Parker 2830 Extended cabin updates:

Classic Parker Boat Forum

Help Support Classic Parker Boat Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
mark":v4djzvtj said:
Love your boat.
Question for you. Are those in deck fish boxes under the deck hatches?
If so, when you get a chance would love to see a picture of them opened up.
Thanks and congrats on finding what I wish I had found 8)

Thanks, Mark
The image below is the deck hatch layout: As seen from TOP of the picture to the bottom- Bilge compartment hatch, the next two "squares" comprise a large insulated fish box: 3 men can lay in there shoulder to shoulder it is so large. The bottom "square" in the photo is a rigging deck hatch: This is a large storage area that also accesses the area just beneath the pilot house where there are pumps, hoses, batteries, battery charges (both 15 amp guest pro charger and a Guest 30 amp shore power inverter). This particular space is great as I can sit in there literally and have access to all my pumps, holding tanks, hoses, I can even access fuel tank fill hoses, c-clamps, vent hoses, etc…
My plan is to RE-nonskid the entire hull. So, I will be removing all the screws that keep the insulated fish box cover adhered to the deck, back filling with thickened epoxy, and nonskidding over the repairs. There is no reason to keep the screws exposed. They are a potential for water whicking/ intrusion. So, they will be negated. Standby for photos.

I will be at the boat tonight after work, and I'll open these three hatches and post pictures so you can appreciate what I'm talking about. It's a great layout: easy bilge access, awesome in deck fish hold and access forward to systems for maintenance with a storage compartment built in.

 
Pictures of in deck compartments as I received her. She is up on work stands still under the knife with fiberglass and gelcoat repair, so I have yet to be able to get into the cleaning, refreshing, painting the inside compartments. Here she sits currently:

1.) The bilge compartment





2.) The insulated fish box



There is a 1 and 1/8 inch drain with a macerator pump attached in the bilge that discharges the fish box contents through a sea cocked' thru-hull



Forward in deck hatch cover lifted to reveal the rigging access/ pumps/ chargers/ batteries and some storage in there if needed











Gelcoat restoration is taking longer than I thought…but I should be wrapped up by midweek next week, then I can start taking apart and tidying up these other systems along with electronics installation.

As she sits today. I ordered a quart of factory gelcoat and the results are 100% spot on….wet sanding, compounding and she literally looks new again.. she's coming along.





I don't get 8 hour blocks to work on her: just 2 to 3 hour windows at a time…so I have to make good use of my free time. Here is a shot from 2 nights ago. I worked on her after my work day until the moon came up. What an awesome moon two nights ago!

 
The hull sides from the pilothouse back was ridden w gelcoat chips and breaks: 14 years of bottom fishing and down rigger lead has left a 12 gauge bird shot pattern decorating both sides of the hull... Ughh [emoji29] will wrap up the gelcoat work this weekend..
 
I think you should sell her :shock:

That is one sweet boat, everytime I see the extended cabin boats, starting with Brent's 2320, then Warts and Kidfree 2530, and now this I am just reinforced that I want one. They are just so practical while continuing to be fishing machines. Enjoy watching you clean her up.

On another note, I really wish they had put those floor hatches in the other size boats. Even my 2320 has so much room underneath that the hatches would have really been nice to have
 
MadGar":1d6uqpln said:
I think you should sell her :shock:

That is one sweet boat, everytime I see the extended cabin boats, starting with Brent's 2320, then Warts and Kidfree 2530, and now this I am just reinforced that I want one. They are just so practical while continuing to be fishing machines. Enjoy watching you clean her up.

On another note, I really wish they had put those floor hatches in the other size boats. Even my 2320 has so much room underneath that the hatches would have really been nice to have

Thanks, Pal. Everythings for sale...as the saying goes...if the price is right. :lol:
Once the gelcoat work is done (which has been way more than I anticipated) the rest of the refit should go quickly. I am shooting for September 2 as her initial splash date. Standby for updates.
I will give you all a sneak peak of what electronics are going in:

Garmin 5212 MFD flush mounted at the helm
Garmin CHIRP 74SC on bracket mounted top of helm (center where compass is located currently): CHIRP, downvision, sidevision sonar
Garmin GT51 tm X-ducer
Furuno FCV 587/588 mounted top of helm left near midline: traditional sonar
Furuno b60/20 thru-hull X-ducer
Garmin GHC10 Autopilot
Garmin GMR41 high definition digital radar
Garmin GDL30a XM/ Weather module for weather overlay
Fusion RA70 headunit with (4) 7 inch 200 w. speakers
all halogen lights being converted to LED lights: spreaders, courtesy, cabin, berth, nav, anchor, accent lighting

