Words to live by!Megabyte":2n9d5l3p said:DaleH":2n9d5l3p said:
That's why I keep telling my ride... "good girl, good girl!"
Because even though I'd LOVE a new Yamaha Offshore 300, the price tag shocks me. :shock:
Truth is... if you pay $25k for a boat and then re-power with a $20k motor, you do not now have a $45k boat.
What you have is a $25k boat with a new motor.
Once you come to terms with that, you take good care of what you've got. :wink:
Parker 2320 EC (aka "2330") question
- Thread starter SBH2OMan
- Start date
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DaleH":vc24q4vf said:
Megabyte":vc24q4vf said:
Two wise statements from a couple of obviously very experienced boaters.
And this is exactly the "boat" that I'm currently in. After much debate and discussion, I'm currently waiting on the delivery of a brand new Yamaha F250 with Command Link Plus to replace the 1997 OX66 250 that came with my 2320EC that was just purchased this past May. I enjoy the Parker so much and wanting to keep it for many a year to come, I figured I'd invest in something that I would definitely know the history of and have full knowledge of all the maintenance performed on it. I just wish I had been able to rejuvenate my OX66 like Capt. Kevin was able to do when he got his before my major issue developed. If I had to do it all over again, which was not that many months ago, I'd follow his above list exactly as listed. I was only able to get a few of those things accomplished.
Oh well, no looking back now. Full speed ahead.
miky2884
Well-known member
Fireman just wondering what the major problem with your ox66 was that made you have to repower? Im ready to close on a 2320 with a 2000 ox66 and im looking for all the info i can get
dave11
Well-known member
Megabyte":x6trq6f7 said:DaleH":x6trq6f7 said:
That's why I keep telling my ride... "good girl, good girl!"
Because even though I'd LOVE a new Yamaha Offshore 300, the price tag shocks me. :shock:
Truth is... if you pay $25k for a boat and then re-power with a $20k motor, you do not now have a $45k boat.
What you have is a $25k boat with a new motor.
Once you come to terms with that, you take good care of what you've got. :wink:
The 2320EC is a great boat. He is a DON'T WANTER. Keep the above in mind.
Decide what you will pay. Give your broker a check & an offer.
As you said above, tell him this is my offer PERIOD.
Any counter offers will be discounted.
Good luck.
Miky2884,
It appears that I had a piston seize up in one of the cylinders. My mechanic has not fully diagnosed the problem yet, as he's waiting to do so when he installs the new outboard. I guess there's any number of things that would have caused it, my first guess being a failure of the oil system.
I had just purchased the boat a few months before this happened and was in the process of completing some basic maintenance issues. About 2-3 weeks before the failure, I had to replace the VST filter because the motor started bogging really bad. This completely fixed the bogging and it ran like new for several weeks. (I had also replaced the fuel filter on the motor and the fuel/water separator filter.) The day of the failure it ran for about 6 hours with no signs of problems, and without warning while running at 3/4 throttle, it lost power and the RPM's dropped really low. No alarms sounded. I shut it down and checked the oil reservoir and looked over what I could. Found nothing obvious that was wrong. I restarted the motor and throttled back up and as the boat came up on plane, it lost power again and I shut it off. I looked over things a second time and when I went to start it again, the motor wouldn't turn over. When I pulled the plugs, one of them had small shavings of metal that looked like they were soldered to the end of the spark plug.
I'm looking forward to the mechanics diagnosis just so I'll know what I could possibly do in the future to prevent something like this from happening again. I've been told it could have been an oil system failure, a fuel system problem with the low pressure fuel pumps leaking or an injector issue. I'm sure they're other possibilities as well.
I wouldn't be afraid of purchasing a OX66 if you're still looking at one. Everything that I've read about them says they're really tough motors that last awhile if you take care of them. Plenty of people on here really like them. I just wish I would have done something earlier to prevent my problem from happening, but I didn't see it coming. I'm just looking forward to learning what caused it now.
Good luck.
It appears that I had a piston seize up in one of the cylinders. My mechanic has not fully diagnosed the problem yet, as he's waiting to do so when he installs the new outboard. I guess there's any number of things that would have caused it, my first guess being a failure of the oil system.
I had just purchased the boat a few months before this happened and was in the process of completing some basic maintenance issues. About 2-3 weeks before the failure, I had to replace the VST filter because the motor started bogging really bad. This completely fixed the bogging and it ran like new for several weeks. (I had also replaced the fuel filter on the motor and the fuel/water separator filter.) The day of the failure it ran for about 6 hours with no signs of problems, and without warning while running at 3/4 throttle, it lost power and the RPM's dropped really low. No alarms sounded. I shut it down and checked the oil reservoir and looked over what I could. Found nothing obvious that was wrong. I restarted the motor and throttled back up and as the boat came up on plane, it lost power again and I shut it off. I looked over things a second time and when I went to start it again, the motor wouldn't turn over. When I pulled the plugs, one of them had small shavings of metal that looked like they were soldered to the end of the spark plug.
