Problem with my F225

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esfishdoc

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Hey Folks...
I've posted this over on THT... looking for ideas.. suggestions. Here is what is going on.


I just replaced the Low Pressure Fuel Pump and cleaned VST and replaced filters. Problem unchanged.

F225 680 hours... no problems until now.

Scenario: Pump up fuel bulb.. start engine... go for a ride... I can go 30 minutes or 3 hours and it runs great and hits appropriate WOT RPM.

The problem occurs when: turn engine off..... drift or anchor for about 30 minutes... or prolonged idle while drifing.... start engine... throttle up.... Waaaa... at that point the engine idles and sputters dead... will not restart... Fix: pump up fuel bulb till hard... (maybe up to 10 squeezes...seems like a lot).. start up and run just fine.

I really thought the low pressure pump seemed logical... but no... hmm.

Could it be something simple like the fuel bulb?

Suggestions?

I can always take it to the shop but it will be there a month.

As always.. thanks in advance.



Richard
 
it could be the fuel bulb for sure.. I would look for any signs of leaks , change the filter and the engin and the canister.. Never rule out the pick up tube.. maybe would be a good idea to pull it and look for problems. screan colasped, broken , vent clogged. check the simple things first . with out having checked the fuel pressure at time its doing it . this is all you can do .
 
grouperjim":19m4g20h said:
my money would be on the fuel bulb.

..........easy enough to swap out.


I would absolutely agree, but don't go with the el-chepos they have at Worst Marine.
Get a genuine Yamaha (or similar quality) item.

Also, make sure that the bulb is pointed upward (vertical) and not horizontal when you install it.
 
Megabyte":d7mvylbw said:
grouperjim":d7mvylbw said:
my money would be on the fuel bulb.

..........easy enough to swap out.


I would absolutely agree, but don't go with the el-chepos they have at Worst Marine.
Get a genuine Yamaha (or similar quality) item.

Also, make sure that the bulb is pointed upward (vertical) and not horizontal when you install it.

Mine has been horizontal since I've had the boat... hmmmm....

So today I'm into tearing into things..... I'm refusing to take this to a shop where it will sit... I'm a smart guy.. I can do this... right?

So now this is what I find looking at other things..

I've noticed a couple of times I've had an overheat alarm at idle and of course I've thought of the dreaded F225 exhaust corrosion.... and I've noticed maybe my stream is weak.. so just a bit ago I dropped the lower end and took out the water pump to find the pump had suffered some type of near total failure with some melted plastic blocking the exit passage about 75% and impellar blades ready to brake off.... (I changed everything 80 - 90 hours ago less than a year ) I'll posts some pics in a bit

While I don't think these two problems are related it makes me wonder.

If nothing else this fuel problem may have helped me find the water pump problem before total failure... like 60 miles offshore total failure...(long ride on a 9.9!)
 
Menu of the day
fuel pickup tube maybe clogged if it has a screen at the end or debris like fuel additives foil caps or other debris in the tanks

Check for water in water separator cap (Racor) or the main front fuel filter under the cowling

ASV may or may not have a spring loaded valve and can clog if present
ASV is located after the right angle fitting on top of the fuel tank and the fuel hose is attached. It appears to look like a coupler until it is removed then you can see the internal valve if present. The tank right angle fitting may have a builtin screen, too

I agree with the bad bulb and purchase a high quality one.
Check for bad fuel or vent hoses
Check for a clogged racor filter or leaks on filter head
For a 02 225 4 stroke, there are 3 filters under the cowling: front, F shaped on top of the VST and a screen filter on the bottom of the internal high fuel pump inside the VST

If hard to start, the fuel injectors may need to be serviced. They can buildup deposits and have a very small inline filter
good luck
post an update
 
I my opinion change the fuel bulb, it has a built in check they go bad. Fuel is going back into the fuel tank or you would not need to reprime.
 
Thanks for all the suggestions.

I'm formulating a troubleshooting list.... I'll get it.

Right now I'll be waiting on my waterpump kit to arrive.... see other thread.
 
I would do a thorough inspection of your fuel hose(s) and clamps. Sounds like you are running out of fuel intermittantly. Sometimes the hose can crack a little and its not obvious. If your lucky its just the bulb.
 
Harpoon":2uigfdub said:
I would do a thorough inspection of your fuel hose(s) and clamps. Sounds like you are running out of fuel intermittantly. Sometimes the hose can crack a little and its not obvious. If your lucky its just the bulb.

I agree. It sounds like you have a leak that is letting air into the system. I would check hoses, clamps, and especially around any filters/filter housings. You can even go as far as putting a piece of clear hose inline to test for air bubbles. Good luck!
 
Actually, now that I've thought about it....if its not the bulb, I would just replace all the fuel lines in the motor.

My Zuke service manual has that listed as a service item after several years and/ XXX hours I cant remember how many. Chances are they are very similar.
 
To get to anti-siphon valve: the only place there would be an anti-siphon valve is right at the fuel tank fitting. It looks like a typical barbed fuel fitting, but inside of it is a SS ball and spring, that gets overcome or pushed aside by the fuel flow. These are now standard items on all Parkers leaving the factory. Most times you need to cut the fuel hose to get it off that barb, so you’ll lose and inch or two of line.

To check the fuel tank pickup: viewtopic.php?f=8&t=7175

Fuel Primer Bulbs: FWIW, the OMC/Bombardier fuel primer bulb is the BEST made primer bulb on the market, so much so that my local Nissan and Mercury dealers install them and sell them over their own brands. To add to what Capt Kev said, the line can be installed ‘horizontally’, but to create a vacuum and suck fuel up the line, the end to the OB should be positioned higher than the other end so that the check valve works properly.
 
DaleH":3srkxqw0 said:
To get to anti-siphon valve: the only place there would be an anti-siphon valve is right at the fuel tank fitting. It looks like a typical barbed fuel fitting, but inside of it is a SS ball and spring, that gets overcome or pushed aside by the fuel flow. These are now standard items on all Parkers leaving the factory. Most times you need to cut the fuel hose to get it off that barb, so you’ll lose and inch or two of line.

To check the fuel tank pickup: viewtopic.php?f=8&t=7175

Fuel Primer Bulbs: FWIW, the OMC/Bombardier fuel primer bulb is the BEST made primer bulb on the market, so much so that my local Nissan and Mercury dealers install them and sell them over their own brands. To add to what Capt Kev said, the line can be installed ‘horizontally’, but to create a vacuum and suck fuel up the line, the end to the OB should be positioned higher than the other end so that the check valve works properly.

Just picked up a Yamaha fuel bulb for a very high local price.

I've been inspecting fuel lines and connections. Inspected the anti siphon valve and deemed it normal. I've changed all filters.

Now I'm waiting on my water pump kit from Andy and I'm hoping to get out Wednesday for a test run.
 
THE NEXT TIME YOUR ANCHORED OR DRIFTING TRY TO LOOSEN YOUR FUEL CAP THIS WILL LET YOUR TANK VENT AND SEE IF THIS WILL LET IT START.. AND REMEMBER NO SMOKING WITH THE CAP OF.LOL :)
 
I had a similar problem on a F200 couple years ago. Turns out that it was vapor locking. Yamaha has an unposted warranty repair, regardless of age. Quick trip to the service shop and have no problems since!

Trawler John
2120 SC
 
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