Pilothouse corrosion

[HOTPURSUIT]

I have had my 2003 2520XL for about 10 months now. I have a continued problem with the aluminum around the windows corroding,mildew and a musty smell in the cabin. I keep the boat immaculate, no water leaks and lift kept with the aft lowered a bit to keep any water out of the forward bilge. I would like to find a solve other that hanging the mildew boxes or tubs of moisture absorbing crystals. I have seen some solar fans on the market to keep air moving but know of no one that has installed one. Does anyone else have this problem? Any suggestions? Thanks Mike

 

[Bryan 2530]

Yep. the Diamond Seaglaze windows suck in my opinion.

I found leaving windows open helps, also rain shields in the trunk cabin widows provides ventilation.

Search old posts, alot of solutions to the ventilation problem there.

Me? I'm going to pull my front windows out this winter and try a coating of sharkhide on the interior parts along with new window gaskets.

FWIW - My cousins 99' vintage 2320 has Wynn windows and those seem to hold up better, But the Diamond Seaglaze windows function better, easier to open.

 

[DaleH]

In a word ... ventilate ... Install a dorado box on the roof ...

 

[Megabyte]

In a word ... ventilate ...

What he said.
Your problem stems from a lack of ventilation.
Most of us have discovered, and conquered this issue.

Use the search tool or browse the projects section.
The answers are there.

 

[Parker23]

I always have windows on side cracked open a bit, no problems.

 

[DaleH]

Install a dorado box on the roof ...

Or the louvered vent windows by Beckson, see: viewtopic.php?f=8&t=6643

 

[HOTPURSUIT]

Thanks for the reply's, always good info! I have looked online and found the dorado ventilators along with a few other types. I see that they have floats to prevent water from coming in if you took a wave. Dale would you know if rain or a light rain would be a problem with a dorado mounted thru the hard top? It seems that would create more of an air flow that the low profile types that are typically mounted to hatch covers. Thanks Mike

 

[Megabyte]

I have been considering adding one of those solar vents to the center of my Bomar hatch to work in conjunction with my Beckson rain shields.
The thing stopping me has been because I'm not sure if the vent will clear the handle on the inside of the Bomar (the one that holds the hatch open).
Of course that, and you only get one chance at making that cut in the hatch. Mess that up, and you'll be buying a new one $$$.

Something else I do when I'm not on the boat is to pop open the deck hatch on the floor that is above the forward bilge pump, and leave it open.
That area seems to always retain condensate moisture, and keeping it open and aired out helps to keep everything under deck drier.
I also prop a small block of wood under the hatch aft. Between the two openings, the area under deck can breathe and remain dry.

 

[SommerTime]

This is my cheap solution and it works, no rain gets inside. The latches are seated in the groove just to outside of the rubber gasket.

 

[Megabyte]

This is my cheap solution and it works, no rain gets inside. The latches are seated in the groove just to outside of the rubber gasket.

I do that with mine!

 

[DaleH]

Dale would you know if rain or a light rain would be a problem with a dorado mounted thru the hard top?Mike

DORADES: The marine dorade vents I know of don't use floats or stoppers, rather there is a series of baffles that air can pass through that water can't or can't easily, as there are runoff holes (like a limber hole) in the housing to shed water that gets into the vent portion. Plus they have a cap one can affix from the inside to completely shield it off.

See: viewtopic.php?f=8&t=1480 for more info.

I have been considering adding one of those solar vents to the center of my Bomar hatch to work in conjunction with my Beckson rain shields. The thing stopping me has been because I'm not sure if the vent will clear the handle on the inside of the Bomar (the one that holds the hatch open).
Of course that, and you only get one chance at making that cut in the hatch. Mess that up, and you'll be buying a new one $$$.

SOLAR VENTS: I bought a solar/nicad powered vent for the forward hatch and came '.' this close to installing it ... what finally stopped me was that I'll fish offshore ... and these ventilators are rain proof, but not wave proof! I've taken waves to the cabin windows :shock: before and there's no way to shut off those ventilators or protect the backup battery circuitry from a saltwater dousing - they are 'rain proof' only .

This is my cheap solution and it works, no rain gets inside. The latches are seated in the groove just to outside of the rubber gasket.

I do that with mine!

Me too!