I'm looking forward to the mechanics diagnosis just so I'll know what I could possibly do in the future to prevent something like this from happening again. I've been told it could have been an oil system failure, a fuel system problem with the low pressure fuel pumps leaking or an injector issue. I'm sure they're other possibilities as well.
I wouldn't be afraid of purchasing a OX66 if you're still looking at one. Everything that I've read about them says they're really tough motors that last awhile if you take care of them. Plenty of people on here really like them. I just wish I would have done something earlier to prevent my problem from happening, but I didn't see it coming. I'm just looking forward to learning what caused it now.
Good luck.
Capt.Guy
Well-known member
Its been a long time since i posted anything on CP, But when I saw the topic I had to at least say HI I have had a 1995 2330 for 7 years and it has got to be one of the coolest boats on the bay (if i do say so myself) I repowered with twin f-115 yamahas in 2006 and every spring when i splash her...I fall in love with this boat all over again. Sometimes I start to get the itch for a single inboard diesel,but if i think it thru the barnegat bay has alot of shallow spots that this thing just scoots over. This boat does everything I ever ask her to do with comfort and confidence. I wonder how many years I can keep her around? 8)
I have had a 1995 2330 for 7 years and it has got to be one of the coolest boats on the bay (if i do say so myself) I repowered with twin f-115 yamahas in 2006 and every spring when i splash her...I fall in love with this boat all over again. Sometimes I start to get the itch for a single inboard diesel,but if i think it thru the barnegat bay has alot of shallow spots that this thing just scoots over. This boat does everything I ever ask her to do with comfort and confidence. I wonder how many years I can keep her around? 8)Capt. Kevin,
It's been a few months since I pulled those plugs. I believe it was the top cylinder on the port side. I'm at work for 24 today and if I get a chance tomorrow, I'll go back and look at it again.
Have you ever seen anything like that?
Troy
It's been a few months since I pulled those plugs. I believe it was the top cylinder on the port side. I'm at work for 24 today and if I get a chance tomorrow, I'll go back and look at it again.
Have you ever seen anything like that?
Troy
miky2884
Well-known member
Fireman thanks for the info much appreciated. Liek you said I have herd great things about the ox66 motors i am going to Va this weekend to sea trial the boat and i will be sure to look over everything. I am interested to hear what the cause was of your problem when you know.
SBH2OMan
Well-known member
Since I bought the Lori-K (with a '99 Ox66 250) I have done a LoT of research on the motor. It is a simple motor with a very simple FI system. Here's what I would look for:
1. Disregard hours on the clock unless excessively high (over 1000) or low (under a few hundred).
2. Compression check. Don't worry if "low" (high 90's) unless the rest are in the 120's. As long as they are all close (10%) you are golden
3. Check idle speed. When warm should be 700 to 800. I idling at 1100 you have a problem with a sensor and the engine going into "fault mode" where it locks timing at 7degrees BTDC and idle at 1100. Check WOT - results can indicate the type of sensor problem
4. If you can buy or borrow them, get a "winky blinky" test lamp for reading the fault codes, also get a test harness for testing the TPS and O2 sensor.
I paid a certified Yamaha mechanic to inspect he engine, he charged me $300 and didn't do any of these simple things other than the comp test. I learned these simple things AFTER buying and wrenching on this motor.
The test procedures and part numbers for the test harnesses are in the manual. When I get to my computer I will post the details in a separate thread. (I'm on my iPhone)
-Brent
1. Disregard hours on the clock unless excessively high (over 1000) or low (under a few hundred).
2. Compression check. Don't worry if "low" (high 90's) unless the rest are in the 120's. As long as they are all close (10%) you are golden
3. Check idle speed. When warm should be 700 to 800. I idling at 1100 you have a problem with a sensor and the engine going into "fault mode" where it locks timing at 7degrees BTDC and idle at 1100. Check WOT - results can indicate the type of sensor problem
4. If you can buy or borrow them, get a "winky blinky" test lamp for reading the fault codes, also get a test harness for testing the TPS and O2 sensor.
I paid a certified Yamaha mechanic to inspect he engine, he charged me $300 and didn't do any of these simple things other than the comp test. I learned these simple things AFTER buying and wrenching on this motor.
The test procedures and part numbers for the test harnesses are in the manual. When I get to my computer I will post the details in a separate thread. (I'm on my iPhone)
-Brent
miky2884
Well-known member
Brent i greatly appreciate all the info, the more the better, and i will be sure to look out for all that you listed.
You might also want to ask if the owner had used any fuel amendments such as Ringfree, Star*Tron, and/or StaBil.
That will give you an idea if there might possibly be some top-end carbon that needs to be dealt with.
That will give you an idea if there might possibly be some top-end carbon that needs to be dealt with.
SBH2OMan
Well-known member
Posted more information on testing and working on the OX66 here:
viewtopic.php?f=8&t=9866
viewtopic.php?f=8&t=9866