Furuno and CHIRP 74sv bracket location:



Yamaha work is done on both motors: she is turn key ready to burn some fuel:
Yamaha gear oil renew, water pump kits, impellas, new tilt seal on port motor, tilt O-ring on port motor, motor oil and filter, new Yamaha fuel filters, new Racor elements, thermostats, zinc tabs kit, check compression on all 12 cylinders (within spec), replace both timing belts, adjusted synchronized throttle timing, VST filters.
Exhaust corrosion scoping was NOT done at this time as my 5 star Yamaha mechanic described pulling the power heads for complete scoping. I'll have that done in 6 months at her semi-annual check up with Yamaha Mike. I didn't want to wait the amount of time it would have taken Mike to do the complete and proper exhaust housing scoping. Truthfully, Mike said his cursory examination revealed NO problems and he would surprised to find out that these two motors were affected as they were so clean on gross examination. But, in February (6 month check up), he'll pull both powerheads and scope the exhaust system.
Also, my plan is to run these motors for 12 months or so (expect problem free), then sell them complete with rigging for $12,000 and repower with Suzuki DF300's and add a second station at that time to the cockpit. So, about a year from now, I'll be offering up these motors for sale.
I've got $19,000 into her refit (NOT including what I paid for the boat/ motors) at this time...therfor, the repower is not happening immediately.
 
Hull sides look great. I'm going to do the same at the end of my season around late Nov ish. Never got to it last year. Some gel coat touch ups also. Bilge accesses and especially floor fish locker are very nice. I do wish that they put one on either side of the fuel tank on the 2120's. You are making good progress.
 
shawnee83":2yawwuxt said:
Hull sides look great. I'm going to do the same at the end of my season around late Nov ish. Never got to it last year. Some gel coat touch ups also. Bilge accesses and especially floor fish locker are very nice. I do wish that they put one on either side of the fuel tank on the 2120's. You are making good progress.

When you go to compound and wax the boat- please do yourself a favor:
Buy "aquabuff 2000" on Amazon. It is absolute truly amazing- your gelcoat will look new again.

Then apply your favorite wax like collinite 845 or rejex or collinite 885 fleet wax...I'm trying Rejex this time.

It's received fantastic 5 stars from Autogeek trials. Many high end boat builders are using it now as well.

Must compound w a lambs wool pad on your favorite rotary polisher at 2500 rpm's. Then wipe clean... Then wax.

Also Shawnee, I don't know where your home is, but late November end of the season makes me believe your Parker gets winterized ...

Most of these compounds describe not applying in temperature less than 55 F so I don't know if your climate would be suitable end of November???...
 
I keep my boat in Beaufort, NC but I live in a suburb of Winston Salem. I actually just moved my boat storage last week to a facility that has individual fully enclosed boat garages. Now I can keep my side windows open and maybe once I get her all pretty, it will be easier to keep it that way. My new storage is about 1 mile from the Parker plant. I purchased my boat from north of Boston, MA a few years ago and brought it back to where it started, lol. Fishing for us is about to get really good in the next few weeks as the fishy's start heading south again passing our area heading your way. It stays pretty good thru about December. That's typically when I quit running it. I'll start back up again usually in March sometime. I don't winterize the motor in Beaufort as the freezes are not that hard there, I just treat heavily, the little amount of fuel I store it with. This year I will have to winterize my AC system though. I'm probably going to bring my boat home to WS again this winter so I can get some stuff done. Cosmetics, bottom paint and probably install the battery charger that I didn't get to last winter/spring. I borrowed a friends Shurhold buffer the last time I did my hull. It worked well. I do need to purchase my own though. I used the Buff Magic compound and I think the Starbright and Meguiares waxes in the past. I got the Buff Magic tip from Megabyte and it is good stuff. I've never spent the time to get my cabin and cotpit up to snuff and that is what I want to get done this winter. We usually have plenty of days above 55 in the winter here so I should be ok. Thanks for the tips on the Collinite etc.., I've read other good reviews on that before. I might give that a try this time.
 
I don't want to sound negative here but I would love the flush mount on the electronics to work. They will impair your vision at night and take up your window space. The glare on those instruments can burn a hole in your eyeball. Just a little insight from night fishing. Sight is key. I love the boat. Just what to give a different perspective in adding to a great build.
 
kidfreediver":156n7gb0 said:
I don't want to sound negative here but I would love the flush mount on the electronics to work. They will impair your vision at night and take up your window space. The glare on those instruments can burn a hole in your eyeball. Just a little insight from night fishing. Sight is key. I love the boat. Just what to give a different perspective in adding to a great build.

