Quarterly wax

[sydngoose]

I’m a Collinite 845 insulator wax guy, every 3 months in Florida. I figure if I can tell time from the reflection, it's working to repel UV rays as well.

 

[MrMain22]

Can you write down the process you go through from step a-z? you've done an amazing job maintaining her pearly.

 

[Andy]

I’m a Collinite 845 insulator wax guy, every 3 months in Florida. I figure if I can tell time from the reflection, it's working to repel UV rays as well.

Your boat looks great! I'm not familiar with the 845; what do they mean by 'Insulator' wax? I see it says "Last Step Wax", does it go over other Collinite waxes? For the past decade I've been using Collinite No. 885 Heavy Duty Paste FLEETWAX , and also tried the Collinite No. 925. I prefer the 885 as it has worked well for me and is easier to use than the 925...
Here in mid-NC it's a twice yearly application..

 

[Swatski]

I stick with Rejex, ever since I tried it once a couple of years ago.

 

[sydngoose]

Can you write down the process you go through from step a-z? you've done an amazing job maintaining her pearly.

It's kind of cheating as this is a new boat. It's not hard to maintain at this point. One thing I learned is hot water does a better job than cold water.

I use a Starbright boat wash from the rub rail to the keel. When I am doing my quarterly wax, I'll add a cap full of dawn dish soap too: this cuts the and removes any "grease" or old wax. Then, I towel dry, blow dry. Normally I do NOT use dawn dish soap when I am washing the boat... ONLY for waxing to strip the old off.

After the hull is cleaned and dry, I use the Collinite 845 liquid paste in a bottle.
I put it on a foam applicator disk, and apply it in circular motions by hand. Then, I use a Dewalt 7" variable speed polisher with a microfiber bonnet (blue) on slow start, set at 1200 rpm's and work it until it's hazed.

I then have a "clean" microfiber towel that I wipe any swirls away that are noticeable. I work the "wet edge". I work from the transom up to the bow. Wait 24 hours. Let it cure. Repeat. 2 coats, 24 hours apart. Water will bead up for 3-4 months and "water line crud" will brush off no problem.

Another "time saving" purchase I made last year is a "Shurhold 955 soft yellow deck brush on their telescopic aluminum handle". It wasn't cheap, but it works amazingly well for washing boats: topside, hull sides, everywhere.

I use Starbright Deck Cleaner with PTEF on all nonskid. Then, I use woody wax once a month to maintain the non-skid. I also use Woody Wax on my aluminum: simply wipe it down with the WW. Occasionally, I will use "alumiguard" on the aluminum instead of woody wax.
Rain X on all glass.
Damp rid bag in the cabin. All windows closed and locked up between use.
303 application on all upholstery after waxing ( quarterly upholstery protection).

The boat looks and smells new.

I have tried "REJEX" for both my truck and my boats, years ago. In fact, I still have a bottle in my "polish and wax" bin. What I did NOT like about REJEX is the white haze it would dry on anything black: impossible to get off. I can not remember the "shine or protective" results from Rejex, I just remember the white "over spray" that would get everywhere and not ever come out. In fact, I just saw this bottle in my bin yesterday. Maybe I need to break it out again and try it on my wife's vehicle. I just waxed my truck yesterday. I use "Ultima Paint Guard Plus on my truck. Fantastic results!

 

[sydngoose]

Your boat looks great! I'm not familiar with the 845; what do they mean by 'Insulator' wax? I see it says "Last Step Wax", does it go over other Collinite waxes? For the past decade I've been using Collinite No. 885 Heavy Duty Paste FLEETWAX , and also tried the Collinite No. 925. I prefer the 885 as it has worked well for me and is easier to use than the 925...
Here in mid-NC it's a twice yearly application..

"Last Step Wax" simply refers to final coat. This is applicable if you are using HD or light duty rubbing compound, then a glaze coat, then polish, then wax. Wet sanding, Rubbing compound, glazing, polishing then waxing is the process for severely degenerated gelcoat with blemishes. As long as the surface is "ready for final" wax, it's just soap and water, dry then final wax. make sense?

The origins of the description as "Insulator" have to do with the etiology of the Collinite formula:
Collinite Liquid Insulator Wax was originally developed for power companies to protect against high voltage power failure, electrical fires, and explosions."
... that's just off their website. I don't know... maybe it's just marketing.

