me the gel coat from Parker.

This is what the gel coat looks like.

 

[rnjpinz]

Interesting post. I also have a 2021 21SE. Are the rusting screws you are talking about on the ss rub rail??

 

[Dleopoldi914]

Interesting post. I also have a 2021 21SE. Are the rusting screws you are talking about on the ss rub rail??

No painted screws holding live well and kick plate……

My rub rail screws through the hell are also rusting and my transom rings are as well.

They use crap hardware and accessories on the boat

 

[rnjpinz]

No painted screws holding live well and kick plate……

My rub rail screws through the hell are also rusting and my transom rings are as well.

They use crap hardware and accessories on the boat

Interesting, All my rub rail screws look like new. So do my transom rings No rust or corrosion.

 

[Seaway85]

You are over thinking and stressing about this little ding. Some West Systems Epoxy and go fishing. It is a cosmetic issue only....looks like an impact of sorts..maybe a big jig or heavy sinker. Does not appear to be a mfg flaw. But I know it sucks regardless...

I second the quick-fix with the epoxy, but also empathize with wanting to fix the visual imperfection.

Regarding the scratch, I’m not sure you need to dremel anything deeper. Might be easier to just dab in some of the thickened gelcoat mix you’re planning on making. I’ll defer to the experts here on that though.

A quick warning if you’ve never used the 406 before - it is one of the lightest, practically-floats-out-of-the-container substances I’ve seen, so be careful opening it and mix slow at first to avoid it floating out of your mixing cup. And maybe wear a mask the first go-around.

In terms of how much 406 to use, all of the advice I’ve gotten and videos I’ve watched for thickening gelcoat or epoxy have used common liquid-y substances as references for consistencies to aim for, rather than recommending number of scoops per pumps of epoxy, oz of gelcoat, etc. Watching some youtube videos to look at the consistencies people mix for different purposes helped me a lot: scratches on horizontal vs vertical surfaces, larger voids, etc. “Peanut butter consistency” or a little looser or firmer than peanut butter is a benchmark people use a lot. Just keep adding the 406 while mixing thoroughly to get to the desired thickness. Watch how it drips from the mixing stick for reference.

Especially if it’s your first go-around with gelcoat, and even more so if you need different consistencies for each of your fixes, don’t plan on getting it all done in one batch. Have everything taped off and protected from spills, all your tools around you and ready to go before starting so you don’t have to scramble while your pot-time is counting down. I’ve found it’s always messier and more of a PITA than I expect. Good luck!

 

[Dleopoldi914]

I second the quick-fix with the epoxy, but also empathize with wanting to fix the visual imperfection.

Regarding the scratch, I’m not sure you need to dremel anything deeper. Might be easier to just dab in some of the thickened gelcoat mix you’re planning on making. I’ll defer to the experts here on that though.

A quick warning if you’ve never used the 406 before - it is one of the lightest, practically-floats-out-of-the-container substances I’ve seen, so be careful opening it and mix slow at first to avoid it floating out of your mixing cup. And maybe wear a mask the first go-around.

In terms of how much 406 to use, all of the advice I’ve gotten and videos I’ve watched for thickening gelcoat or epoxy have used common liquid-y substances as references for consistencies to aim for, rather than recommending number of scoops per pumps of epoxy, oz of gelcoat, etc. Watching some youtube videos to look at the consistencies people mix for different purposes helped me a lot: scratches on horizontal vs vertical surfaces, larger voids, etc. “Peanut butter consistency” or a little looser or firmer than peanut butter is a benchmark people use a lot. Just keep adding the 406 while mixing thoroughly to get to the desired thickness. Watch how it drips from the mixing stick for reference.

Especially if it’s your first go-around with gelcoat, and even more so if you need different consistencies for each of your fixes, don’t plan on getting it all done in one batch. Have everything taped off and protected from spills, all your tools around you and ready to go before starting so you don’t have to scramble while your pot-time is counting down. I’ve found it’s always messier and more of a PITA than I expect. Good luck!

Yea that was the approach I was going to take on that scratch dab it in with a brush then wet sand going from 200 to 1000.

I found someone who does gel coat for a living and may fix it for $100.