Plastic pipe flange, any ideas? 2320 rod holders

[Bodick93]

I am trying to seal the rubber flanges that allow rod tips into the pilothouse. In other words, I would like to remove the flanges, install a flanged, closed ended (inside-the-pilothouse end) plastic tube and reinstall the rubber flanges. The hole opening in the starboard type bulkhead is 2," and the rubber flange is 3 7/16." I could really leave the rubber flange off. Picture a golf bag tube, closed on one end, flanged on the other to serve as a sleeve for rods that will seal the cockpit from the cabin. It's a mold fest back in that little hole.
I am just going to seal above the bulkhead with big gap great stuff, after masking, to serve as a vapor barrier. I'm convinced most of the off season moisture comes in here. I keep a plug in my cabin drain.
Thanks for any ideas.

 

[Bodick93]

The great stuff large gap filler worked well in filling the gap above the rod holder penetration into the cabin. I had enough mildew on everything, that it stuck and sort of physically locked in, but didn't stick aggressively. Perfect for an uneven vapor barrier.
There are still two wild penetrations to underdeck areas: fuel hose and toilet pump out penetrations. I will probably just fill them with a plastic bag. They are out of sight. I store my life jackets back there, so they will stay mildew free muuuch longer.

 

[Reefrunner]

Preventing water from getting into your bilge will make the biggest change on the interior the boat. I installed rubber plugs in the cabin floor drains to keep dirt from my shoes from getting into the the dry clean bilge.

 

[Bodick93]

I have mine plugged also, and I have an overboard anchor locker drain. The rod holder holes are the last free air travel space I have. I am considering a tub of moisture remover after I finish sealing the cabin. But I haven't done that search yet.

 

[Andy]

I have mine plugged also, and I have an overboard anchor locker drain. The rod holder holes are the last free air travel space I have. I am considering a tub of moisture remover after I finish sealing the cabin. But I haven't done that search yet.

Hi Bodick, If you are referring to a product like 'Damp-Dry' when you mentioned a 'tub of moisture remover', search here at CP for that conversation. (I gave a detailed explanation as to why they cannot/will not prevent mold/mildew-related issues in a boat). In short, 'Damp-Rid' and other 'desiccant-type' dehumidifier/moisture removers do not have the capacity to actually lower the relative humidity of a area as large as a boat cabin. We did extensive, controlled research and studies of those products when I worked in the 'building-sciences' arena for 32 years. They will 'collect' some moisture, but the amount of moisture they can collect is not enough to actually lower the relative humidity in a boat cuddy cabin or pilothouse. Keeping the relative humidity below 70 percent is one of the 5 ways (five 'ingredients') to eliminate mold/mildew growth. Preferably keeping the Rh around 50%. (For many reasons, 50% is ideal).

 

[Bodick93]

∆∆∆∆ excellent info.
I have found a great solution, and should have though of it earlier. Zero degree plastic rod holders. Now there is a smaller volume to dry at least.

 

[Bodick93]

So after a month and a half, there is a distinct difference in the feel and smell of the cabin. Still fresh, zero mold. Cost was less than 100 bucks to seal it from outside air (when door is closed).
BTW, there are 2- 6 to 10 square inch holes that lead to the anchor locker in the outer upper corners of the cabin. That is another area that needs to be sealed. I laid a T-shirt tightly under the holes (to catch potential drippage) and sort of "welded" them closed with great stuff large gap. That is, laid overlapping beads. It can then be popped out as a plug, as it really doesn't stick too aggressively.