 

[Andy]

"Last Step Wax" simply refers to final coat. This is applicable if you are using HD or light duty rubbing compound, then a glaze coat, then polish, then wax. Wet sanding, Rubbing compound, glazing, polishing then waxing is the process for severely degenerated gelcoat with blemishes. As long as the surface is "ready for final" wax, it's just soap and water, dry then final wax. make sense?

The origins of the description as "Insulator" have to do with the etiology of the Collinite formula:
Collinite Liquid Insulator Wax was originally developed for power companies to protect against high voltage power failure, electrical fires, and explosions."
... that's just off their website. I don't know... maybe it's just marketing.

Yes, it makes sense.. Thank you!

 

[sydngoose]

While I was at it, I installed Dri-Dek “grey” in the pilot house. I like it a lot.

 

[Andy]

"Last Step Wax" simply refers to final coat. This is applicable if you are using HD or light duty rubbing compound, then a glaze coat, then polish, then wax. Wet sanding, Rubbing compound, glazing, polishing then waxing is the process for severely degenerated gelcoat with blemishes. As long as the surface is "ready for final" wax, it's just soap and water, dry then final wax. make sense?

The origins of the description as "Insulator" have to do with the etiology of the Collinite formula:
Collinite Liquid Insulator Wax was originally developed for power companies to protect against high voltage power failure, electrical fires, and explosions."
... that's just off their website. I don't know... maybe it's just marketing.

Since your boat is new, are you using just the No. 845 (Insulator), or are you applying it over/on top of, a first coat of wax?

 

[Swatski]

While I was at it, I installed Dri-Dek “grey” in the pilot house. I like it a lot.

What do you do to stop those middle cushions from sliding back?

 

[A-K]

looks great!

I wax mine once a year but feel that’s kind of the minimum. I only get away with it because my boat is the the marina 3-4 months then lives in a shop the rest of the year.

 

[sydngoose]

Since your boat is new, are you using just the No. 845 (Insulator), or are you applying it over/on top of, a first coat of wax?

Yes, Collinite 845 straight to the gelcoat 2 coats 24 hours apart. I was reading another forum one day, and they were talking about waxes. The one statement I took away was "Use whatever you want for waxes, but use them often". So, the Collinite may not be the best product, but it works well; I enjoy detailing my boats, so quarterly waxing isn't a chore.

 

[sydngoose]

What do you do to stop those middle cushions from sliding back?

Nothing at all. It doesn't bother me...I just use my foot and push it back into place... but now that you mention it, maybe It will start bothering me... : )

 

[Swatski]

I have tried "REJEX" for both my truck and my boats, years ago. In fact, I still have a bottle in my "polish and wax" bin. What I did NOT like about REJEX is the white haze it would dry on anything black: impossible to get off. I can not remember the "shine or protective" results from Rejex, I just remember the white "over spray" that would get everywhere and not ever come out.

I don't know if they changed their formula over the years, I have only used it in the last few years. What I started doing based on observations that appear to be similar to your experience is to wipe it off fairly quickly, if it sits for few minutes it does indeed become much harder to remove.

Not saying it is the best or better than anything else, but if applied in shade and wiped off (almost) immediately, it goes on and off easier than most waxes I know (yes, it's not a wax, lol), repels dirt better than other things I tired. Klasse all-in-one used to be my favorite, but I don;t think I reached for it once since I started using rejex.

--

 

[A-K]

Yes, Collinite 845 straight to the gelcoat 2 coats 24 hours apart. I was reading another forum one day, and they were talking about waxes. The one statement I took away was "Use whatever you want for waxes, but use them often". So, the Collinite may not be the best product, but it works well; I enjoy detailing my boats, so quarterly waxing isn't a chore.

I find waxing my hull enjoyable.

but waxing the cabin a huge chore. Got any secret ninja tricks for that?

 

[sydngoose]

I find waxing my hull enjoyable.

but waxing the cabin a huge chore. Got any secret ninja tricks for that?

I do it in stages. I’ll wax until I find an easy breaking point. I’ll do the roof, then the port side to the aft corner, then the trunk cabin,.. etc. if I just take it piece by piece, it’s not bad.
Also around the hardware, I do it all by hand. I do the topside of the boat in the boat house where I have shade all the time.
The hull I do quarterly off the lift on the trailer in the driveway.
It’s like the old adage. “ how do you eat an elephant”? One bite at a time.