Question about aftermarket console mounted T-top

[CobbFisherman]

I have a 1998 Parker 1800. I’m the second owner and it’s been garage kept it’s while life, so it’s mint.
I really want a T-top but I don’t want to drill my factory floor.
I’ve seen too many aftermarket T-top installations cause floor soft spots or pull out and cause floor damage. I want to keep my pristine 25 year old floor pristine.
Is the original console on an 1800 strong enough to support a console mounted T-top? (The type where all 4 top posts bolt to the sides of the console, there is no floor attachment at all).
Id use large backing plates on each attachment point, but I don’t want to get into rough seas and have the console crack. The console seems to be 3/8 -1/2” fiberglass with no wood core.
Has anyone successfully installed an aftermarket console mounted top? Thanks for any info you can provide.

 

[warthog5]

They have , but obviously the console has to be VERY ridged.

But you know......once the T-Top goes on......It will not go thru a 10ft tall door......Right?

 

[CobbFisherman]

They have , but obviously the console has to be VERY ridged.

But you know......once the T-Top goes on......It will not go thru a 10ft tall door......Right?

Im looking at tops that either fold down or have quick disconnects at the mounts, so it will still fit in my garage.

Would the original console on my 1800 be rigid enough with 12” backing plates behind where the top would mount?

Is there a better way to beef up the console other than backing plates?

 

[Fishaddict]

Look at TTopless tops. I considered putting it on my 1801 but than got 2120 instead. Looks like it can be trailered. Pricey but made in US with SSHardware.

 

[Puck-n-Fish]

If the floor is drilled and sealed correctly for a floor mount, I would think the risk is minimal. Slinging all that weight around attached to the console may be a bigger risk. I'd guess that they weren't designed with that in mind. Either way, the fact that you have dry storage goes a long way toward keeping things pristine.

 

[CobbFisherman]

Thanks for all of the suggestions.
Is there a way to get under floor access in an 1800 to through bolt a top to the floor?
Most of the aftermarket tops I see use self tapping wood screws into the deck and those always pull out. Even with epoxy or 5200 in holes, breaking the seal and/or pulling out is my main concern…

 

[offduty5]

I have a 1994 1800… just placed t top from Atlantic Towers in NJ… have to say extremely happy with it… and my mechanic I trust completely the way he placed it on… 8 hours of work… here are some pictures … before and after ….it makes the boat look great and the shade it provides

 

[tomc585]

I have a 1994 1800… just placed t top from Atlantic Towers in NJ… have to say extremely happy with it… and my mechanic I trust completely the way he placed it on… 8 hours of work… here are some pictures … before and after ….it makes the boat look great and the shade it provides

and the leaning post looks awsome as well! Did the make that as well?

 

[tomc585]

Console mounting a t-top may seem like a good idea but not on these. The console itself is only held down by 8 or 10 small wood screws. Also it's a 2 or 3 part console if you have the electronics box. Thats anouther 20 plus screws and a lot of points to fail. Properly installed in a solid floor with the proper hardware and sealant will last many many years without failure. Guest tend to hang/yank on to a t-top like its mounted in concrete so it needs to be done right....the first time.

 

[warthog5]

Is there a way to get under floor access in an 1800 to through bolt a top to the floor?

Yes.....You drill access holes inside the console and then install pie holes to cover them......BUT! is the fuel tank low enough? Is there a longatudle in the way? Only by doing exploratory cutting will you know.....You start with seeing if there is a piehole inside the console.....remove the lid and start looking around and use a tape measure to the side.

Honestly.....you are not in a position to install a T-top......Fold down unints look like crap.....Wanting to attach it to the console.. Hows the console mounted to the boat? Screwed down? That extra leverage will loosen it up. The fact that you have a garage not capable of having a T - top says.......Put a Bimini on it and go boating.

 

[Watergoat]

Just sold our 1801, had a t top the first owner had built. Really nice, that and my addition of hydraulic steering just made the boat . The console was attached by a sparce line of about #10 sheet metal screws. The top was screwed to the floor and the console, and really made the console stronger. If you plan to beat the boat so hard it might rip out, you need a lot more boat with a deep vee bottom. You also need to be sure your spine specialist is on speed dial.

 

[offduty5]

Leaning post made by Elevation marine out of Ocala … Florida… owner Bill is awesome…custom made… with bait cutting table that folds out of way when not using…4 rod holders… 3 cup holders… storage under flip up seat… and foot rest… made a huge difference

 

[CobbFisherman]

Yes.....You drill access holes inside the console and then install pie holes to cover them......BUT! is the fuel tank low enough? Is there a longatudle in the way? Only by doing exploratory cutting will you know.....You start with seeing if there is a piehole inside the console.....remove the lid and start looking around and use a tape measure to the side.

Honestly.....you are not in a position to install a T-top......Fold down unints look like crap.....Wanting to attach it to the console.. Hows the console mounted to the boat? Screwed down? That extra leverage will loosen it up. The fact that you have a garage not capable of having a T - top says.......Put a Bimini on it and go boating.