BILGE VENTS: FYI, for an easy DIY and slick way to vent the bilge area, take a look here: viewtopic.php?f=11&t=345

 

[Megabyte]

FYI, for an easy DIY and slick way to vent the bilge area, take a look here: viewtopic.php?f=11&t=345

I need to do that one!

 

[HOTPURSUIT]

This is my cheap solution and it works, no rain gets inside. The latches are seated in the groove just to outside of the rubber gasket.

Thanks propping the front windows open like that is way too simple I never would have thought about it :idea: . Great fix for now,but I'll need to do some homework, as I like the idea of putting a dorado box in the in the pilot house and a hatch ventilator below for some cross ventilation. The hard part is finding quality stuff that will function with minimal servicing or replacement, thats why I like throwing things out here for suggestions. The dorado box with the floats is made in england but the web site does not answer all my questions yet on function http://www.air-onlyventilators.com/main/?page=ventDsd I will do some reaserch and if I find a quality ventilator that fits well in the hatch cover I will follow up on it. Thanks again Mike

 

[Hungry1]

I use Damprid in the cuddy and they work really good. I put two bags in at a time and I'll get over a pint of water in each bag. The amount of time it takes to accumulate that much water varies depending on how much I'm using her. After a couple seasons she still smells brand new.

 

[sparky]

Yep. the Diamond Seaglaze windows suck in my opinion.

I found leaving windows open helps, also rain shields in the trunk cabin widows provides ventilation.

Search old posts, alot of solutions to the ventilation problem there.

Me? I'm going to pull my front windows out this winter and try a coating of sharkhide on the interior parts along with new window gaskets.

FWIW - My cousins 99' vintage 2320 has Wynn windows and those seem to hold up better, But the Diamond Seaglaze windows function better, easier to open.

DSG makes a much much better window than Wynne. We've used both in offshore lobster boats, and the DSG's are the only ones which don't leak. The corrosion is a factor of, as has been discussed, lack of ventilation. Anodized aluminum in a moist environment, plus salt=corrosion. Mikey's windows were probably better maintained. If you want to limit the corrosion, just wax the frames. It helps.

 

[Killin Time II]

I have a 2003 2520 SCMV with an open back cabin. I have a full sunbrella cover over my boat, so ventilation seems to be okay. I do not have any musty mildew. My windows are corroding however, especially at the corners where the anodize was stressed during the bending process. This winter I plan to pull mine out, bead blast them, coat them with Sherwin Williams epoxy primer, paint them with a two part silver urethane and install new gaskets. Then I will put them back into the cabin. Has anyone done this and is there any advice to offer me?

I know I have always had problems with the latches breaking so I took some 3"-4" PEX tubing and slit a groove down the side. When I open the window, the knob holds it until I snap the PEX tubing onto the sliding shaft mechanism. Kind of hokey but I got tired of buying new knob/latches. Anyone else have problems with the knobs?

 

[Bryan 2530]

DSG makes a much much better window than Wynne. We've used both in offshore lobster boats, and the DSG's are the only ones which don't leak. The corrosion is a factor of, as has been discussed, lack of ventilation. Anodized aluminum in a moist environment, plus salt=corrosion. Mikey's windows were probably better maintained. If you want to limit the corrosion, just wax the frames. It helps.

Mine leak.

I vent my boat beyond reproach.

Have tried wax, spray, cleaning wipes, etc.

I maintain my boat better than most thank you. (Except maybe Megabyte)


Good try though. 8)

 

[Killin Time II]

I am convinced that bead blasting and high quality primer / paint, before re-installing, will make a permanent fix. I will let you know how it goes for me.

 

[Bryan 2530]

Yeah, I was thinking powder coating but not sure if it might crack around the screw holes.

 

[HOTPURSUIT]

I have not had a chance to address my ventilation problem and the window corrosion problem as my motor quit on me and that took major priority during this fall striper season. much thanks to Chris at beacon light marina for making a house call and servicing my boat on the lift. he sent a mechanic to the house to trouble shoot and find the fuel pump in the vst tank went up. Returned a few days later with a new fuel pump and replaced all the fuel filters in the motor which I asked him to do. $ 920.00. I think that's not bad considering travel time. Fishing this weekend. Thanks Chris