Suggestions for an alternative? I am open to change the plan. 80% of my fishing is daytime. 20% is overnight Mango snapper fishing. I appreciate your concern (as it is valid and I've thought of it)… especially since neither the port or starboard windows open, just the center window opens. So, I'll be driving/ navigating behind the glass as you've pointed out. Here's the real estate I am working with for electronics instal.

I did install a Gemlux 3 spoke 13 and 1/2 inch steering wheel yesterday as I much prefer the small radius. Pic for perspective on mounting options.








As a side note: I did get a substantial upgrade yesterday at the marina/ boatyard. We got moved inside to work in the shade; sure beats the 100F temps outside! Gelcoat work from the rub rail to the waterline is finished. Topside almost done as well. Now to compound and polish this beast bow to stern, roof to waterline.





What would you suggest for electronic installation based on the surface area available for mounting?
 
I would definitly move those gauges vertical to the right of the tilt part of the helm or think about a retro fit if those are able to hook up to a nmea 2000 or 183 and do away with them with the new garmin 5212. Move the ignition over to the control box and possible slide down the lenco trim tab toggles. If you need a clean slate easy to do. I actually put a lip on my to accommodate the 12" screen that's runs every electronic that you have condensing the furuno and garmin together.
 

Attachments

  • ImageUploadedByTapatalk1471805805.045835.jpg
    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1471805805.045835.jpg
    267.4 KB
  • ImageUploadedByTapatalk1471805849.444979.jpg
    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1471805849.444979.jpg
    285 KB
  • ImageUploadedByTapatalk1471805891.242915.jpg
    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1471805891.242915.jpg
    289.7 KB
I got to run the 2830 for the 1st time yesterday….(less the sea trial)…The gelcoat work is finished up. Saddler Point Marina did an awesome job: I will compound, polish and buff her out end of next week…Her gelcoat looks like she just rolled off the Parker floor room.

Yesterday, she left the work rack, got slinged and placed in the drink. I then ran her 3 miles around the corner to a local boat ramp, loaded her on a triple axle trailer and hauled her 25 miles to my buddy's custom rigging and installation shop.
Boattronics is the industry leading custom rigger/ installer in Jacksonville, Fl. He has a blank canvas for rigging over the next 6 days. Here's the process we went through yesterday.









Behind the V10 Ford Excursion



safely to my buddys shop



tucked in for the night ready for Monday's morning's facelift

 
It's been a very busy 4 weeks. I just picked her up from my buddy's shop, Boattronics. He is a certified custom rigger/ electronics installer named Tony Edan. He makes magic happen inside a boat. So, here's what we did.

At the helm, we flush mounted the garmin 5212 as the main MFD, maps, and radar display.
Furuno 588 top left helm and Garmin Chirp 74sv for downvision/ sidescan. We mounted the autopilot GHC10 to the right of the main helm and the trim tabs switch just to the left of it. ACR remote spot light switch moved as well to open up a little real estate.
Garmin GMR41 radar on the roof will display on the 5212 as noted above.

GDL30a weather has to wait as we ran out of time. Also, we are going to rewire the entire bilge at the time as well: probably 4 weeks out on that. We will remove the "Guest" battery switches and replace with BlueSeas add a battery system that incorporates a ACR/ VSR and add one more ACR/ VSR to make the electrical system redundant: that way both yamahas can charge the cranking batteries or the house battery independent or if one motor goes down, the other motor will charge all three batteries.
There is also a guest marine 10 amp trickle charger on board (pro charger) and 30a shore power circuit as well.

Tunes are important, so we added a Fusion RA70 head unit and (4) 7" fusion speakers in the cabin only. This sound system will be revisited to add an amp and sub but this will do for now.

The keyswitch got moved down and over to open up flush mounting space. Also, every wire was replaced behind the helm: it had 14 years of add ons with splices and non-heat shrinked terminal ends. So, electronics are done for now.

Next project is redoing all the nonskid and getting Castaway Customs to come up to laser measure the inside of the cabin floor for faux teak sea deck flooring: main cabin, trunk cabin and berth.
Here's some boat candy to look at until I get the next phase underway.















 
Electronics set up looks very nice and functional. Future plans also sound good. Looking forward to your battery/charger and switches projects. Hoping to pick up a few tips. I didn't get to my charger project in the spring so I might get to it this spring. I've been all over the board on what charger I'm going to use but my recent favorite is the Blue Seas P12. It's completely programmable and it also has a remote panel that matches my shore power panels that I used.
https://www.bluesea.com/products/catego ... argers/P12
https://www.bluesea.com/products/1521/3 ... LED_Remote
 
Nice equipment. 8)
Looking forward to see the additional goodies.
 
Back
Top