You’ve pretty much talked me out of it. I don’t have an access hole in my console, and I can’t get my head into the rear bilge hatch far enough to look around. I don’t want to cut out a pie hole and find that a longitudinal is in my way…
I’m on my second Bimini. The wife likes the shade, but Biminis don’t last long pounding into 2’ seas. I never ran with it open either. I expect my current Bimini to be toast by the end of the season. The plastic joints all break, then when you replace them with stainless, the next weakest link is the Bimini tube bending and kinking. I guess I just need to take the Bimini off when it’s just me fishing in rough conditions and only put it in for calm family days. It’s just a pain to take on and off and store…

 

[Andy]

You’ve pretty much talked me out of it. I don’t have an access hole in my console, and I can’t get my head into the rear bilge hatch far enough to look around. I don’t want to cut out a pie hole and find that a longitudinal is in my way…
I’m on my second Bimini. The wife likes the shade, but Biminis don’t last long pounding into 2’ seas. I never ran with it open either. I expect my current Bimini to be toast by the end of the season. The plastic joints all break, then when you replace them with stainless, the next weakest link is the Bimini tube bending and kinking. I guess I just need to take the Bimini off when it’s just me fishing in rough conditions and only put it in for calm family days. It’s just a pain to take on and off and store…

Hi CobbFisherman. Maybe try a stronger, better-made Bimini; No aluminum; no plastic fittings. Our 2520 has a Bimini that stays up nearly year-round, even when running full-bore into strong winds and seas. It is all thick-walled, one-inch stainless steel tubing, and has four extra supports (no straps). Plus, all heavy-gauged S/S hardware and mounts. Our last boat had two huge Biminis; one for the flybridge, and one to cover the 10' X 10' aft-deck. (all 1" S/S thick-wall tubing, and all S/S heavy-duty hardware). Both of those Bimini's are still in use today, and look like brand new, after 35 years!. Of the 35 years, 28 of those years we owned it, and we replaced the Sunbrella twice...

 

[CobbFisherman]

Hi CobbFisherman. Maybe try a stronger, better-made Bimini; No aluminum; no plastic fittings. Our 2520 has a Bimini that stays up nearly year-round, even when running full-bore into strong winds and seas. It is all thick-walled, one-inch stainless steel tubing, and has four extra supports (no straps). Plus, all heavy-gauged S/S hardware and mounts. Our last boat had two huge Biminis; one for the flybridge, and one to cover the 10' X 10' aft-deck. (all 1" S/S thick-wall tubing, and all S/S heavy-duty hardware). Both of those Bimini's are still in use today, and look like brand new, after 35 years!. Of the 35 years, 28 of those years we owned it, and we replaced the Sunbrella twice...

I’d be interested in something like that, thanks! What brand is it? Do you have a link to somewhere where they are sold?

 

[Andy]

I’d be interested in something like that, thanks! What brand is it? Do you have a link to somewhere where they are sold?

We've always had them custom-made. We have not tried the 'stock' bimini's as they don't seem to fit very well on some other boats that I've seen them on, and they usually use aluminum stock and plastic fittings, and they most always rely upon straps as the supports; I prefer 1" S/S supports and braces)...
Here's a short video that shows our bimini, with the boat running 30+. Parker 2520 Crossing Pamlico Sound - YouTube

On three of our boats (over a 40 year period) we used A&J Canvas in Vanceboro, NC A & J Canvas, INC - Home | Facebook . A&J does ALL the canvas work for Grady-White boats; they do good work! They of course prefer customers to trailer their boats to their shop. For our Parker, A&J came to our home, (2+ hour round-trip each time) took the measurements, went back, built the frame, came back to the house, temporarily installed the frame, and made patterns, went back to Vanceboro and made the canvas/Sunbrella, then came back and installed it all. They are a fantastic company!...
On our previous boat that I mentioned earlier, both bimini's were made by JSI/Johnson Sails, Inc in Florida in 1986. They sent me forms and diagrams to fill out, with all the measurements and such, and two weeks later shipped the bimini's to our home in North Carolina, and I installed them. I don't think they are still in business, as least not under 'JSI'.

If you don't have a convenient canvas shop, buy a 'stock-set' from one of the major suppliers, (Overton/Gander. Boat Bimini Tops | Boat Canopy | Overton's (overtons.com) Bimini Tops | National Bimini Tops then add your own S/S support bars instead of using any of the straps... Order it with 1" S/S frames, and if they don't offer S/S supports instead of the straps, make them yourself. The extra support provided by the 1" S/S bars makes the top rigid and usable even when you are under way in strong winds and rough seas.... Like I mentioned; our bimini stays up all the time. Yes, it is in the way a bit for fishing, but at my age (and at the advice of my 'skin-doctor' who is tired of picking pre-cancer blotches off my face), I prefer to stay out of the sun! ☺

 

[2801 Parker]

Don't know where you're located but if you think highly of your boat, check out Birdsall Marine in Palm Beach. Best in the business.

 

[CobbFisherman]

Don't know where you're located but if you think highly of your boat, check out Birdsall Marine in Palm Beach. Best in the business.

I already called Birdsall Marine and Actionweld. I'm in Maryland, and they're both in Florida. I was hoping that I could send them some photos and measurements, and they'd make me a custom top and ship it to me with install instructions... but I was told they don't do that. I've seen some nice designs there the front legs attach to the gunwale and the rear legs attach to the console. I'm thinking that any console attachment might not be a good idea though, so I may be abandoning the idea in favor of custom super beefy Bimini like Andy suggested.

 

[CobbFisherman]

Do you guys have any thoughts on this setup? I found this photo online, so sorry if this is one of you.

It looks like this T-top's forward legs mount to the floor and the rear legs mount to the console. This would at least reduce my floor drilling/screwing. This appears to be the same 2-piece console that my boat has. Is this still a bad idea, or would this be fairly safe in terms of not cracking my console?

 

[Fishaddict]

Go with t top. Bimini will reduce your fishability( assuming you are fishing from Parker).